Ingredients

John Woodruff looks at mild surfactants for shower gel and body wash formulations, as well as new emulsifiers, solubilisers and thickening aids for systems that respond poorly to the addition of electrolytes. Also included are ingredients for maintaining foam and boosting the effect of SLES.

Silicones are used in barrier creams, body washes, shampoos, hair conditioners and fixative products. cosmeticsbusiness.com looks at a variety of silicones – including cyclotetrasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane – plus alternatives for natural, organic and free from products.

Surfactant systems for effective shampooing, natural cleansing agents and the use of skin care ingredients in conditioners are major stories in hair care technology, while more ingredients are being launched for use in niche products, such as those for itching scalps and greying or thinning hair.

X-pressin from BASF is a new peeling system based on stabilised papain enzyme, derived from Carica papaya. It provides a gentle alternative to abrasive methods of skin exfoliation, boasts similar efficacy to salicylic acid and is ultra stable due to the use of crosslinkers.

A novel active obtained from Vervain guarantees skin homeostasis and ensures vital efficiency in various compartments. It stimulates the metabolism of fibroblasts, preserves the essential functions of the epidermis and dermis and can be used in anti-ageing cosmetics claiming multiple effects.

Sorbitan caprylate from Clariant, marketed as Veslan SC, is a sustainable, multifunctional ingredient boasting good antibacterial activity against gram-positive bacteria and fungi.

The fragrance market has bounced back with the launch of creative, high profile fragrances, reinterpretations of classics, a new generation of oriental scents and increased focus on sustainable packaging

Ingredients supplier Campo tests the antimicrobial efficacy of Lonicera caprifoleum and Lonicera japonica (honeysuckle) extracts when combined with antimicrobials glyceryl caprylate, p-anisic acid, levulinic acid and ethanol in a series of 'preservative-free' formulations

C&T ingredient suppliers offer a vast array of body sculpting materials to reduce the appearance of cellulite and stretch marks, alleviate tired legs, boost breast fullness and firmness, minimise hair growth, and address ageing hands and tough skin on knees and elbows. Key anti-cellulite actives include caffeine, Ruscus aculeatus root extract, and citrus fruit peel extracts

Silusyne is a new cosmetic ingredient containing acetyl hexapeptide-39 for reducing the appearance of cellulite. Acetyl hexapeptide-39 reduces the expression of PGC-1α mRNA, linked to adipogenesis and lipid accumulation, meaning adipocytes coming from preadipocytes treated with acetyl hexapeptide-39 have lower lipid accumulation. In addition, Silusyne improves the uniformity of the skin and adipose tissue inner organisation, both of which are linked to cellulite.