in-cosmetics preview – style with substance 2-Aug-2011

Just a few weeks after Milan fashion week it’s the turn of in-cosmetics to hit the Italian catwalk from 29-31 March. Expect the usual mix of workshops and ingredient and trend seminars (p55) plus inspiration from in-focus (p26) and the Innovation Zone (sponsored by ISP). But above all it’s about the wealth of innovative and problem solving ingredients on display on the show floor. SPC (stand S36) has a few pointers on what to look out for

A+S BIOTEC STAND Q26

This innovative company in the food industry specialises in the micronisation of vegetable raw materials, producing powders rich in antioxidants offering added value for food and cosmetics products. New for in-cosmetics are high performing micronised powders from native and exotic fruits, vegetables and cereals for a wide range of cosmetic applications. Products are preservative, irradiation and extraction residue-free and are available in 200µm, 100µm, 63µm and 40µm grain sizes.

AGRANA STAND V27

Agrana’s new range of certified organic biopolymers comprises functional ingredients promising both consumer appeal and efficacy. Agenajel 21.387 is a native organic waxy corn starch suitable for hot or cold formulation of creams and lotions and as a powder base. Quemina 21.257 is a pre-cooked organic corn starch used as an organic thickener in emulsions. Combined with xanthan gum it is said to improve the product texture and provide a soft, silky skin feel. Agenamalt 20.235 is an organic maltodextrin used as a carrier and filler.

AIR PRODUCTS STAND T75

Deposilk polymers represent a new platform of chemistries focused on enhancing product feel and functionality, and at in-cosmetics Air Products will launch the first commercial offering from this platform, Deposilk Q1 Polymer, promising a silky smooth feel while enhancing deposition of silicones and other ingredients on skin and hair. The material is said to significantly improve the deposition of silicones and active ingredients by formulations while also enhancing overall feel and sensory aesthetics.

AKZO NOBEL STAND F30

Akzo Nobel will be launching its new Structure CEL line of polymers for both hair and skin care applications at in-cosmetics. The company says it has drawn on its technology and chemistry ‘tool kit’ and applied water soluble derivatives of cellulose, a renewable raw material, to the development of more sustainable, non-ionic rheology modifiers designed to deliver potential improvements in efficiency and compatibility compared with competitive ingredients. The polymers can be used in a variety of formulations, including as foam boosters and rheology modifiers in shampoos, rheology and texture modifiers in conditioners and rheology modifiers for hair styling gels.

APF AROMES & PARFUMS STAND D50C

This French fragrance house specialises in customised fragrances but will introduce a collection of three fashion themes for 2011/12 in Milan. With Vintage apf revisits the spirit of the 1950s-80s with lightness, humour and grace, seeing a resurgence of sub-cultural groups like rockabilly and swing. Less is More is the notion that simplicity and clarity lead to perfect design; the simplicity of style makes it timeless. Finally Duos en Parfums promises surprising shocks or close connections between two fragrances and two heroes of cinema.

APTAR STAND C70J

An unusual face at in-cosmetics, Aptar Beauty + Home is a packaging supplier and will present Irresistible, described as revolutionary pump technology that guarantees the safety and integrity of preservative-free cosmetics. Irresistible uses Ultragate technology, combining two levels of barriers against external contamination, firstly against potential contamination in the air and secondly against retro-contamination via contact of the pump nozzle with fingers. Two versions are available: atmospheric and airless.

AQUA BIO TECHNOLOGY STAND M28

ABT will launch marine ingredient Aquabeautine XL, a patented protein solution derived from the hatching fluid of salmon roe, or red caviar. It contains zonase, said to be a unique protease which unlike similar enzymes is highly stable and gently removes dead skin cells without affecting living cells. It is described as a biospecific exfoliant proven to render comparable results to common hydroxy acids without skin irritation while also delivering moisturising and anti-ageing effects. In vitro and in vivo data is available and the material is said to be easy to formulate and suitable for various cosmetic applications and even for very sensitive skin.

ARCH STAND F50

Promising ‘a taste of the real Brazil’, Arch Personal Care Products will introduce PhytoBrasil. Through a partnership with CentroFlora, this line of Brazilian botanicals features sustainably sourced extracts comprised of botanicals indigenous to Brazil and a significant part of the country’s culture. Arch uses bioreactors to grow plant cells as a new source of sustainable botanicals.

ATLAS FILTRI STAND H34

Equipment supplier Atlas Filtri will introduce Naviglio Estrattore, a rapid extractor for the dynamic solid-liquid extraction of active ingredients, colouring substances and fragrant components from plant matrices (flowers, leaves, berries, buds etc). Advantages over other extraction methods are listed as: speed; extraction at room temperature; high quality extracts; highly standardised compounds in the extract; high production rate; and greater extract stability over time. As the extraction system does not involve heating, substances that are susceptible to heat do not deteriorate. Naviglio’s principle is: ‘The generation of a negative pressure gradient, using a suitable solvent, between the outside and inside of a solid matrix containing the material to be extracted. This is followed by a sudden reinstatement of the initial balanced conditions, which leads to the forced extraction of those compounds that are not chemically linked to the main structure making up the solid.’

BASF & COGNIS STANDS L40, L30, L31

Following the acquisition of Cognis by BASF, the companies say that by combining their product ranges, technical skills and market expertise they are now even better placed to help customers meet the latest consumer needs. In UV protection a ‘best in class product portfolio and tailored solutions for different consumer needs’ is promised. And as part of its new Sensitive Skin concept the company will offer formulated products ranging from baby shampoos and aftershave balm to skin care lotions.

BAYER MATERIALSCIENCE STAND G40

Bayer will present polyurethane dispersion Baycusan C 1000, a film forming polymer capable of boosting SPF as well as having a good skin feel, stabilising emulsions (particularly important for sprays) and providing sun care products with good water resistance. New tests are said to confirm the dispersion’s versatility and an ability to improve the protective effect of some UVA/B filters as well as UVB. New findings also endorse the material’s film forming properties and ability to produce sunscreens that are comfortable to wear.

BERTIN STAND G50

Established in 1936, French company Bertin supplies natural oils, butters and waxes to the cosmetics and nutriceuticals industries and says it is continuously identifying innovative new sources of raw materials from seeds, nuts and fruits. New for 2010/11 are: hibiscus (moisturising) and sandalwood nut (anti-ageing) virgin oils; broccoli (silicone-like) and cranberry (balancing) organic oils; chia (anti-inflammatory with 70% GLA content) refined oil; tea and rooibos, goji and vanilla macerates; flower essential waxes providing elasticity and pigment fixation; and natural exfoliates from certified organic berry seeds in three particle sizes.

BIOVELOP STAND P13

Swedish company Biovelop will introduce its Avenacare range of natural active oat ingredients. The company has invested over t20m in developing its patented, chemical-free fractionation process, using high quality, locally sourced, non-GMO oats. The Avenacare oat beta glucan molecules are said to be capable of penetrating the intercellular lipid matrix of the skin to the deepest layers of the dermis, stimulating collagen synthesis, reducing wrinkles and helping restore vitality to the skin. It can be used to relieve skin irritations and to accelerate healing of minor wounds and burns.

BLUESTAR SILICONES STAND R80

Exhibiting with its Italian distributor Biophil, Bluestar Silicones will present its full range of silicones for cosmetic use. The company says its Mirasil product range offers benefits for hair and skin including a silky, soft feel, shine, spreadability and protective properties. The company is aiming to become a key worldwide supplier.

BRB INTERNATIONAL STAND R12

BRB will present itself as a new player in silicones for personal care exhibiting independently at the show for the first time. The company says it has long experience of customising a versatile range of polymer fluid blends and is now launching a complete range of silicone crosspolymers. BRB says its focus is on innovation and a problem solving approach in its markets but also claims to offer greater flexibility and quicker turnaround than its competitors.

CELLNTEC STAND V21

CELLnTEC is a biotech company specialising in the use of advanced in vitro systems (eg for stem cells or 3D models) in combination with original testing methods to enable novel claims for active ingredients. The company has developed novel methods to evaluate the effect of actives directly on the progenitor stem cells, and in vitro models are established using precision culture media designed to select particular cell populations (eg stem cells) and encourage cell behaviour accurately mimicking the in vivo situation. The powerful 2D and 3D in vitro approaches will be presented for the first time at in-cosmetics.

CLARIANT STAND N40

Sophisticated answers to the most common beauty and lifestyle issues affecting the youth market are promised by Clariant with its new youth concept. Solutions to acne, oily skin, hydration, dandruff and sun protection integrated into skin and hair care formulations will be the focus while formulators can also give decorative cosmetics a high level of shine and brightness to reflect the joie de vivre of youth. The concept covers a broad range of ingredients suited to the sensitivity of young skin, including those with natural origins, for optimal mildness and skin friendliness, says Clariant. Highlights on the stand will include vegetable-based products, shine enhancing emulsifiers, rheology modifiers that provide good skin sensorics and sulphate-free rinse-off agents. The idea is that these will address young people’s concerns for the use of ‘healthier’ products with fewer or no preservatives, more natural ingredients and lower environmental impact. Ingredients will include Hostapon SG, an amino acid surfactant for sulphate-free rinse-off products; Silcare Silicone WSI, a w/o, w/s emulsifier; Velsan SC, a 100% natural, synergistic aid to support a move to lower preservative levels; and the Aristoflex range of skin care polymers.

COLONIAL CHEMICAL STAND G50

Colonial will present its Poly Suga Mulse D series [INCI: Decyl-glucoside sorbitan oleate crosspolymer] of naturally derived, non-ethoxylated emulsifiers as a greener formulating option for producing natural, low energy emulsions that are safe for customers and the environment. Because they are non-ethoxylated, Poly Suga Mulse D series are said to be particularly useful in 1,4-dioxane-free formulations. Suggested for natural-based creams and lotions, these mild products give low viscosity emulsions making them suitable for spray-on sunscreen lotions. Derived from sugar, corn and olive oil, these emulsifiers are >97% natural with a Green Star rating of 9.71 to 9.88. Colonial will also feature products from its Poly Suga Mate, Poly Suga Betaine and Poly Suga Nate lines of surfactants and betaines from natural starting materials.

COPTIS STAND D91

Exhibiting with its new Italian agent ITM Agency, Coptis will demonstrate new functions and features of its Coptis Lab software package: MOS calculation; MSDS printing for raw materials and finished products; and customisable printing of cosmetic regulatory files etc. The database now includes over 8,500 cosmetic raw materials and is updated three times a year.

COSMETOCHEM STAND N30

Citrolumine 8, first launched by Cosmetochem at in-cosmetics Asia last year and one of the winners of the China Personal Care & Cosmetics Innovation Awards 2011, will now launch at the Milan show. Based on liposomal encapsulated citroflavonoids extracted from citrus fruits, this new material is said to brighten skin tone, fade age spots and increase overall skin luminosity. In vitro and in vivo support is available. Citroflavonoids have also been shown to be potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agents.

COSMITALY INTERNATIONAL STAND T20

Masks&Patches creator Cosmitaly says it was the first to use a team of chemists and scientists to create a transdermic line of cosmeceuticals for the intensive treatment of skin. At this year’s in-cosmetics it will launch its new Meso-Patches for a mesotherapy-like effect using enzymes as the active. It will also introduce Stem-Patches with vegetable stem cells promising a regenerating anti-ageing effect.

CREATIONS COULEURS STAND K59

Exhibiting on the Eico Novachem stand, Créations Couleurs will demonstrate its Fiflow multifunctional actives. These are said to be able to oxygenate skin, function as muscle relaxants and dermal fillers and improve skin metabolism and skin renewal. They are based on fully fluorinated perfluorocarbons, fully inert substances due to their strong intramolecular chemical bonds. The idea behind the Fiflow range is to create products with different penetration properties so that different issues can be addressed. Fiflow BTX has been developed as an anti-ageing active with a wrinkle filling effect.

DELFIN TECHNOLOGIES STAND S92

Delfin Technologies will launch the MoistureMeterSC Compact, a novel instrument for measuring skin hydration values. The new instrument is claimed to combine Delfin’s proven and protected measurement technology with ease-of-use and wireless technology. Delfin says the product establishes a new level of reliability and convenience for skin hydration measurements.

DISHMAN STAND N96

Dishman says it was one of the first companies in Europe to Obtain NATRUE certification for its cosmetic raw materials Dusoran and Cholesterol NF. In hair care Dusoran is recommended for colourants, conditioners, relaxing and perming as well as combination products, providing volume, gloss, protection and good sensory properties. In skin care it is said to offer moisture control and controlled transdermal transport as well as protection, convenience and sensory properties. Cholesterol NF is suggested for skin creams and lotions, providing moisturisation, emulsification and emollient properties, enhancing the skin’s natural barrier.

DOW CHEMICAL COMPANY STAND C40

Dow will highlight its novel conditioning technology for hair care applications. EcoSmooth Silk Conditioning Polymers are said to offer exceptional benefits without the use of silicone in shampoos. Their performance is also said to represent a benefit to formulators looking to address the issue of build-up or foam stability. In addition Dow Microbial Control will promote its diverse portfolio of preservatives made up of established and approved solutions, including Neolone and Kathon, while Dow company Angus will share application testing that demonstrates the performance benefits of AMP-Ultra PC amino alcohol in a range of hair styling formulations.

DOW CORNING STAND M30

New from Dow Corning are CE-7080 Smart Style Emulsion and MQ-1640 Flake Resin. Style meets function with CE-7080, an amino silicone elastomer emulsion designed to give consumers styling benefits including curl retention, frizz control, hair bounce and flexible hold while also conditioning, leaving hair soft, smooth and manageable. Recommended for leave-in conditioners, mousses and combing creams. In lab tests a mousse containing 1% was smoother than hair treated with a formulation containing an acrylate copolymer and in curl retention tests, it performed better than or equal to a commercial benchmark and an acrylate copolymer when used at 1% and 2% in a mousse formulation and at 2% in water. MQ-1640 is a blend of two silicone resins in flake form that creates a breathable, water repellent film, claimed to set a new standard in long lasting benefits. In colour cosmetics, it enhances colour intensity and shine, and in tests simulating the natural movement of skin, foundations containing it remained smooth and homogeneous after stretching and washing. It is 100% active and solvent-free so formulators can select their own carrier. Also, in sunscreens it is said to potentially improve SPF due to good compatibility with sunscreen actives and improved wash-off resistance.

DR STRAETMANS STAND L79

Dr Straetmans will be introducing a palm oil free glyceryl stearte citrate based on rape seed oil. The ingredient, dermofeel GSC palm oil free, uses local feedstock, processed in Europe, which guarantees a supply of material from established agricultural areas and avoids long transportation routes for starting materials from south-east Asia to Europe.

DSM STAND F40

Regu-Fade from DSM is a new skin brightening ingredient making its global debut in Milan. It promises to even and brighten skin tone using pure, nature-identical resveratrol, a potent antioxidant found in red grapes and associated with various health benefits. Regu-Fade is said to downregulate key steps of melanin biosynthesis in vitro, resulting in noticeably brighter, younger looking skin. It is said to attenuate skin pigmentation via multiple mechanisms, from initial signalling, gene expression to melanin production and final melanosome transfer. DSM will also present the latest scientific findings regarding stem cells for skin care in a conference session.

DUPONT STAND U50

New data will be available on the efficacy of DuPont de Nemours’ Glypure glycolic acid in penetrating the hair shaft to produce moisturising benefits including increased softness, breakage resistance and lubricity. DuPont Polymer Powders Switzerland will launch a second generation of its Gotalene RS400 bio-based exfoliating powder, compliant with Ecocert. This year the company will again feature the Sensory Bar on its stand to highlight new scrubbing textures for Gotalene inspired by the flavours of Italy. DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products will have new data on Zemea propanediol, a natural alternative to petroleum-based glycols and glycerin, suggesting it can boost preservative efficacy in aqueous-based products.

EARTHOIL PLANTATIONS STAND M79

Earthoil Plantations plans to unveil its aqueous products range, which includes Earthoil Waters and new Eartharome and Treattarome items. The certified organic Earthoil Waters are said to deliver a high concentration of essential oil in water to impart a strong authentic fragrance to a variety of cosmetic applications.

EASTMAN STAND B35

Eastman will introduce its GEM Technology, a green manufacturing process that uses the US EPA’s 12 principles of green chemistry. The company is using the technology to launch ingredients in the colour cosmetic and skin care markets in Q1 2011, with future product extensions into other markets and applications. GEM uses enzymatic technology and closely controlled manufacturing conditions to make esters, eliminating the high temperature and strong acids traditionally required in their manufacture.

ECO OIL ARGENTINA STAND D80

This producer and manufacturer of jojoba oils and derivatives is launching Jojoba Hydro F70 hydrogenated jojoba oil, the end product of the complete hydrogenation of jojoba oil. This white, odourless derivative is said to provide superior oxidative stability, excellent emolliency and effective moisturisation to hair and skin. It is also recommended for improving stick strength in colour cosmetics and antiperspirants without increasing wax content. Its melting point is 70˚C and the iodine value is <2.0, making it one of the few commercially available high melting point wax esters of botanical origin. As with jojoba oil, there is no triglyceride component.

EVONIK STAND M40

Evonik says that the 2011 show with its focus on sustainable beauty provides the perfect showcase for its recently implemented enzymatic esterification process. Evonik has already implemented this technology in the production of low viscosity emollient esters, resulting in a 60% reduction of its carbon footprint.

EXSYMOL STAND F35

Exsymol continues to explore scientific anti-ageing approaches for face and body care, introducing innovative concepts such as neurolipolysis, lipolysis stimulated by neurotrophic actives (Glutrapeptide) or total protection against photoageing (OTZ 10). The metabolic activation and tensile property of multifunctional peptoid Alistin will also be highlighted. The company describes its patented peptidomimetic Methiopeptide as its ultimate innovation, and this is now an intra-cellular target which is being considered to protect against oxidation. Methiopeptide is said to be able to penetrate to the heart of the cell to offer a protective role.

FARAVELLI GROUP STAND P60

Under the slogan ‘Fall in love with us’, distributor Faravelli will present its wide range of cosmetic materials including natural thickeners, preservatives, humectants, minerals and active ingredients. The company will also launch nutriceutical actives for the beauty from within market. Suppliers CP Kelco and Gfn Selco will share the stand.

FLORIDA FOOD PRODUCTS STANDS G50, E40

Florida Food Products will introduce IMO Fair for Life Fair Trade certified aloe raw material products that meet fair trade and socially responsible production and handling through the supply chain as defined by the IMO standards. Certification standards include: fair prices; fair trade premium; socially responsible labour conditions; environmental performance (optimisation of natural resources); human rights; and community reinvestment.

FRUTAROM STAND R28

Frutarom will present its red microalgae cosmetic ingredient Alguard. Produced using a green production process, this is supported by clinical data and is said to have an immediate enhancing effect on the skin’s appearance just one hour after first application. Alguard is said to form an active shield on the skin, acting as a triple guard solution for a variety of cosmetic applications: it protects against irritants and oxidation damage; protects the skin’s immune cells from UVB radiation; and also counteracts bacterial adhesion. It is available as a premium preservative-free and Ecocert approved version and also as a phenoxyethanol preserved version.

GELITA STAND C75

Gelita promises beauty from within with Verisol. This bioactive collagen peptide produced from native collagen is said to have excellent bioavailability that can substantially increase skin moisture and prevent the formation of wrinkles by stimulating skin metabolism and the formation of new collagen. Taken orally Verisol is said to influence the skin’s metabolism directly from the inside. It can be incorporated into a variety of product formats, from capsules and tablets to dietary supplements and products such as chocolate and instant coffee.

GREENTECH STAND T40

Greentech and Phytocos will exhibit opposite their Italian distributor Respharma. Phytocos will show new African oils with targeted cosmetic properties as well as a range of butters with a soft texture said to facilitate spreading and penetration. Greentech will introduce a new active, Setiline, promising an effect against skin keratinisation related to ageing and the elasticity of the epidermis. There will also be new data on Silidine demonstrating anti-redness, and on Somitine demonstrating complexion radiance.

HUNTSMAN STAND M16

Huntsman says it will offer formulators solutions to help them meet the latest market trends and help them drive more value from their brands. The company says it is renowned for the special effects it can bring to everyday essentials such as shampoos and body lotions.

HYDRIOR STAND V27

Hydrior polyglycerol esters, claimed to make skin feel fantastic thanks to their marked substantivity, have achieved Ecocert approval. Depending on the type, they have a non-roughening to smoothing effect on the skin and regulate humidity. They are also said to be non-irritant as they don’t denature the skin’s proteins. In natural cosmetics they are suggested as liquid and PEG-free emulsifiers, solubilisers and thickeners.

IBR STAND R28

IBR will present IBR-ProPhyDerm, a proprietary complex of actives promising skin benefits for dermal relief and beautification of sensitive, discomforted skin. IBR says a clinical study shows the material delivers equivalent activity to 1% hydrocortisone. The company will also share new clinical evidence for its IBR-Phyto(flu)ene skin lightening actives line. These are claimed to reduce pigmentation through at least four different routes: direct inhibition of melanin synthesis; inflammation reduction; antioxidant; and UVA/UVB protection. IBR will also reintroduce its Dormin materials for slowing down intrinsic ageing by slowing cell proliferation through capturing and transferring plant dormancy to skin.

ID BIO STAND C50M

This French producer of natural, custom made ingredients will introduce a new range of titrated extracts with identified molecules.

IMCD STAND B60

IMCD presents SMART5 as a solution for formulators looking for a cyclopentasiloxane (D5) replacement. The hydrocarbon-based material was developed through IMCD’s collaborative research programme with several Italian universities and is said to be high quality yet cost effective. A wide range of molecules was investigated and the formulation chosen is said to provide an optimum technical balance of volatility, solids wetting and tactile performance. IMCD says SMART5 has been successfully trialled for a variety of cosmetics applications and in most cases can substitute D5 with only minor modifications to the formulation.

IMPAG STAND R28

Corolea Bio is a combination of two plant extracts (olive leaf and lady’s mantle) standardised in specific active fractions claimed to offer a highly efficient fat burner. Impag says a new mechanism of action has been identified that acts on the cell’s energy centre, particularly within adipocytes – the mitochondria via a specific receptor. Corolea Bio is said to boost the combustion of lipids stored in the adipocytes creating a fat burner effect. In a clinical test a gel with 2.5% active used twice a day for two months decreased average thigh circumference by 0.3cm after 28 days and 0.7cm after 56 days. The ingredient is Ecocert certified.

INDENA STAND Q39

Indena will introduce Xilogel, a tamarind polysaccharide with a structure similar to hyaluronic acid and the capacity to complex water, said to be ideal for deep hydration products. Clinical results demonstrating the material’s strong hydration and anti-ageing properties will be presented at a seminar on 30 March. Also new is Omegablue, a bilberry seed oil obtained by CO2 extraction from bilberry seeds. Total fatty acid content is over 80% and it is said to have a unique balanced ratio of polyunsaturated omega 3 and 6 fatty acids. The major components are linoleic and alpha linolenic acid. It is said to offer restructuring functions on skin and hair and a pleasant sensorial feel. The company will also be promoting its Zanthalene material, a CO2 extract from the Chinese spice Sichuan pepper.

INTERNATIONAL GROUP (IGI) STAND Q11

New from IGI is Sebapet, a natural vegetable petrolatum replacement said to use a unique combination of vegetable oils that mimic the fatty acids and esters found in natural skin sebum. It also uses a natural gelling technology that IGI says has not been incorporated into a petrolatum replacement before and enables the material to maintain its integrity when used in emulsion systems. Claimed to have significantly different aesthetics to conventional petrolatums while maintaining occlusive properties, Sebapet is recommended for creams, lotions, lip care products, body washes and more.

INTERPOLYMER STAND C70H

The latest Syntran novelties will be the focus at Interpolymer, including the new cationic polymer Syntran PC 5330 based on olefin-graft technology. The company will also emphasise its paraben-free grades of Syntran polymers.

IRB STAND H36

A new green biotech ingredient specifically designed to maximise the self-protection of the skin from external stresses will be presented. Based on Marrubium vulgare cultured stem cells, it contains forsythoside B, said to be a potent inducer of skin endogenous defence mechanisms by activation of Nrf2 transcription factor. Forsythoside B is a member of the phenylpropanoids family of natural substances physiologically designed to protect the plants from environmental stresses. IRB will also take part in the in-focus sustainable beauty feature and will present a seminar on 30 March.

KCC SILICONE STAND P16

KCC Silicone is the silicone-based speciality chemical division of South Korea’s KCC Corporation and is announcing the commercialisation of a volatile dimethicone as an alternative to cyclopentasiloxane – SF1000N2. With a low molecular weight dimethylpolysiloxane structure, this non-cyclic but volatile diluent is said to be an ideal non-reactive delivery agent for use in demanding cosmetic formulations, with a unique sensory profile that gives improved skin wetting, and quick flash-off leaving skin with a dry, luxurious silky feel. As a non-cyclic yet volatile vector, SF1000N2 is said to bring a valid and sustainable alternative to D5 in cosmetic formulation.

KOBO STAND E50

Powder and dispersion specialist Kobo will present: non-nano TiO2 and ZnO composites, dispersions and powders; Ecocert approved products; and polymethylsilsesquioxane microspheres.

LABORATOIRES PROD’HYG STAND l50

Through cooperation with a group in Burkina Faso, Laboratoires Prod’Hyg will introduce a hydroglycerinated extract of spirulina, a blue-green alga with cosmetic properties including anti-ageing and remodelling. The ingredient is also said to help fight nutrition but is not well known locally so its development should help improve communication about its properties, with Laboratoires Prod’Hyg building a sustainable commitment through a commercial exchange with this African community.

LANXESS STAND S30

Lanxess Distribution GmbH is a 100% subsidiary of global supplier to the cosmetics industry Lanxess Deutschland GmbH. On show will be the product range including Solbrol preservatives, isoparaffins as a spreadability enhancer and moisturiser, diols as multifunctionals, the antioxidant Vulkanox BHT Food Grade, active ingredient for insect repellence Saltidin, and Baycusan C, a new polymer as film former and sensory additive.

MIBELLE BIOCHEMISTRY STAND E70

Mibelle will present new material LIPerfection said to boost lip volume thanks to a pungent flavour compound extracted from mustard shoots. The roots are particularly rich in Sinalbin, a plant compound that increases the capillary blood flow, causing redness and a feeling of warmth when applied to the skin and mucous membranes. In a clinical trial, a cream with 2% LIPerfection induced an immediate 10% increase in hydration compared to a placebo and clearly increased lip volume. Laser Doppler measurements demonstrated that skin capillary blood flow was increased by the cream applied to the inner forearm; maximal effect was 15 minutes after application and was absent in the control cream.

OLVEA STAND R51

Oils and fats specialist Olvea will introduce a new line of naturally processed shea butter derived products. In the last few years, Burkarina, Olvea’s production unit in Burkina Faso, has developed strong ties with women farmer’s organisations and now offers a line of shea butter derived sustainable products with guaranteed full traceability.

OMYA STAND T23

Omya will be promoting its Omyacare natural calcium carbonates, which are recommended for use in eye shadows, face powders and foundations to add brightness, whiteness and opacity. Over the past year Omya has expanded its production of Omyacare to additional sites in Asia.

PRINCIPIUM STAND D77

Swiss company Principium will introduce new active ingredients and three additions to its BiosControl line of preservatives: Synergy CBD, CBI and CBH. The company will also reveal the results of its cooperation with US company Graminex in the development of a water soluble cosmetic non-allergen pollen extract. The ingredient is a clear powder obtained from a non-solvent process and is rich in enzymes, amino acids, vitamins and co-factors.

RAHN STAND K71

Rahn describes its new Slimexir active ingredient as a silhouette refiner that effectively combats excessive fat. The composition comprises X-Melt, a synergistic blend of methyl xanthines, extract of artichoke (Cynara scolymus) and the polysaccharide levan. Studies demonstrate the ingredient’s ability to: prevent formation of new adipocytes; reduce lipid accumulation in adipocytes; stimulate degradation of existing fat; trigger fragmentation of lipid droplets; and lead to a significant reduction of abdomen volume.

SEDERMA STAND l60

Among the new materials on show at the Sederma stand will be Kelisoft, a hair growth minimiser suitable on both beards and underarms, slowing hair growth and refining its diameter. Its anti-inflammatory properties also provide a soothing sensation after removal. Two versions have been developed for deodorant applications, one water soluble and one oil soluble. Sederma will also present MatrixylSynthe’6, a new member of the Matrixyl range designed to fill in wrinkles, on the forehead and crow’s feet, for visibly smoother, plumper skin. It is said to stimulate six major constituents of the skin matrix and the dermal-epidermal junction and ensure and optimal architecture on the tissue. Meanwhile Wonderlight offers to reduce skin pigmentation irregularities or lighten skin. Based on a botanical it acts on both melanocytes and their associated keratinocytes to help reduce pigmentation disorders. It reduces the epidermal melanin unit cross-talking and blocks the signalling pathways involved in melanin synthesis. Wonderlight is preservative-free and is approved for Japan.

SENSIENT STAND S71

With a high level of expertise in carbon black-based products, Sensient will be promoting its Covarine Black WS 9199, a highly concentrated aqueous dispersion of carbon black (D&C Black No2) for hair and cosmetic applications. The material promises excellent stability in time and temperature.

SEPPPIC STAND T60

In keeping with the Sustainable Beauty theme of the show, Seppic has imagined a new 100% green solution to prevent the whitening or soaping of emulsions on application. The company will also promote its solutions for sensitive skin, make-up removal, tailor-made skin care for all ages, stress reduction and Ecocert approved preservation.

SETALG STAND R50

Natural marine ingredient specialist Setalg says it will be launching innovative concepts that will revamp professional cosmetic treatments. It will be proposing a quick and easy peel-off that acts in less than one minute.

SILAB STAND Q40

Multifunctionality is the focus at Silab. Its new natural active Vitalayer, obtained from Verbena officinalis (common vervain), is claimed to guarantee skin homeostasis by maintaining the metabolism of epidermal and dermal cells at an optimum level, regulating various biological pathways and providing multiple solutions for imbalances in the skin. Through cross-functional and lateral action Vitalayer promises to strengthen the skin’s barrier and stimulate dermal metabolism, regenerating and hydrating the skin, smoothing the micro-relief and reducing wrinkles. This is said to be achieved in the epidermis by stimulating differentiation of the keratinocytes and favouring the synthesis of intercellular lipids, and in the dermis by stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts and favouring the synthesis of the matrix components. Vitalayer is suggested for inclusion in all core anti-ageing formulations.

SISTERNA STAND N50

Sisterna will introduce a variety of formulating concepts with its sucrose esters covering skin care, decorative cosmetics and cleansing. Concepts include: a simple manufacturing technique that allows the production of gels that turn into milk when diluted like a make-up cleansing gel; mother and baby bedtime lotion; and leave-on foams such as self-tanning foams.

SONNEBORN STAND H50

in-cosmetics will see three new additions to the SonneNatural all-natural petrolatum range. SonneNatural Select - Jojoba Oil Enhanced is rich in omega 9 fatty acids and is said to offer smooth application with medium cushion and high gloss. SonneNatural Select - Meadowfoam Seed Oil Enhanced is rich in omega 6 and omega 9 fatty acids and again promises smooth cushion and medium gloss. Finally SonneNatural Select - Extra Virgin Olive Oil Enhanced is rich in omega 3, 6 and 9 fatty acids and moisturises skin and improves elasticity.

THE STEPHENSON GROUP STAND V39

The company recently signed a deal with New Britain Oils making it the first personal care product manufacturer in the UK to use Roundtable of Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO) certified sustainable palm oil to manufacture a soap base that meets RSPO supply chain certification requirements. The sourcing of palm oil from sustainable stocks is one of the biggest issues facing soap manufacturers worldwide and it in-cosmetics The Stephenson Group will be promoting its 100% RSPO sustainable palm oil soap. The company produces 15,000 tonnes of soap base a year, exporting worldwide to customers who create finished soap bars by adding fragrance, colour and additives.

SOPHIM STAND R55

Squalane producer Sophim will launch Organic Biophytosebum at the show. Based on a three-in-one concept (active + natural + functional), this material promises sensorial benefits and high efficacy in restoring the lipidic layer of the stratum corneum through its composition of squalene, wax ester and sterols that represent 41% of the unhydrolysed surface of skin. Through green chemistry Sophim says it has obtained a combination of olive squalene and wax ester with low molecular weight that enhances spreading and penetrating properties similar to volatile silicone. This deodorised, transparent and stable material is said to improve the dispersion of pigments and TiO2 as well as perform as an active carrier thanks to good skin compatibility and absorption.

URAI STAND T35

Italian chemical and laboratory equipment supplier URAI has established a new personal care division. Founded in 1948, URAI says it is now able to serve the cosmetics market with new and innovative products. The company has also joined LEL, the European Alliance of Independent Technical Distribution Specialists, which represents C&T market suppliers. LEL is a joint venture comprising six independent privately owned distributors: CH Erbslöh, Kemiropa, Lake Chemicals and Minerals, Lavollée Chimie, URAI and Zeus Química.

X-RITE STAND Q01

X-Rite will demonstrate new methods in colour measurement technology. The company will demonstrate how some of the world’s largest cosmetic companies are now applying advanced quality control techniques to precisely measure and control formulas for colour and appearance.

WHY YOU SHOULDN'T MISS IN-COSMETICS

David Chant is managing director of Mascara Plus, a contract manufacturer based in Milan and specialised in the development of mascara and colour cosmetics for some of the world’s leading cosmetic brands. He explains why he wouldn’t miss the show.

How long have you been visiting in-cosmetics?
I’ve been visiting the show since 2001, so for the last ten years.
Why do you attend?
My main reason for attending is to meet our suppliers and discuss projects we’re currently working on. But I also visit with a view to sourcing new products that can help us develop our business. I go there to meet potential new suppliers and understand what new ingredients or services exhibitors are offering that could potentially work in our products too. In the past I’ve made some really interesting new contacts and hope to do the same again this year.
How does in-cosmetics benefit your business?
Exhibitions like in-cosmetics are real time and cost savers for companies like us. In just one day I can meet up with all our raw material suppliers to catch up on activity as well as forging contacts with potential new partners. All of these meetings go towards helping us grow and develop Mascara Plus.
What are you particularly looking for when you visit the show?
Our business is mascara so I’m always on the hunt for new ingredients that could help us develop the next big thing in the industry. Innovation is really important and exhibitors at in-cosmetics have always got lots of new cutting edge products on their stands, which is another key reason for attending.