in-cosmetics 2012 will take place in Barcelona, the sunshine capital of Europe. So it’s no surprise that the focus of this year’s in-focus feature will be on solar beauty, one of the most challenging market segments in C&T. Jacques Sebag sets the scene
Some say that innovating in sun care is like formulating in extreme conditions. Here, all the usual formulation and marketing constraints – stability, allergy, sensitivity, regulation, ageing process, competition, sensorial properties and consumer education – seem to apply with acute strength. And in the coming years we might expect these challenges to be even tougher. With the SPF race topping 50 in Europe and now in the US, brands will need to find new ways to differentiate themselves from one another, which means more daring textures and super active anti-ageing formulae.
A host of products launched this summer in Europe illustrate this well. Brands have been introducing products that are not only great UV protectors but are also powerful summer boosters that enhance the summer experience – appealing textures that facilitate better product application and hence better protection.
Ambre Solaire reintroduced its cult sun tanning oil in 2010 and then launched a new SPF 30 version in the summer of 2011. The brand also launched Clear Protect +, a protective body spray with SPF 50. High protection indices were also claimed by Nivea’s Invisible Protection Spray and Eucerin’s Sun Spray. Even Vichy has engaged sensually with a sun care oil boasting SPF 40.
Another illustration of a more mature segment is the development of mass market sun care products dedicated to sensitive skin. Pure and Sensitive by Nivea claims to be the first children’s product range dedicated to sensitive skin in this area. Meanwhile Mixa, a brand well known for its baby care products, has launched the first high protection sun care range totally dedicated to sensitive skin in order to minimise risks of allergy.
On another level, the protection of cell DNA and stem cells means sun care products can claim to be anti-ageing, thereby creating a bridge with classical beauty products. Specifically adapted to phototypes I and II, the Very High Protection Emulsion by Avène claims efficient protection of DNA. The brand has worked in collaboration with the CEA in Grenoble to study how SPF 50 cream is capable of reducing the appearance of characteristic markers of DNA mutation induced by UVA and UVB. The results have been published in Photochemistry and Photobiology and represent a milestone in establishing a correlation between SPF and DNA protection. Vichy claims to be the first brand to prove the efficacy of its products in protecting skin stem cells.
Clearly hyper-segmentation, highly sensorial textures and products with strong anti-ageing benefits mean sun care products can be classed as genuine beauty products. Everything would be perfect if part of the technologies that have allowed some of the most interesting innovations in the past few years were not being questioned.
In recent years nanoparticles, for instance, have opened up new perspectives in terms of feel and transparency. However, the ingredients are now prompting concerns across the industry. In the US, the Environmental Working Group urges consumers to avoid mineral-based sunscreens sold as powders or sprays because they could inhale nanoparticles, with unknown consequences. In France, until further studies are conducted on skin penetration and inhalation risks, the AFSSAPS does not recommend either sunscreens containing nanoscale TiO2 on damaged or sun induced erythema (sunburn) or sunscreens containing nano TiO2 in spray forms on the face and in closed rooms. Last year Kobo even launched a non-nano UV filter in response to consumer concerns.
SPF boosters could also be another source of intrigue. These are ingredients that help achieve sufficient SPF whilst minimising the use of both mineral and chemical sunscreens. Eventually they may also be found to absorb the UV range, which means they would literally act as sunscreens without being subjected to the same approval methods.
Quasi-drugs providing protection against skin cancer on the one hand or sophisticated anti-ageing beauty products on the other... the identity of sun care products is anything but simple. They are challenging to both formulation laboratories and marketing services – the more questions arise, the more brands need to communicate with consumers and prove both their ability to be transparent and their credibility.
To navigate through the complex maze that is solar beauty, the in-focus feature at in-cosmetics 2012 will provide a full scale innovation platform that has been designed to help industry players evaluate the latest developments and anticipate future trends. The programme will include a dedicated scientific conference, a panel discussion transcending scientific and marketing boundaries, a Solar Trail allowing visitors to easily identify innovations on the show floor, a special feature area to trigger new ideas and refresh your views on solar beauty and a dedicated section in the Innovation Zone (run by Mintel Beauty & Personal Care). Between now and April, SPC magazine will follow the in-focus feature as it develops, sharing ideas and information so you can make the most of the forthcoming event.
in-cosmetics will take place from 17-19 April 2012 at Barcelona’s Gran Via exhibition centre. For further details visit www.in-cosmetics.com.
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