Alexandre Rio & Manasi Chavan introduce a new peeling system based on stabilised papain enzyme that provides a gentle and efficient alternative to abrasive and irritating methods of skin exfoliation, providing an innovative solution for skin desquamation
Skin exfoliation improves the appearance of skin, and while young skin experiences this process naturally as epidermal desquamation (ED), older skin needs a helping hand.
ED involves removal of the topmost cornified layer of the epidermis, removal of dead, scaly corneocytes and renewal of the skin surface. Consequently young cells migrate from the basal layer to the surface of the epidermis, resulting in an even skin tone. ED supports a youthful appearance by enhancing keratinocyte proliferation in the basal layer and differentiation into corneocytes. Chronobiological ageing disturbs epidermal desquamation, promoting the accumulated dry, aged, thickened skin.
The corneocytes are connected by proteinaceous structures, so application of proteases could trigger the process of skin exfoliation. Concerns about using proteases in the cosmetics industry include skin irritation, penetration, sensitisation and instability. Since proteases will target the proteinaceous mortar between the adjacent cells, their specific action results in gentle exfoliation.
With a novel, crosslinking technology (patent pending) and enzymatic stabilisation expertise, researchers at BASF Beauty Care Solution overcame the limitations of currently available exfoliation agents.
The high molecular weight, crosslinked papain polymer retains protease activity. This form of papain functions at the surface of the skin. Further crosslinking of the polymeric papain with low molecular weight crosslinkers minimises its autodegradation and yields a thermostable form of the enzyme.
Extensive research led to the development of X-pressin (INCI: Water, carbomer/papain crosspolymer, 1,2 hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, algin), advanced, healthy glow enhancing technology that provides a gentle alternative to traditional, abrasive, irritating methods of exfoliation.
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