Facial awareness

Published: 4-Jun-2006

Advances in ingredient technology and patents covering the area offer many ways of treating the complex organ that is the skin.


Advances in ingredient technology and patents covering the area offer many ways of treating the complex organ that is the skin.

If a person exposes their face to the sun, frowns, laughs or otherwise expresses emotions, then the face will develop expression lines, character lines, laughter lines, crows feet and visible signs of ageing, collectively known as wrinkles. In 1941 Maison de Navarre wrote that if it were possible to create a product to remove and eliminate these lines then the inventor would reap a rich reward.

Various approaches are available for achieving this desirable result. Improving skin moisture content keeps it plump and supple, increasing collagen and elastin content provides a similar result, removing dead skin cells with keratolytic agents is said to stimulate new cell proliferation and there are many other suggestions for preventing wrinkle formation and for their long-term improvement.

However, the emphasis now is on rapid reduction, even if the effect is only transitory. This is achieved by three main mechanisms: application of a film forming material that tightens skin as it dries; prevention of facial muscle contractions by interfering with the 'switching' mechanism that causes muscle movement; and softening the appearance of wrinkles by the use of light diffusing materials and make-up.

Looking back 30 years US Patent 3,949,741 (1976) describes a pressure-sensitive adhesive appliance that is applied tightly to wrinkle-prone areas of the human face so that the skin under the appliance is flattened and smoothed. The appliance remains in place for at least four hours and is removed in a manner to strip dead skin cells from the skin. Moving on, US Patent 4,938,969 (1988) describes a topical formulation comprising ascorbic acid, tyrosine and zinc sulfate formulated in a hydrophilic ointment or cream base, which is claimed to stimulate fibroblast proliferation and promote the production of collagen and elastin, thereby promoting the supporting role of the associated dermal tissues and reducing the depth and intensity of fine lines and wrinkles.

Cause and effect of skin blemishes are well described in US Patent 5,554,597 (1996), which claims use of topical compositions comprising a 2-hydroxycarboxylic acid and related compounds to alleviate or improve: skin lines; blotches; blemishes; nodules; wrinkles; pigmented spots; atrophy; precancerous lesions; elastotic changes characterised by leathery, coarse, rough, dry and yellowish skin; and other skin changes associated with intrinsic ageing or skin damage caused by extrinsic factors such as sunlight, radiations, air pollution, wind, cold, dampness, heat, chemicals, smoke and cigarette smoke.

Thereafter patents making claims to improve wrinkles appeared very frequently and were based on all manner of ingredients from botanical extracts to polypeptides.

Facial expressions are the result of muscle contractions. The contraction-relaxation cycle is due to var-iations in the concentration of cytoplasmic calcium. In the presence of calcium, the contractile proteins of striated muscle have an ATPase activity which provides the energy required for contraction. Conversely, the relaxation of striated muscle takes place when a new ATP molecule binds to the contractile proteins. USP 6,908,925 (2005) claims that contractile muscle fibre plays an essential role in the formation of wrinkles, and that modulating the neural motor influx and controlling the contraction of muscle fibres serves an essential function in the formation of wrinkles. The patent then describes various potential agents that are active inside the cell that have an effect on the release of the intracellular calcium reserves or inhibit the formation of the calcium/calmodulin complex. Of those described the phenylalkylamines, verapamil and nimodipine are preferred.

USP 6,974,799 (2005) describes pharmaceutical, personal care and cosmetic compositions containing a tripeptide and a tetrapeptide useful for treating visible signs of ageing including wrinkles, stretch marks and dark circles, and USP 6,919,306 claims a method for skin care by orally administering an ingestible carrier and N-acetylglucosamine obtainable by hydrolysis of chitin by which the moisture and tension of skin can be improved and the rough skin and fine wrinkles can be prevented or ameliorated.

Optical effects

Using make-up to cover wrinkles has always been a reasonably successful method and there have been advances in the way this is done. A paper presented at the 2005 IFSCC Congress, Optical rejuvenating makeup using an innovative shape controlled hybrid powder, was given by Katsuhiko Yagi, who described how the optimum powder shape for covering the appearance of wrinkles was derived.

USP 6,586,013 (2003) discloses an encapsulated optically-activated particle that is able to both scatter and absorb light in a diffuse manner in order to reduce the visual perception of skin imperfections, including cellulite, wrinkles, shadows and skin discoloration. The material described is available from Lipo Chemicals Inc under the trade name Lipolight OAP/PVA. For this approach Grant Industries offers Gransil PSQ-W, an aqueous suspension of polymethylsilsesquioxane powder that has a spherical shape and an average particle size of 5 microns. It is readily water dispersible with a soft, powdery feel and is an effective light diffusing agent for wrinkle correction. Also intended to improve the appearance of wrinkles by light diffusing technology is Gransil ORB [INCI: Dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, polysilicone-11, nylon-12, silica, PEG-10 dimethicone, polysorbate 40, isohexadecane, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate]. It also absorbs sebum, giving a matt appearance to the skin, and increases skin moisture.

Instant gratification

Returning to instant wrinkle reducers, there have been numerous launches of new ingredients said to be effective in this regard. Argireline from Lipotec [INCI: Hexapeptide-3] was described in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science (IJCS) [2002, 203 - 330] as a safe alternative to Botulinum neurotoxins for inhibiting facial muscle activity. Botulinum toxins paralyse by selectively blocking acetylcholine release at the neuromuscular junction. This is achieved by cleaving a protein called SNAP-25. Argireline inhibits neurotransmitter release by forming a protein complex with the calcium ions and, as well as the instant effect, regular topical application of 3% of Argireline solution in a suitable carrier is said to reduce wrinkle depth by 27% within 30 days. The solution is 0.05% active and the material is also available as a powder, but is much more difficult to handle in this form.

Two peptide-based products from Pentapharm are Vialox and Syn-Ake. Vialox is pentapeptide-3 and paralyses facial muscles within 10 to 15 minutes of application. Syn-Ake is dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, a tripepetide said to mimic the activity of the Temple Viper and this again inhibits muscle contractions and appears to smooth facial skin. GranTox from Grant Industries is a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane, polysilicone-11, aqua, barium sulfate, aminobutyric acid, ginseng extract, portulaca extract, centella extract, isohexadecane, ammonium polyacryl-oyldimethyl taurate and polysorbate 80. It is said to: combine the filling properties of silicone elastomer technology with a synergistic array of actives to relax the skin by reversible inactivation of nerve electric signal transmission by ion channels; to optimise optical diffusion and utilise the viscosity of silicone and organic film-formers for extended coverage; to provide soothing botanical extracts for a more youthful appearance; and to have a light diffusing action to hide and soften wrinkles.

A natural-based material that attenuates facial muscle contractions is Gatuline Expression from Gattefossé. It is extracted from the upper parts of Acmella oleracea and studies have revealed a list of key compounds present. The important ones are isobutylamides of polyenic and polyenynic acids including spilanthol, which is the molecule mainly responsible for the activity of Gatuline Expression. LIBiol's Dermotenseur claims to combine the hydrating action of quillaja and the firming action of kigelia to act synergistically for a more notable and durable skin toning and tightening effect. Quillaja is rich in flavonoids containing reducing sugars such as glucose, galactose, xylose and rhamnose, making it an excellent hydrating agent. The peptides contained in the kigelia extract have a mechanical tightening action on the skin and are said to improve cellular reactivation.

Film forming materials

Over centuries a number of astringent film forming materials have been used with varying degrees of success for both long-term amelioration and short-term hiding. Gum Arabic, casein, sodium silicate, albumin, bovine serum, alum and various film formers are typical examples of the latter. Wrinkle reduction by skin tightening film formers is an instant and well proven method and is still very popular with many more materials now available.

Pronalen Flash Tense from Provital is a protein hydrolysate obtained from germinated wheat seeds. Many other hydrolysed protein materials are available and most will have a tightening effect as well as moisturising properties. Silab's Liftiline and Tensine are protein materials from Triticum vulgare with instant smoothing claims. A third material from this supplier is Polylift. Described as a polymer of Prunus amygdalus dulcis (sweet almond), it is said to provide a more elastic film with a higher spreading capacity than other hydrolysed proteins.

A mix of hydrolysed wheat proteins produced by enzyme hydrolysis and the polysaccharides dextran, dextrin and mannitol is the basis of Vegetens from Sensient LCW. The wheat protein is strongly absorbed to the skin surface forming a homogenous film, and on drying it has a tightening effect. The polysaccharides have strong moisture retention properties and hydrate the epidermis, increasing its thickness and rendering it more supple. NutriLayer from Eastman Chemical Co is extracted from non-GMO organically grown rice. It contains rice bran wax, squalene and phytosterols, plus tocopherols and tocotrienol and is suggested as a means of delaying the onset of wrinkles as well as for rapid skin improvement.

Liftessence from Lucas Meyer is an extract of the tree fern Cyathea cumingii that grows in New Zealand. The extract contains a high molecular weight polysaccharide in association with a highly branched polysaccharide that forms an elastic film, which immediately tightens the skin when topically applied at 2% in a suitable carrier. Rahn suggests Liftonin, a natural astringent obtained from oak apple with salicylic acid and minerals from a millet extract, which is said to gently tone and tighten the skin. Also from oak, in this case the cork oak Quercus suber, is Suberlift from Vincience. The extract contains both hydrophilic and hydrophobic polymers that give an instant smoothing effect on topical application when used at 3% in the final product.

Laboratoires Sérobiologiques' Argatensyl is composed of high molecular weight proteins extracted from Argane and rendered water-soluble. This has an immediate tightening effect on skin. The INCI names are Argania spinosa kernel extract and sodium cocoyl glutamate. The same company also supplies Liftensyl [INCI: Soy protein phthalate], a film forming polymer with an instant effect. Pepha-Tight from Pentapharm [INCI: Pullulan and algae extract] is derived from micro-algae produced under laboratory conditions to ensure consistency and purity. When used at 5% in a suitable base the tightening effect is virtually immediate. In-vitro tests show a protective effect on human skin fibroblasts against oxidative stress. They also show that Collagen-1 synthesis from normal human skin fibroblasts can be increased. Also from Pentapharm is Pentacare NA, a mixture of galactomannans obtained from the seeds of Ceratonia siliqua (locust bean gum) combined with hydrolysed protein from wheat gluten. It forms a film on the skin and following the evaporation of the water the film contracts giving a tightening effect, thus reducing the perception of wrinkles.

NAB Siberian Ginseng Extract from Arch Personal Care is a 25% active, aqueous extract consisting primarily of complex polysaccharides and associated glycoproteins from the root Eleutherococcus senticosus. When applied to the skin in a cosmetic vehicle these compounds form a film on the skin that will tighten and smooth the treated skin immediately. This perceivable phenomenon is due to physical changes in the polymer structure of the polysaccharides as they dry on the skin and it is claimed the sensation of smooth skin will last for hours without flaking or leaving the skin feeling overly tight.

Synthetic polymers are also useful: ISP offers Aquaflex XL-30 [INCI: Polyamide-1], a high molecular weight water soluble polymer with a rapid tightening effect. A detailed study of the action of this material and other polymers is available from the supplier and this describes many different test protocols and ways of quantifying the results. A mixture of polymer and protein material forms the basis of Seppic's Sesaflash, which is recommended for use at 10% for immediate rejuvenation of ageing skin. It is a combination of acrylates copolymer, VP/polycarbamyl polyglycol ester and hydrolysed sesame protein with PG-propyl methylsilanediol.

Not quite the same as wrinkle removal but still designed to give rapid improvement to the eye area, Eyeliss from Sederma is principally a mixture of hesperidin methyl chalcone and dipeptide-2 with palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3. It is said to decrease capillary permeability and the formation of oedema in the eye area, to restore tissue elasticity and firmness and to promote an increase in contraction of lymphangions, necessary to ensure lymphatic drainage in the eye area. Hesperidin in association with glucose also forms the basis of Glycosyl Hesperidin from Hayashibara and this is also recommended for the treatment of dark circles under the eyes.

The suppliers of all the ingredients described have provided evidence of the efficacy of the materials named. Most instant wrinkle removers also hydrate the skin and give some longer term improvement. It is also possible to formulate single products that combine instant effect with continued improvement, provided the material is regularly applied. The nature of the vehicle is also important and this may vary from a simple aqueous lotion to a gel or an emulsion. Whatever the choice of product form, one or more of the ingredients named will be found suitable for this application.

Prevention vs cure

Instant wrinkle removers are required because of age and neglect. There are many ingredients offered to cosmetic formulators to delay their onset but they have to be used as a preventative rather than a cure, though long-term use will usually result in an improvement. First must come UVB and UVA protection. Second is the use of suitable free radical scavengers, and many antioxidants are available from synthetic and natural sources. Improving the structural proteins of the dermis and epidermis is the claimed function of many ingredients and constant moisturising is as important as other preventative measures.

A few of the more recent offerings include RonaCare VTA, a blend of rutinyl sulfate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and l-hydroxy proline in liposome form. This multifunctional material is clamed to stimulate the synthesis of collagen, protect hyalauronic acid against enzyme degradation and to stimulate the production of glygosaminoglycans to plump out skin and increase its firmness. Regu-Age from Pentapharm is primarily a mixture of oxido reductases, glycine soja protein and hydrolysed rice bran protein and both in-vivo and in-vitro studies show it to be effective in removing dark circles under the eyes and reducing the appearance of lines.

Vincience offers a number of peptides claimed to provide long-term improvements to facial skin including Collaxyll [INCI: Hexapeptide-9], a collagen peptide consisting of exactly the same sequence of amino acids as human collagen. In the skin it works as a soluble messenger that rapidly activates regeneration to the skin and is greatly beneficial following UV or physical damage. Corum Inc also produces various peptides including Corum 8806 [INCI: Palmitoyl hexapeptide], which is claimed to stimulate fibroblast proliferation, impart a firming effect and to smooth out wrinkles while strengthening the skin's natural barrier function.

Riboxyl from Lucas Meyer [INCI: Ribose] is said to stimulate oxygen production within cells and the increased energy available means that cells recover their metabolic energy potential and the fibroblasts are able to stimulate the synthesis of macromolecules of dermis which restructures skin, erases wrinkles and enhances elasticity. Silab's Pulpactyl is rich in oligosides from Southernwood and has been developed to compensate for the adipose tissue loss associated with skin ageing. Pulpactyl provides a lipofilling effect by stimulating adipogenesis and the swelling of fat cells. In vivo tests show an increase in the density of adipose tissue in the face and an improvement in tone and elasticity of the skin. Symglucan from Symrise is a solution of oat beta-glucan in water, the molecular size of which is small enough to penetrate skin and this stimulates collagen growth.

There are many materials designed to protect the skin from environmental factors. No doubt regular use from one’s early 20s onwards will effectively delay the onset of wrinkles but a quick fix is always going to be required for those who didn't invest in the long-term benefits of UV and antioxidant protection, as well as those people who laugh a lot.

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