Fragrance – protect & survive

Published: 18-Aug-2011

Lisa Hipgrave explains why IFRA actually makes the world smell sweeter

Lisa Hipgrave explains why IFRA actually makes the world smells sweeter

For those on the inside of IFRA and IFRA UK, the benefits provided to the sector are obvious. To others, or those new to the sector, the achievements may be less clear.

So, in IFRA UK’s first year under our new banner, since we switched from calling ourselves the British Fragrance Association, it’s a timely moment to assess the association’s achievements. I’d sum these up as offering reassurance about standards, protection of materials and the safe use of fragrance within a consistent, global context. Let me explain.

IFRA has worked hard to defend the industry and ensure the safe use and enjoyment of fragrance. Those outside the industry, but with a genuine passion for fragrance, often misunderstand what it is we do and why. This has happened because IFRA instigates the thorough assessment of fragrance materials and in some cases it has been necessary to suggest banning or restricting the use of certain fragrance raw materials.

Our view is clear on this. As an industry, and as an association that provides the voice of that industry in the UK and worldwide, we have a clear mission to defend and promote the sector, which includes defending as far as possible our self-regulatory status. The only area of weakness as far as I’m concerned is that we have perhaps failed to involve and inform everyone who should understand what it is we are trying to achieve and have delivered to date.

Far from banning certain materials and changing irrevocably some fragrance compounds of old, IFRA has been protecting these materials.

One example is oakmoss. This would have disappeared if it hadn’t been for IFRA. The EU would have abolished its use. In fact, thanks to our intervention, oakmoss and other materials are still being used as part of the palette of 3,000+ materials which perfumers can employ in their creative art.

There are restrictions on the use of some substances but we believe strongly that these are justified when balanced with the safe enjoyment of fragrance for all. Where fragrances have been discontinued it is most likely because they no longer had the following they once enjoyed. Fragrance is highly susceptible to the vagaries of fashion, so it’s no surprise to those in the industry that fragrances come and go as trends dictate. Fragrance materials are also susceptible to threats from natural and commercial crises. We reported earlier this year that the industry is being hit by record price rises with some ingredient prices quadrupling since last year. The droughts and flooding that have hit many countries including China, Brazil, India and Indonesia affect the crops which supply many of the ingredients used by perfumers. We see no immediate end in sight to the price and supply problems which our members face and will continue to deal with.

Supply and price issues apart, IFRA supports perfumers by fiercely defending the continuing use of certain fragrance raw materials. The Scientific Committee for Consumer Safety (SCCS), the advisory group to the EU Commission, and other groups may receive representations or concerns from lobby groups suggesting a ban or restriction on fragrance ingredients. When that occurs, IFRA globally and the Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM) review the substance, gather views from perfumers and form a group to review the situation. We then instigate extensive testing if required and, if these tests reveal a positive result, further detailed tests are undertaken to investigate the tipping point and establish the level at which the substance could be safely used by most people.

The IFRA Scientific Committee reviews the findings of this research, makes recommendations and submits the evidence to the EU Commission. We recommend the parameters for safe usage.

What makes IFRA a strong and respected organisation is the fact that it leads the way by issuing its carefully researched standards. IFRA’s safety dossier, which recommends holding usage of a material to a certain level, is then issued as one of IFRA’s standards. And these standards are not mere guidelines; they are mandatory for IFRA members.

The benefits are obvious. If one of my members, or an IFRA member anywhere in the world, develops a perfume, it is deemed safe not just in the UK but across Europe and beyond. For global brands this has hugely important and positive implications.

And for consumers and health professionals it provides a guarantee that the highest possible safety standards are being adhered to.

Finally, for perfumers, a restriction can spur them on to doing what they do best. Any perfumer relishes a creative challenge and can do so, thanks to IFRA standards, in a safe and assured fashion using materials from a palette of 3,000+ substances.

Some believe that labelling rather than restricting materials is the way forward. We don’t believe labelling helps, not just because people don’t necessarily read labels but also because some people may become sensitised to some ingredients. Instead, our aim is to ensure materials are used below the level at which they readily cause sensitisation. We believe that this is the sensible and safe approach.

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