Gender-neutral and make-up free: 4 formulations meeting teen trends


The following formulations channel teen-friendly trends, including those for products that are gender neutral, eco-friendly, transformative and enable a ‘no make-up make-up’ look

Cosmetics Business has selected formulations that fit a variety of youth-led beauty trends.

These are: an Illuminizer Stick for a subtle ‘make-up free’ look; a Gentle Cleansing Gum that provides a unique transformative experience; a gender neutral Augmented Neutrality cream with anti-artificial light activity; and a water-free Jelly Wash, which appeals to environmentally-aware youngsters.

Formulation 1

In a backlash against the heavily made-up look of recent years, consumers are embracing the subtle ‘no make-up’ look, enabled by millennial-targeted brands like Glossier. Judicious use of highlighter is a key component of this look and Innovacos’ formulation for an Illuminizer Stick fits the bill nicely.


Melt phase A. Keep under stirring. Add premixed phase B under gentle stirring. Add phase C and mix. Pour into a lipstick mould.

Formulation 2

With experience trumping mere consumption for many young people, product performance alone is not enough to differentiate your product from the competition’s. This suggestion from Croda is for a Gentle Cleansing Gum, which provides a unique sensory experience. It can be applied to a dry face, before transforming into a gentle cleansing milk upon the addition of water.


Mix preservatives (sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate) in water until dissolved. Add glycerine then disperse xanthan gum. Wait until fully dispersed then add Arlacel LC. Heat to 80°C. Separately combine phase B and heat to 80°C. Add phase B to A with fast stirring. At 40°C add phase C.

Formulation 3

Part of Gattefossé’s #ConnectedGenerations concept, this gender-neutral day cream, called Augmented Neutrality, appeals to generation Z consumers with its anti-artificial visible light activity and innovative ‘thready’ texture.

Formulation 4

Young consumers’ preference for products that are better for the environment (such as organic and vegan beauty) is well-known, and with water usage an ever-increasing consideration, products made using floral essences in lieu of water, like this blue Jelly Wash suggested by Clariant, should perform well.

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Mix phase A until gel is formed while heating to 85°C. Mix phase B. Add phases B and C little by little to phase A to create an evenly mixed gel while heating to 85°C. Melt phase D at 85°C. Mix phase E. Pour phase D and E into phases A, B and C and pour into jars while hot. Let it cool down before use and keep refrigerated.

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