Givaudan and Nikko Chemicals grab gold at in-cosmetics Asia

By Julia Wray 2-Nov-2017

The winners of this year's in-cosmetics Asia Best Ingredient Awards have been revealed

A skin rejuvenation active, that also maintains skin microbiota, and a superabsorbent polymer modified for cosmetic use have been crowned winners at the Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Awards at in-cosmetics Asia.

In the actives category, Givaudan Active Beauty won with Revivyl, an ingredient developed from a chlorophyll-free plant called Orobanche rapum and the result of three years of R&D.

“We are very excited about this product because it is the very first time that we bring something that is multifunctional, working on both stem cells and skin microflora – as you know these are both very hot topics in our industry,” Fabrice Lefèvre, Marketing and Innovation Director of Givaudan’s Active Beauty business, told Cosmetics Business.  

“We were the first one to deliver an active ingredient that is able to protect the entire skin microflora while stimulating the entire regeneration of the skin epidermis by trigging stem cells.” 

He continued: “In terms of regeneration of the skin you stimulate stem cells and they will give birth to new skin cells that will migrate, differentiate and regenerate the upper layer of the skin. You increase biological exfoliation by up to 244%; you basically renew your skin cycle.

“But if you renew the skin you need to make sure that the skin microflora, which is very important for your health, stays protected – you don’t want to get rid of it.

"The rationale behind this ingredient is to protect the microflora while regenerating the superficial layer of your skin.” 

Lefèvre noted that Revivyl provides clinical results in just two weeks, which then ramps up after a month, meaning that consumers see and feel results very soon after beginning regular product usage. 

Skin care saviours

Silver in the actives category was awarded to Seppic for its soothing and blemish-reducing ingredient Subligana, while Rahn won Bronze for Defensil-Soft, a neuro-balm for over-reactive skin. 

The winner of the functional ingredients category was Japan’s Nikko Chemical, which won for Aron NT-Z, a polymer that can hold up to 20 times its dry weight in water and release it when applied on skin.

Speaking with Cosmetics Business, Nikko Chemical’s James Seguerra said: “It [Aron NT-Z] took five years to develop and it is actually a joint development between Nikko Chemical and an industrial polymer firm that has expertise in gelling technology and adhesives.

“They came to us because they wanted a product for cosmetic application; they wanted our expertise in emulsion stability and creating cosmetic emulsions.”

Explaining the function of Aron NT-Z, Seguerra added: “The common issue with this type of polymer is that – like a baby’s diaper – once you add water it swells and swells, which is very disruptive to the emulsion.

"What we did was control the absorption capacity of the polymer, so that it doesn’t destroy the emulsion stability but still gives that refreshing texture.

“What is unique about this polymer is that it has this fresh feel during application, but the finish is elastomeric – it has a matte feel. The combination of both is unique.”

Form and function

Evonik Personal Care won Silver in the functional ingredients category for Tego Solve 90, a PEG-free and preservative-free solubiliser for perfumes and essential oils.

And the final winner was IFF-Lucas Meyer, which was recognised with a Bronze award for its Siligel natural gelling agent with a silicone-like skin feel.

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The Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Awards took place on 1 November at in-cosmetics Asia, which is based in the BITEC expo centre in Bangkok, Thailand.

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