How to formulate with skin care's most exciting new actives


From balms and serums to micellar oils, June’s finished skin care product formulations are based on some of the most exciting new active ingredients launched in recent months

Cosmetics Business rounds up the latest ingredients in skin care.

Here are four formulations based on newly launched active ingredients:

Formulation 1

Pamplemousse Splash Wake Up Serum is a concept demonstrating three hero ingredients from Clariant’s portfolio: versatile rheology modifier Aristoflex TAC; Plantasens Olive LD, a fast-spreading natural alternative to silicone; and a detoxifying active ingredient called BioDTox.


Add phase A one at a time to water; mix until fully hydrated between each addition. Add phase B to A one at a time; mix until uniform.

Add phase C to AB to achieve desired colour; mix until uniform.

Check pH and adjust if needed to pH4-4.5.

Formulation 2

Skin Vital Micellar Oil from Vytrus Biotech showcases the supplier’s award-winning Olea Vitae PLF ingredient. It is said to leave the skin revitalised, repaired and nourished.


Mix components of phase A. Add B on A until completely dissolved. Premix C and homogenize with turrax. Add C into A+B and homogenize again.

Formulation 3

With Rahn’s new radiation protection active ingredient Radicare Gold, this Personal Skin Guardian can be applied day and night.


Mix phases A and B while stirring. Sprinkle phase C on the surface; wait until the powder is fully hydrated and mix thoroughly until completely smooth. Heat to 70°C while stirring. Mix phase D. Heat to 70°C while stirring.

Add phase D to phase ABC while stirring. Homogenise. Cool to 40°C while stirring. Add phases E to G separately. Homogenise then cool down to 25°C while stirring.

Formulation 4

With more brands adopting a positive approach to the ageing process, the focus is on improved product sensory for an optimally pleasurable application experience.

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This Well-Aging Sensory Balm is based on Solabia Group’s 3Dermilyn, which adds a unique texture to products as well as anti-ageing benefits.

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