ISP’s new synthetic peptide enhances skin’s natural UV defences

Caspaline 14 boosts caspase-14 expression

ISP has developed a new technology aimed at helping the skin’s own natural barrier function protect against UV rays, but unlike a topically applied sunscreen the new material does not rely on an active UV blocker for protective properties.

Caspaline 14 is a synthetic peptide designed to target and boost the expression of caspase-14, a cysteine protease linked to skin softness and suppleness. By boosting caspase-14, which has been linked with cornifying epithelial tissue, such as skin, and influencing terminal keratinocyte differentiation and formation of the skin’s barrier function, ISP says Caspaline 14 may help limit skin damage from UV.

Studies are said to show that skin deficient in caspase-14 exposed to UVB radiation experiences significantly more damage, supporting the theory that caspase-14 is an important component in the skin’s natural UV defences. An ex-vivo examination of tissue stressed by UV radiation with skin pre-treated with Caspaline 14 was said to produce fewer apoptotic cells and fewer cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (UVB-induced DNA damage) compared to a control. The ingredient is also said to help boost the expression of filaggrin, the precursor of the skin’s Natural Moisturising Factor (NMF).

“This is a truly new approach to helping consumers slow the signs of skin ageing caused by sun exposure,” says Joel Mantelin, ISP’s global marketing director skin care. “Boosting the skin’s natural defences not only has beneficial effects on UV protection but also skin softness.”