Resolving inflammation with an organic certified active

Sensitive beauty has become a popular topic for cosmetics, driven by an increased number of consumers claiming to experience skin irritations

Sensitive beauty has become a popular topic for cosmetics, driven by an increased number of consumers claiming to experience skin irritations.

80% of women using skin care regularly do so because it makes their skin feel better, while 55% only because it keeps their skin looking young(1). Skin sensations are thus an important driver of usage, all the more important in mature skins.

Indeed, in a qualitative research run in 2017 by Gattefossé, skin comfort was the n°1 concern for 60 years old and more women. Itching, prickling or heating sensations are some words that were used to describe discomfort chronically felt with age ("Our skin calls us to order”, testimony of a 60-70 years old woman).

Exploring the mechanisms of inflammation resolution in young and mature skin

Every day our skin is subjected to multiple aggressions such as sun or environmental pollution. Along with time assaults, they cause inflammation and skin damages.

The resolution of inflammation has been so far underestimated in skin care strategies, although it is the prerequisite condition to effective tissue repair.

It requires the production of a specific family of lipid mediators called Specialized Pro-resolving Mediators (SPMs) able to turn off the inflammation cycle.

In collaboration with Ambiotis, a specialist of the resolution of inflammation, Gattefossé carried out an investigation to understand the underlying mechanisms leading to non-resolved inflammation induced with age.

A different program of inflammation resolution in aged skin has been uncovered as well as a deficiency of the synthesis of pro-resolving mediators (2).

Faced with these observations, Gattefossé has identified Gatuline Skin-Repair AF as its best active ingredient to induce the synthesis of SPMs in young and mature skins, thus offering potent pro-resolving active ingredient.

Increased ability to resolve inflammation

Gatuline Skin-Repair AF demonstrated its ability to mobilise several metabolites leading to an augmented production of final pro-resolving mediators.

The production of specialised pro-resolving lipid mediators (i.e. lipoxins and their precursors) has been measured on skin biopsies from young and old donors, challenged by PMA-mediated inflammatory stress.

Results showed a boosted synthesis of those molecules, able to turn off the cycle of inflammation, in both young and mature skins.

Moreover, their optimal synthesis in young skin avoids that inflammation becomes chronic and contributes to the prevention of inflamm’ageing.

Better armed to fight inflammation, the skin regenerates more efficiently. Gatuline Skin-Repair AF increases keratinocytes differentiation and ensures optimal epidermis reconstruction.

As a result, cell cohesion and barrier function are improved as demonstrated in vivo, and the return to cutaneous homeostasis of stressed or damaged skin is accelerated.

Local and organic sourcing

Derived from locally sourced cotton thistle (Onopordum acanthium), Gatuline Skin-Repair AF is an organic certified hydroglycolic extract. Its phytochemical signature (sesquitertene lactones, caffeoylquinic acid derivatives) supports its high level of efficacy.

The plant grows in the heart of France, in an area neighbouring the Auvergne Rhone-Alpes region where Gattefossé is located. The farm is specialised in the cultivation of organic aromatic and medicinal plants and managed in the respect of nature and biodiversity.

Onopordum acanthium is cultured following an ecological farming method called conservation agriculture. Known for 20 years, this method is a set of agricultural practices with the final objective to maintain or enhance the agronomic potential of soils, while ensuring regular and performing production (minimum tillage, permanent soil cover with crop residues and live mulches, crop rotation and intercropping).

As part of its CSR policy, Gattefossé is committed to help its partner in the development of durable agricultural practices.

"Gatuline Skin-Repair AF offers a novel and promising strategy to fight inflammation. By focusing on the final resolution of inflammation rather than on decreasing it, chronic inflammatory skin disorders, especially those appearing with age can be durably controlled.This active ingredient will be suitable for all facial or body care products supporting inflamed, damaged or sensitive skins," - Laurie CANEL, Product Marketing Leader – Active ingredients


References

1. Source: The benchmarking company, survey on 8381 US Women, 18yo and more, January 2018

2. Lopez-Gaydon A., Baillif V., Bertholon C., Van Goethem E., Demarne F., Dubourdeau M. and Bechetoille N., Differential profile of pro-inflammatory/pro-resolving lipid mediators in acute inflammation model using young and old skin biopsies, Dermatology Research, 2019

Companies