Active ingredient's efficacy found to be more rapid and intense than retinol with no side effects
Peptilium is a new active ingredient from French ingredients maker Silab, which is composed of biopeptides obtained from cranberries.
A global anti-ageing product, it has been demonstrated to boost skin radiance while attenuating fine lines and wrinkles.
The natural biopeptides that make up Peptilium reinforce epidermal barrier function by restoring keratinocyte proliferation (Ki-67 synthesis up +86% at 0.5%) and differentiation (loricrin synthesis up +49%); they also improve the quality of both the dermal-epidermal junction and the dermal matrix (at 0.1% it increases collagen network production by +54%).
Targeted transcriptomic analysis, performed by Silab, further showed that, out of 34 genes involved in skin homeostasis, 76% are deregulated as we age, but the use of Peptilium normalised the expression of 81% of these deregulated genes.
In efficacy tests on volunteers, after 21 days of application, Peptilium used at 2% improved radiance in both Caucasian (reflection +12%; pink colour +17%) and Asian (luminosity +6%; olive colour -5%) subjects.
It also presented an anti-wrinkle effect in Caucasian (negative volume -22%) and Asian (stage of crow’s feet -10%) volunteers.
After 42 days of treatment, 100% of the volunteers considered their fine lines and wrinkles to be attenuated.
Meanwhile, a comparative study with retinol found Peptilium’s efficacy to be more rapid and intense than retinol while having no side effects.
The ingredient is made using an industrial co-product, the cranberry fruit press cake. Silab then uses an eco-extraction process to purify the biopeptides to 95%.