in-cosmetics – the ingredients of innovation

A wide range of innovative ingredients for skin care and other cosmetic applications were highlighted in the in-cosmetics innovation seminar programme in Barcelona. They included natural actives – plant extracts, marine extracts, plant stem cells – emollients, preservatives, products with anti-glycation and anti-inflammatory properties, amino acids, polymers and surfactants.

The innovation seminar programme at this year’s in-cosmetics in Barcelona opened the door to a wealth of novel solutions, as John Woodruff reports

Each year in-cosmetics allows ingredients suppliers the chance to introduce new materials in a series of innovation seminars. Concurrent with these are trends presentations that purport to look into the future of cosmetic products. The seminars covered all aspects of cosmetic formulation with ingredients for product preservation, skin care and numerous active ingredients from natural resources as well as rheology control, hair care and ideas for improved sun protection.

Preservation is one of the most difficult areas of cosmetic formulation; few consumers want preservatives in their products but very few compositions are safe without them. Under the title of Innovative Preservative Solutions, Lonza’s Michèle Benhaïm summarised the problems faced by the formulator. She said the main issues were the types of formulation to be preserved, meeting consumer desires, compliance with regulations, the company’s own technical requirements and the formulator’s personal preferences. As a solution to these problems Lonza launched FormulaProtect, an online interactive tool that enables formulators to save time by identifying preservatives that best suit specific needs. Criteria such as pH, required spectrum, formula type, possible incompatibilities and regulatory and organisational approvals are entered into the system after which the user is presented with a selection of recommended preservative options along with detailed information on each of them. Benhaïm said the FormulaProtect tool has been developed to select the right preservative that meets both required efficacy and marketing needs.

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