Forever Young

Pure Beauty's guide to anti-ageing skincare

Anti-ageing skincare is undoubtedly big business, as consumers constantly seek out the latest and greatest elixirs of youth. According to Kantar Worldpanel, anti-ageing moisturisers accounted for 41.6% of the £737.53m UK facial skincare market in 2013. But with the huge amount of new skincare products hitting the shelves every year, each containing high-tech ingredients and technology, it’s easy to get confused. In addition, customers experience skin ageing very differently: where one may see wrinkles as their biggest skin issue, dull skin and dark spots may be the bugbear of another. In order to direct your customers to the products that will make a difference to their skin, it’s important to first understand the basics of skin ageing and why it happens, and then get to grips with the different signs of ageing and the ways to treat and prevent them.

Back to basics

Skin ageing is caused by a number of intrinsic (genetics and hormones) and extrinsic (environmental and lifestyle) factors. While poor diet, smoking and pollution can all contribute to premature ageing, the main culprit is sun exposure. Fiona Brackenbury, Head of Training and Education at Decléor, says: “80-90% of skin ageing is caused by UV rays, and in particular UVA which penetrates the deepest into the dermis, damaging collagen and elastin. While UV rays are the most harmful aggression to the skin, pollution and free radicals also play a major, negative role.” Collagen and elastin are the main supporting structures of the skin and these deplete as we get older, but free radical and UV damage speed up their demise. The key to looking youthful for longer is to avoid accelerating their disappearance and provide the healthiest possible environment in which they have the best chance to thrive. A good daily skincare routine will help. Dr Marko Lens, internationally acclaimed plastic and reconstructive surgeon and founder of Zelens skincare, says: “Skin cleansing is essential in the morning and evening, but it has to be gentle and without stripping the skin moisture. In the morning a good moisturiser with antioxidants is important to fight free radicals. On sunny days, broad spectrum SPF 30 should be added after moisturiser. In the evening we should use products that will repair skin and boost collagen. Gentle exfoliation three to four times a week is important to speed up the natural skin renewal process.” A treatment serum or product could also be added in the evening, after cleansing and before – or instead of – moisturiser (according to directions), to target specific concerns. . . .

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