Unilever scientists identify link between skin microbiome and skin ageing in ‘first-of-its-kind’ study

By Lynsey Barber | Published: 3-Sep-2025

Unilever’s researchers found a difference in the skin microbiome of older and younger-looking people, despite them being the same chronological age, and that a topical product can improve the bacteria in those with premature ageing

Unilever scientists have identified a link between the skin’s microbiome and how old we look in a “first-of-its-kind study”, published in the British Journal of Dermatology.

Individuals with the same chronological age, but who look different ages, were compared by Unilever researchers.

Those who appeared younger were found to have a more resilient and stable microbial community on their skin, while those with premature ageing showed a more fragile microbiome.

The bacteria ‘Acinetobacter’ in particular was found in abundance on the skin of the younger looking group, found the study.

"This is the first time scientists have shown that the skin microbiome could be linked to how old we appear, even among people of the same age,” said Jason Harcup, Chief R&D Officer, Beauty & Wellbeing at Unilever.

“What is particularly exciting is that we saw those with visibly younger skin had a more stable and resilient microbial community, while those who looked older had a more fragile one.”

Researchers also found that the application of retinyl propionate – a retinoid commonly used in anti-ageing skin care products – not only improved age-related skin physiology, but shifted the microbiome to become more like that of those who looked younger.

The study – Skin Microbiome as a Signature of Premature Ageing Appearance: Manipulation through by use of Topical Products – looked at the skin of 65 individuals aged between 40 and 50.

Of the group, 30 were identified as having premature ageing, based on VISIA CR images – a skin analysis tool commonly used by researchers – while 35 were deemed to have delayed ageing.

Those with premature ageing were given a marketed product to use twice daily for four weeks.

Skin brightness, elasticity, hydration and barrier functions were measured before-and-after four weeks of use. 

Facial microbiome samples were collected from upper cheeks using a cup scrub technique

The microbial DNAs were extracted and sequenced for bacterial classification and analysis.

The findings suggest that topical skin care can influence the network of bacteria found on skin, which could open the door for anti-ageing solutions that target the microbiome.

“Importantly, we also found that using a retinyl propionate product not only improved visible signs of skin ageing but shifted the microbiome towards a profile more like that of younger-looking individuals,” said Harcup.

“This opens up a whole new way of thinking about the role of the microbiome in skin health and ageing. Particularly how we might develop future anti-ageing skin care that strengthens and supports the skin’s microbial network.”

Previous research by the consumer goods company, which owns beauty brands Dove, Dermalogica and Paul’s Choice, uncovered a potential link between the skin’s microbiome and mental wellbeing.

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