French company Induchem has developed Brightenyl, an active ingredient that targets a functional layer of the human skin: the stratum microbium to remove skin discolouration due to brown spots and redness, even out pigmentation and improve complexion.
The company notes that "controlling the skin color, redness and reducing pigmentation require the use of different ingredients as these parameters rely on several different biological processes - vasodilation, inflammation, melanogenesis, coagulation of melanin and accumulation of UV-induced damage."
The stratum microbium, or microbial layer, is a new active layer of human skin that can be targeted by cosmetics aimed at improving skin pigmentation. Brightenyl acts on seven biological targets in this layer where millions of beneficial microorganisms (known as micro-flora) live in symbiosis with our cells.
Active ingredient THBG, or tri-hydroxy benzoic acid alpha glucoside, is an alpha-glucoside derivative of THBA (trihydroxy benzoic acid), a tyrosinase inhibitor. THBG is stable and highly water-soluble.
In vitro studies demonstrate that THBA and THBG act in synergy, reducing free radicals, preventing UV damage and blocking melanin synthesis. In an 84-day study, Brightenyl was shown to decrease UV-induced spots by a factor of 18, decrease hyperpigmentation by 150%, redness by 600%, and brighten skin overall by a factor of 16.
