VageStop – A Photoprotector Against UV Damage

Sparassis crispa is known as Cauliflower mushroom by its unique look (Figure 1). This mushroom is edible and very tasty.

What is VageStop?

Sparassis crispa is known as Cauliflower mushroom by its unique look (Figure 1). This mushroom is edible and very tasty. Cauliflower mushroom has several biological functions such as anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, anti-inflammatory, anti-spasmodic and anti-oxidative effects.

Veratric acid (Figure 1) is one of the major benzoic acid derivatives from vegetables and fruits. This molecule is also naturally found in medicinal mushrooms such as Sparassis crispa. However, it has rarely been applied in cosmetics area and BioSpectrum, Inc. has recently discovered its protection effect on UVB-induced damage of skin cells (Related full scientific article published by BioSpectrum’s R&D center found at http://www.mdpi.com/1420-3049/18/5/5405).

Figure 1. Sparassis crispa (left) and Structure of Veratric Acid (right)

VageStop, a new cosmetic ingredient developed by BioSpectrum, Inc. contains at least 0.5% of the veratric acid. Veratric acid in the VageStop is highly stable under harsh conditions such as extremely high temperature, light and various pH regions. When VageStop is formulated into finished products, the veratric acid in the product still remains stable and does not affect the finished products’ color, odor and all.

Clinical Study on Skin Protection and Recovery Effects of VageStop

A clinical study has been performed to evaluate skin protection and recovery effects of VageStop on UV-induced damaged skin (by DermaPro Skin Research Center, Korea). 18 female subjects (average ages; 41.8±4.1) participated in this study. The erythema was induced on the forearms of the individual subjects with UV (1.5 MED). The recovery effect was evaluated by visual assessment, erythema index, skin hydration and trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) at the first visit (base line: before UV irradiation), 0 (after UV irradiation), 1, 2, 3 and 6 days after application of the emulsion containing 2% of VageStop (A group: once-treatment before UV irradiation and apply for 6 days, B group: 6 days treatment after UV irradiation). The results indicated that VageStop is considered that it helps to reduce skin erythema (Figure 2) as well as to increase the level of skin hydration (Figure 3) on UV-induced damaged skin.

Figure 2. Clinical study of VageStop on skin erythema

Compared to control group, erythema level was significantly decreased in VageStop groups (both A and B groups) at all time points.

Figure 3. Clinical study of VageStop on skin hydration

Compared to control group, skin hydration level was significantly increased in VageStop groups (both A and B groups) at all time points

Publication and Patent

[Publication] Antagonist Effects of Veratric Acid against UVB-Induced Cell Damages. Molecules (2013) 18, 5405-5419

[Patent] Korean application No.: 10-2012-0139564. Composition for improving skin conditions comprising veratric acid or pharmaceutically acceptable salt there of as an active ingredient.

Practical Hint

PRODUCT NAME VageStop
INCI NAMEGlycerin (and) Water (and) Sparassis Crispa Extract
COSMETICS USAGEVageStop is especially effective to protect and recover UV-induced damaged skin, and therefore helps to prevent skin photoaging.
USAGE LEVEL Usage levels may vary from 1% to 10%, depending on the formulation.
FORMULATION GUIDELINEDo not add when the formulation temperature is higher than 55°C. In the last step, cool the formulation temperature to lower than 55°C and then add to the formulation.
STORAGE & SHELF LIFEVageStop should be stored in the original container protected from light in a clean place at a room temperature and normal dry condition. If stored under the recommended conditions, VageStop remains stable for at least 3 years.
SPECIFICATION Appearance ~ Yellow liquid
Odor ~ Characteristics
Solubility ~ Water-soluble
pH ~ 3.50 ~ 6.50 at 25°C
Specific Gravity ~ 1.10 ~ 1.30 at 25°C
Microbial Analysis ~ Less than 100 cfu per gram

VageStop is a cosmetic ingredient specifically designed for skin cell protection and recovery effects. It can be used in various types of cosmetic application.

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