HBA Global Expo (9-11 September) promises to bring together the very best in the beauty business from the US and beyond and this year lived up to that. Emma Reinhold reports on what this year's show had to offer
With Fashion Week running concurrently just across the city, this year’s HBA Global Expo, held at the Jacob K Javits Convention Center in New York, took on an even more dynamic feel than usual as it showcased some of the most forward thinking trends and product developments available in beauty.
The show, now in its 16th year, prides itself on being a platform for the packaging, ingredients, contract manufacturing and end product sectors within the US beauty industry but has this year tried to strengthen its European influence, with a push to attract more exhibitors and visitors from the continent as well as increasing its number of first time visitors.
“We are really happy with the results of this year’s show – there are three times the number of European visitors as last year and good European growth in general,” HBA event director, Jill Birkett told SPC. “Almost 25% of exhibitors are new this year, along with 3,000 people registering as first time attendees.”
Show numbers were on a par with last year, with 16,207 participants for 2008.
There were some noticeable absences on the show floor however, with a number of high profile names shying away from exhibiting this year.
“The tougher economy is affecting all shows,” explained Birkett. “Hotel rooms cost so much more during fashion week and this has had an impact of sorts. The numbers are what we expected though and the goal is to take this success forward to next year.”
The scheduling of HBA during Fashion Week will not be replicated next year and 2009 will see a number of new initiatives including greater emphasis on the technical and ingredients and private label and contract manufacturing sectors.
“The show is 16 years old now – it’s a well run product and we want to have fun with it. We are already planning for next year and it is going to be exciting,” added Birkett.
In recent years, HBA has focused on its educational conference programme, which attracts large numbers of visitors and exhibitors. This year’s programme was divided into three sections with talks on marketing, technical and green issues, and even included a live radio broadcast for the talk show Skin Health Today, which discussed some of the latest trends in the industry. This year’s highlight was a keynote address from Dr Nicholas Perricone, who shared his insight on maintaining good skin and optimum health through diet, nutritional supplements and topical skin care products.
In addition to the conferences, the show also featured the third annual International Safety, Regulatory and Certification Summit, which focused on topics including beauty from within and the REACH regulations, and the popular New Product Innovation Showcase, which highlighted some of the latest products exhibited at the show. Exhibitors were also given the chance to showcase new products to the wider visiting public in the Exhibitor Presentation Theater.
GOING GREEN
Following in the steps of other recent industry gatherings the theme of natural, organic and sustainability dominated this year’s show, with a particularly strong emphasis coming from the packaging sector.
Alcan Packaging Beauty has already made strong headway into the sustainability sector, replacing fossil-based polymers with bio-polymers as well as reducing materials usage with its Slender cap. It added to this with the launch of Be Organic, a full service range of 95% Ecocert certified cosmetics. The range is said to be free of animal derivatives, synthetic fragrances, pigments, emulsifiers and preservatives, instead containing plant-derived oils, shea butter, natural pigments and plant-based preservatives.
“The full service aspect is a new activity for us and providing the customer with only one contact means that we can check every stage of the process to ensure sustainability and quality is not compromised,” explained Dalila Dafir, director communications, Alcan Packaging Beauty. “Sustainability has become a very important topic and we feel there is a lot of potential to develop it further.”
Leoplast meanwhile, presented a new range of plastic make-up containers designed using a unique biopolymer produced from plants. The Ingeo biopolymer has now been used in a new range called Bio-Stone, which comprises two powder compacts, an eye-shadow compact and a jar for loose powder or cream, with a sifter or lid.
Amcor showcased its new mono-material laminates for single or multi-pack wipes. The films are said to offer a 60% reduction in plastic usage compared to a standard cleaning wipes canister, as well as using 18% less PET. The laminate features a tactile soft-touch feel that can be manufactured to feel like leather or fabric and is available in ten colours. The laminate has already been used by eco home care company Method for its new line of bamboo-based cleaning wipes.
Certification was also a hot topic at the show with exhibitors keen to show off their green credentials. Silab offered three organic ingredients which recently gained Ecocert certification. Osilift Bio, derived from a sugar found in organically farmed oats, helps smooth and tone skin, while Vitanol Bio is said to have a similar effect on the skin as retinol but without the stability issues and is derived from organically derived alfalfa, which helps to stimulate collagen synthesis. Finally, Structurine Bio is said to improve the stratum corneum and prevent water loss.
Twincraft Soap also showed its commitment to organics by promoting its multiple certification from The Soil Association, the USDA and Oregon Tilth for its soap bases, which has prompted the company to develop two new lines. Soap bases from the Ultra Organic range can be used for certified organic soaps and are said to be derived from certified organic palm oil that is traceable to its source, as well as being chelate free. The Luxe Natural range, although not certified as organic, does not contain chelates, pentasodium pentetate, tetrasodium etidronate or tetrasodium EDTA.
“We have had a lot of interest from these products at the show,” said Barbara Devine, director of marketing, Twincraft Soap. “The natural movement has certainly helped bar soap as it is an environmentally friendly, 100% biodegradable product, with very little excess packaging.”
Contract manufacturer The Color Factory also chose a certification theme, showcasing its new line of Ecocert certified skin care and colour cosmetics. “We have taken on a serious Ecocert focus and we are really pleased with the results,” said Color Factory president Judy Zegarelli. “We thought we would only be able to do beets, carrots and celery shades but the colours are incredible.”
Also going down the certification route is Royal Labs. The contract manufacturer is in the process of working towards USDA certification for its products and has started to manufacture its creams and lotions without emulsifiers, instead using plant components.
“Not everyone wants natural and organic but we have been very busy on each day of the show, so this looks like a trend that is here to stay,” said Paul Lieber, founder and ceo, Royal Labs.
FOOD FOR THOUGHT
Alongside eco-beauty, the trend for beauty from within played a prominent role at the show. Market research group Mintel hosted a daily sampling session, in which visitors could try a number of nutricosmetics including chocolate containing anti-acne properties, fat-burning water and a jelly fortified with collagen.
Nestlé also unveiled its latest foray into the beauty from within category, Glowelle. Billed as a beauty drink dietary supplement, Glowelle is formulated with a proprietary blend of antioxidant vitamins, phyto-nutrients and botanical and fruit extracts that help to fight the signs of ageing and hydrate skin. The drink is available in two flavours, pomegranate & lychee and raspberry & jasmine, and in a ready to drink and powder format.
“We wanted to build awareness of Glowelle in the beauty industry and have had very good feedback at the show,” said Kimberly J Cooper, chief beauty officer, Glowelle. “This product really builds on the nutrition and wellness platform that is emerging at the moment.”
This year’s show highlighted the level of importance the green issue now holds in the C&T industry, from raw materials to packaging. And in order to fulfil the demands of certification and sustainability it is vital to keep all parts of the supply chain informed. Most visitors and exhibitors agreed that the show certainly succeeded in this respect. Jill Birkett concluded: “The show is about internetworking, People know each other here and are making meetings. But it’s also a chance for new people to come and get acquainted with the industry. Talking together is the best way to move forward.”