La Défense, April 2026 – At the In-Cosmetics Global 2026 trade show, Laboratoires Expanscience will present OSMOLYA, their new naturally derived active ingredient designed to optimise cellular osmoregulation and enhance hydration in both skin and hair. Extracted from Iresine weberbaueri, also known as flor blanca, an endemic Peruvian plant renowned for its remarkable adaptation to extreme environments, this active ingredient fits perfectly within Expanscience’s bio‑inspired innovation approach.
A bio-inspired active ingredient to address modern hydration challenges
Modern hydration is no longer limited to supplying water to the skin’s surface: it now aims to optimise hydration directly at the cellular level by supporting the resilience and proper functioning of cells exposed to daily stressors.
In this context, OSMOLYAis a water-soluble extract rich in betaine (≥13%) and polyphenols (≥6%), two key families of molecules naturally involved in protecting against osmotic, oxidative and inflammatory stress.
Just like Iresine w., which survives extreme environments thanks to its ability to finely regulate its internal water balance, OSMOLYA:
- Activates the cellular response to osmotic stress
- Increases the expression and production of osmolyte transporters (TAUT, SMIT and BGT1)
- Improves the skin barrier by stimulating key markers (HAS3, TGAS1, involucrin) and increasing occludin expression
- Reduces cellular damage caused by osmotic stress by significantly decreasing inflammation and oxidative stress
This triple action - osmoregulation, reinforcement of the skin barrier, and antioxidant & anti-inflammatory activity - positions OSMOLYA as a next‑generation active ingredient capable of meeting the growing need for cellular hydration.
Clinically proven efficacy on the skin
Clinical studies conducted on a multi‑ethnic panel of female volunteers with dry skin show that OSMOLYA at 2% improves skin hydration from the very first hour after application, but also over the following days. These results were confirmed by corneometry on the forearm as well as by TEWL evaluation on the face. Scorage by a clinician and by the volunteers themselves also indicate a reduction in dryness, desquamation, and roughness. Moreover, OSMOLYA also demonstrates a significant improvement in stratum corneum thickness compared with the placebo, measured by RAMAN spectroscopy, confirming its role in strengthening the skin barrier. Volunteers further confirm this efficacy, reporting an increased perception of hydration as early as day 3, with results confirmed after 28 days of use.
Proven efficacy on hair: hydration, strengthening, curl definition and anti-frizz effect
Thanks to its high content of osmolytes (betaine) and polyphenols, OSMOLYA also acts on the hair fibre:
- Hydrates the hair from within by increasing the fraction of strongly bound water in the hair fiber, as revealed by low‑field NMR analysis.
- Strengthens hair fibers.
- Significantly reduces frizz and improves curl definition on type-3A hair tresses.
Compliant with the requirements of the COSMOS and NATRUE standards, our active ingredient meets the strictest international criteria for naturality, quality and transparency. These certifications ensure that the ingredient is derived from natural raw materials and processed using environmentally respectful methods.
An innovation fully aligned with Expanscience’s CSR vision
Armelle LE PENIEC, Director of Cosmetic and Nutraceutical Actives at Laboratoires Expanscience, explains:
“Thanks to its bioinspired nature and multibenefit efficacy, OSMOLYA embodies the ambition driving Laboratoires Expanscience to develop well-being oriented active ingredients that are eco-socially designed and ever more inspired by nature and the living.”
For interview requests or additional information, our team will be available throughout In-Cosmetics Global 2026 and after.
Please contact Mélanie SERRE (mserre@expanscience.com) to schedule a meeting.
For further information on the active ingredients: