In-Cosmetics - Show stoppers

Visitors to the 2006 In-Cosmetics exhibition were offered a wide selection. Here we look at some of the launch highlights

Barcelona played host to a highly sucessful show this year with innovation and new products at every turn. Whilst all exhibitors offered the industry something, here are some companies that particularly caught the eye and the visitor flow.

Keeping up appearences

That visual effects are significant in appealing to consumers was attested to by many new products in the field. Pritty Pearlescent Pigments introduced two new series to its offerings of light interference-based special effect lustre pigments. The Crystal Diamond series features 18 separate pigments with particle sizes of 20-180mm in colours ranging from sparkling star luster to multi-coloured diamond luster. The other new series, Titanium Crystal, has seven pigments, the effects of which include deep blue sapphire luster and shining bright yellow luster.

Meanwhile Eckart presented a new line of pearlescent pigments that the company says provide a natural shimmer and healthy glow to cosmetics and skin care products. The new Prestige soft earthtones pigments are available in four different skin tone colours- Soft Bronze, Soft Copper, Soft Fire Red and Soft Beige. Using the latest advances in process technology the pigments have an average particle size of 5m. The high aspect ratio results in shimmering effects and the small particle size and very thin platelet thickness, producing a soft skin feel.

Geotech, which distributes for Ekhart in Eastern Europe, displayed the latest addition to its product range for cosmetics. Midnight Black pigment is said to allow the formulator to create a deeper black effect, and compared to iron oxide a reduction in loading of over 50%. Midnight Black is a carbon black pigment approved by the FDA for cosmetic applications as D&C Black 2. The product can be supplied as a pigment, powder and in dispersions (water, isododecane, mono propylene glycol). Also new from Geotech was a range of cosmetic approved polyester glitter, containing 14 colours that include four golden shades and a holographic lavender. The products are available in particle sizes of 100, 150, 200 and 400 microns. The premium Geoshine range has been expanded by a new copper shade, which is available in 100 and 200 micron sizes.

EOC Surfactants promoted EuroNac AMF Ultra, a new liquid amphoteric pearlescing agent designed to give formulations a shiny, white appearance with the INCI designation of Glycol disterate, cocamidopropyl betaine. This has been developed for use in anionic systems and is also EO-free. The product has a dosage range of 1-4% and will increase the viscosity of end formulations. It is particularly suited to hair care products. Also new from EOC was Europacif 2155, which is a new preservative-free versatile opacifier for giving a milky appearance to a wide range of personal care products.

Stay young

Befittingly for a booming sector of the C&T market there were many innovations on offer for skin care. Back at In-Cosmetics after opting for PCIE last year, Ciba launched its three-part Better Aging concept. The first cause identified for skin ageing is UV-induced skin damage which is countered by Tinosorb UV filters, which have been developed to ensure safe and effective photoprotection. The second cause of skin barrier destruction and degradation is dealt with by Tinoderm Moisturisers which offer immediate and long-term hydration for better skin barrier maintenance. Skin damage beyond the barrier is the third cause and this corresponds to Tinoderm encapsulated actives that intergrate highly efficient actives into the Nanotopes delivery system to facilitate skin repair. "We want to address the holistic approach to skin care and are looking at the skin through a multi-generational approach," says Pasqaule Falcigno, marketing and sales, Ciba. "The aim is to protect throughout a person's lifetime and the concept is based around real people and real life situations rather than using models."

Following its Orgasol Touch range to enhance texture and application of skin care products, Arkema introduced Orgasol Soft Focus for formulations developed for optical wrinkle lifting. It has a very fine particle size (around 5mm) and is said to make its way into the wrinkles to act as a micro reflector, lighting up dark areas to give skin a lift. Unlike other pigments and fillers used to mask skin imperfections the particles are said not to form an opaque layer on the skin's surface, ensuring a natural look

CLR used the show to present NanoLipid Restore CLR, a delivery system based on nanostructured lipid carriers. The system contains black currant seed oil, which is rich in free essential fatty acids, such as O-3 and O-6 fatty acids, as well as flavonoids. The product helps to restore very dry and rough skin and reduces transepidermal water loss by repairing the disturbed lipid barrier. Designed for regenerative care of very scaly and aged skin, NanoLipid Restore can be used in formulations to form a film on the skin. The free essential fatty acids migrate into the stratum corneum while the lipid matrix remains on the skin. By combining the regenerating property of blackcurrant seed oil and the benefits of the nanostructured carrier, CLR says the product offers prolonged bioavailability and protection against oxidation.

Hair today

In hair care Rohm and Haas has designed Acudyne DHR specifically for high performance aerosol sprays and pumps. This is a mixture of two acrylic polymers consisting of a hard phase and a soft phase. The polymers are random and linear, consisting of polymerised methacrylic acid, hydroxyethylmethacrylate and various acrylate esters. It is manufactured as an emulsion in water. Upon neutralisation it dissolves into water or water/alcohol to form clear solutions. Rohn and Haas says the benefits include flexible, long-lasting hold and shine enhancement.

A new addition from ISP, UltraThix P-100, provides the dual-functional benefits of styling and thickening from a single polymer for crystal clear styling applications and other personal care products. ISP says the ingredient has also demonstrated superior curl retention and significant improvements on comb drag and skin feel. Applications include clear water-white styling gels, spray gels, mousses and surfactant-free oil dispersions.

Active life

Eastman Chemical Company launched NutriLayer, a premium, natural active ingredient for topical skin and face creams, sun screens and lip care. Derived from rice bran, NutriLayer is a powerful antioxidant that nourishes, soothes, and protects the skin through a combination of naturally occurring ingredients. "NutriLayer helps personal care brands meet consumer demand for holistic, natural treatments that yield touchable, visible results," said James McCaulley, Eastman's global market development manager, personal care. "We look forward to putting this unique ingredient to work to help our customers develop the highest quality, most effective beauty treatments." NutriLayer is extracted from non-genetically modified organic (GMO) rice and is not chemically altered. Refined using a patent-pending process, NutriLayer delivers the essential, highly concentrated moisturising and antioxidant benefits of rice bran. Suited for rich night creams and lighter day creams, it forms a protective barrier on the skin that entraps water, effectively locking in moisture at low concentrations.

B-Gel is a new active hydrogel from Arch that provides multifunctional benefits to both skin and hair, delivering rheology control with advanced moisturisation and feel. This three-dimensional structure consists of a number of anionic charges on the polyacrylate polymer backbone tied together with the cationic portion of betaine. The polymeric complex is said to provide consistent and effective delivery of moisturisers immediately upon skin contact and prolonged moisture delivery after application.

Laboratoires Sérobiologiques, the active ingredients business of Cognis Care Chemicals, exhibited its latest products designed to enhance consumers sense of well-being. These included: Litchiderm LS 9704, which protects and hydrates the skin; Vit-A-Like LS 9737, a botanical anti-ageing treatment that can be used as an alternative to retinol; and Eye Line, a new range of actives each addressing a specific issue in eye contour care, including Eye Resolution, designed to combat bags under the eyes, and Active Powder Eye Light, which reduces dark circles. Commenting on Litchiderm Isabelle Stussi, senior product manager, said: "The idea is to have food for the skin. We thought it would be good to bring the freshness of fruit to cosmetics. We’ve done biological testing that proves the protection from UVA and UVB free radicals and clinical tests show we have freshness and vitality."

Honeywell announced the launch of its Asensa line of formulated, tailored ingredients specifically designed to improve the features and performance of cosmetics and other personal care products. The Asensa line includes a range of low molecular weight polymers and copolymers specifically designed for the personal care market. These new products increase permanency, emolliency, moisture retention, water resistance and thermal stability. They also act as film formers, oil or fragrance encapsulants, and non-irritating abrasives. Asensa micronized products function as lubricants for deodorants and as suspension aids, binders and flatting or texturising agents for colour cosmetics. "With our versatile line of low molecular weight polymers, we can provide a wide variety of compositions, properties and particle sizes that meet virtually any application requirement," said Philip Orawski, marketing manager for Honeywell's personal care initiative.

Natural winners

Ubuntu Natural, a new range of African natural lipids was launched through an innovative partnership between Aldivia and PhytoTrade Africa, the Southern Africa Natural Products Trade Asssociation. The idea is that Aldivia's lipid know-how and green technologies ensure the high quality required for cosmetic formulations and Phyto Trade Africa assures indigenous raw plant materials are sustainably wild-harvested by and for the benefit of rural people. The lipids are produced without solvents or irradiation and in accordance with clear social and environmental guidelines. "We guarantee that all Unbuntu lipids are delivered through a fair and reliable supply chain," said Gus Le Breton, PhytoTrade Africa chief executive. "Priority is given to disadvantaged producers, and the long-term relationships we have developed with these producers means we have built up considerable trust, mutual respect and transparency." Regarding the actual lipids, Pierre Charlier, ceo Aldivia, says they have "100% natural origin, clear specifications and literature support, systematic microbiological standards and one not tested on animals.

Technoble, distributed globally by Presperse, showed three new botanicals. Beautifruit is a combination extract from mango, mangosteen and cherimoya that shows excellent fibroblast cell activation effects. Ranveil-ex is an active from the tubers of Chinese Ground Orchids and provides the skin with a protective barrier against environmental stresses such as smoke, exhaust and other air-borne pollutants. The third extract Tanosa is from the bark of the Pau d'arco tree native to the Amazonian watershed. It suppresses inflammation by reducing PGE2 production.

Gemmoblasts is a new organic range of plant extracts that is the first in a platform of products offered by Jan Dekker International produced in France, certified organic by Ecocert, harvested with respect to the ecosystem and non-animal tested. Jan Dekker has patented four plant species and carried out in vitro and in vivo tests to evaluate efficacy. GemmoSlim is made from the buds of the common fig and was found to be active for slimming. Gemmo-Drain, sourced from the buds of the service tree mountain ash, improves blood circulation. GemmoRegule is extracted from the buds of the wayfaring tree and aids the prevention of skin reactivity. GemmoCalm is produced from the buds of the European blackcurrant and treats skin damage.

Brittany is the leading area globally for developments in marine and plant biotechnologies and these were well represented at In-Cosmetics. Biotech Marine showed a new technology based on genetics using plant cell cultures. “To start the culture we take the membrane of the plant before differentiating it and growing the cell,” said Eric Lefevre, international sales manager, Biotech Marine. “The first product we have used is sea fennel and the in vivo tests have shown strong skin lightening, anti-ageing, antioxidant and healing properties. The big advantage is the lack of side effects as it is a natural product. We will continue with other cell cultures and we can customise the claim by using different stems.”

CBB Développment promotes Breton biotechnologies and many innovations were presented. These included exfoliating ingredients and high performance micronised powders for masks or spa products from partners Lessonia and Technature.

Lessonia was also involved in the highly successful In-Focus Amazonia platform at the show, offering non-refined, organic sugar cane recommended for use in place of purified sugar in body scrubs and exfoliants and enabling manufacturers to label their products as both organic and fair trade. The company was also offering guarana exfoliator, manufactured from guarana seeds. These are known for their toning properties, containing guaranin, a substance similar to caffeine. Luffa Annatto was also presented. Used traditionally as a body paint and a fabric dye, Lessonia was promoting it as an exfoliant.

The best known company currently offering ingredients from the Amazonian Rainforest is Brazil's Beraca, this year celebrating its 50th anniversary as a manufacturer and distributor of Amazon vegetal specialities and other active ingredients to the cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries. The company's new Active Performance Systems line is said to be 100% natural and comprises actives for specific applications in personal care, all in vivo and in vitro tested. Another big player is Croda with Crodamazon, supplying significant quantities of ingredients including passion fruit, babaçu and Brazil nut. Also from the Amazon, this time Peruvian and from Agipal, was Inca Inchi (plukenetia volúbilis Linneo), offering a high content of essential fatty acids of Omega 3 (>48%).