Ready for take-off

Published: 15-Mar-2014

The trends presentations at in-cosmetics 2014 will take formulators and suppliers on a journey into the future of beauty, Imogen Matthews reports

This year’s in-cosmetics marketing trends presentations will feature an extensive programme addressing key trends and issues affecting the global cosmetics, toiletries and fragrances markets. Leading research companies including Kline & Company, Mintel, Euromonitor, Datamonitor and Organic Monitor will present the latest year-end data and analysis on global cosmetics, toiletries and fragrance trends. There will also be sessions on a wide range of topics, including cosmetics innovation in southeast Asia, the alphabet craze in skin care and future visions of the beauty market for 2015 and beyond.

A new feature for 2014 is the in-cosmetics Country Focus on Brazil, the third largest personal care market worldwide and a country featured throughout all aspects of this year’s show. The trends presentations are sponsored by Brazilian company Chemyunion, and Commercial Manager Sérgio Gonçalves will give an introduction on the first day discussing what innovation companies can expect from a Brazilian partner.

There will also be three Brazil-focused marketing trends presentations from Brazil’s cosmetics and toiletries trade organisation ABIHPEC, Chemyunion and Mintel, detailing the latest cosmetics trend data on this powerful market. In its presentation, Mintel, for example, will show how consumer beauty usage behaviour is evolving in response to the changing social and retail environment, using examples of western and Asian brands that are blending Brazilian botanicals with high tech actives for natural beauty.

Irina Barbalova, Head of Global Beauty and Personal Care Research at Euromonitor, will provide a global rundown on beauty markets where big hitters including the US, Brazil and China are witnessing growth pressures and innovation is becoming increasingly saturated. Barbalova will explore cross-category movements in product development and how brands will continue to be inspired by closer synergies, among both different beauty segments and cross-industry shifts. She predicts that Brazil and China will remain crucial to future expansion strategies, while hair care and skin care will benefit from innovation, both in terms of formulation and multi-sensory experience. Also, putting the spotlight on Brazil and China is Kline & Company. It says that while the specialty actives market is dominated by Europe, developing markets – in particular China and Brazil – are gaining share. Nikola Matic, Industry Manager for Kline’s Chemicals and Materials practice, will identify areas where the European and US markets are the least active, where improvements can be sourced and how China and Brazil will impact the industry. He will also discuss total market performance, new trends and the latest developments in all four regions, as well as the strong potential offered by the markets in China and Brazil.

Southeast Asia is also a source of considerable inspiration for western cosmetic markets. To help delegates find out more about the region and what it offers, Asian beauty industry expert Florence Bernardin, General Manager of Franco-Japanese product consultancy Information & Inspiration, will share the latest trends in terms of formulations and textures coming out of Asia, and which brands are influencing the markets.

Category development

Fragrance plays a key role in the development and marketing of personal care products. In its presentation on day one (its Brazil presentation is on day three), Mintel will look at the global importance of the fragrancing of personal care products. Emmanuelle Moeglin, the company’s Fragrance and Personal Care Analyst, will give an overview of the role of scent in formulating and positioning cosmetics products, using examples from Europe, North America, Latin America and the Asia Pacific, in addition to the role of fragrance as a motivator to purchase.

Hair care, once a lacklustre market, has shown strong growth in the past two years and is evolving into a multifaceted category inspired by skin care and salon alternatives. Oru Mohiuddin, Senior Analyst, Beauty & Personal Care at Euromonitor International, will shine a spotlight onto hair care which has fast become a close rival to skin care in its projected contribution to global growth. She will look at trends in Brazil, which has gained an even stronger foothold in the global hair care market, and discuss trends such as ethnic hair care that are emerging internationally.

Sun care is the strongest growth category within skin care, according to Datamonitor, due to the rising awareness of the importance of preventative sun protection, treating sun damage on unprotected skin and the growing popularity of self-tanning products. Ramaa Chipalkatti, Senior Analyst, Consumer Insights at Datamonitor, will explore how consumers’ beauty and wellbeing needs influence new product development in sun care and will cast a vision into the future to see which trends are likely to have the greatest influence on innovation.

The ‘alphabet’ trend is also gaining currency, as a method of maintaining beauty needs which fit in with the demands of the busy, beauty conscious and value seeking consumer. Are these multifunctional products a long standing trend worth investing in, or just a passing craze? Jamie Mills, Associate Analyst at Datamonitor, will make an assessment as she examines the rising importance of these products within the beauty space.

In a second presentation, Kline & Company will look at the evolution of non-surgical treatments and trends within the anti-ageing skin care market. Ewa Grigar, Senior Analyst, Consumer Products at Kline, will highlight the latest trends in the mass and professional markets in non-invasive aesthetics and for at-home skin care devices. “With interesting dynamics revealing themselves within anti-ageing treatment methods among consumers and marketers in various geographical regions, the session aims to comprehensively unveil the trends, ingredients and technologies of this ever-young industry,” she says.

The future of sustainability

Germany is the largest European market for natural and organic products which are expected to reach 10% of total cosmetic sales in the coming years, according to Organic Monitor. Founder and President Amarjit Sahota will give an update on this growth market, explaining why Germany leads Europe. He will identify the German brands riding the green wave and the growth rates forecast in the coming years.

In addition, Eduardo Escobedo, Director of the Responsible Ecosystems Sourcing Platform (RESP), will explore future business models for innovation related to botanical extracts and ingredients that will be effective in meeting new regulatory requirements on access to genetic resources and benefit sharing. This will include looking at legislative processes in key sourcing countries, assessing their potential impacts on current research and development practices, and identifying strategic options for the industry.

Round the table

The Marketing Trends Theatre will also host a number of roundtable discussions, with panels of experts looking to the future at innovation in development or debating issues of contention.

‘Innovation in skin care technology’ is the focus of the first roundtable, moderated by Dr Barbara Brockway, President of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists (SCS). It will feature panellists Steve Barton, a skin biologist with over 35 years’ experience in skin research and product development and current Director of Skin Thinking, and Jack Ferguson, founder and Managing Director of Skinnovation.

The second roundtable will explore how ‘Anti-ageing joins the youth club: Consumer targeted cosmetics get younger and younger’, moderated by Simon Pitman and Andrew McDougall from Cosmetics Design. The discussion will focus on the booming anti-ageing cosmetics market as consumers strive to look and feel young, and the move to target the growing demand from the younger generation – a strategy that requires minimal change in the formulation of products. Marketing can be tailored to both mothers and young children. Panelists will include Alice Hart-Davis, creator of Good Things skin care, and Antoinette van den Berg, founder of trend and product forecasting studio Future-Touch.

Working it

As well as the marketing trends presentations and innovation seminars, in-cosmetics 2014 will feature a series of workshops led by technical and scientific experts from the likes of L’Oréal and Johnson & Johnson. Topics set for discussion at the show include what’s next when it comes to testing cosmetics, paraben-free preservative systems and developments in the lucrative hair care market.

This year’s programme boasts a total of nine workshops, more than at any previous in-cosmetics event. And, for the first time ever, in-cosmetics will also be hosting a pre-show workshop on ‘Recent perspectives in nanotechnology’ in cooperation with the IFSCC. The line-up is as follows:

New pre-show workshop
‘Recent perspectives in nanotechnology’
31 March, 14:00 – 18:00

'The animal testing ban – what’s next? Part 1’ 1 April 09:00 - 12:30
‘The animal testing ban – what’s next? Part 2’ 1 April 13:30 - 17:30
‘Developing paraben-free preservative systems’ 1 April 13:00 - 17:00
‘How to break into the Brazilian personal care market’ 2 April 09:00 - 13:00
‘Rethinking anti-ageing – the skin, the brain and our senses’ 2 April 09:00 - 13:00
‘How to break into the Chinese personal care market’ 2 April 14:00 - 18:00
‘Sustainable claim substantiation – regulatory’ 2 April 14:00 - 18:00
‘What’s new in hair care’ 3 April 09:00 - 13:00

Finally, ‘Innovation vs status quo – is new always best?’ will be debated by Good Things’ Hart-Davis, Sarah Brown, founder of Pai Skincare, and Dr Andrea Sättler, Director of International R&D Skin/Body Care at Henkel Beauty Care, and moderated by Angelika Meiss, Senior Editor of COSSMA magazine.

Social media: what works?

One area that is rapidly growing in importance at all levels is social media. However, it is sometimes hard to know which social media activities create measurable value and which are a waste of time. Social media consultant Richard Stacy, from Stacy Consulting, will help sort out the good from the not so good. He says that maximising the number of likes on Facebook or followers on Twitter does not create high value relationships – these kinds of relationships can be obtained only from a small number of people. To illustrate his points, he will draw on examples of good and bad ways in which the beauty and cosmetics sector has utilised social media.

Beiersdorf, on the other hand, actively integrates external knowledge, ideas and solutions into the development of new products for Nivea and Eucerin under its Open Innovation scheme. Professor Dr Klaus Wittern, Vice President and Head of Research & Development at Beiersdorf, will tell delegates about the company’s collaboration with partners and the success stories which have resulted.

Looking ahead

Premium beauty has outperformed many consumer markets over the past few turbulent years and remained a key focus for many brands. Understanding past trends is vitally important in deciding on the best course of action for the future and several presentations shall address this.

<i>There will be a roundtable discussion exploring how beauty brands are targeting anti-ageing technology at younger and younger consumers</i>

There will be a roundtable discussion exploring how beauty brands are targeting anti-ageing technology at younger and younger consumers

Imogen Matthews, founder of IM Associates, will look back over the past ten years of premium beauty and identify key trends that have shaped the market, while offering recommendations on how brands and retailers should proceed in the future.

Future-Touch founder van den Berg is known for translating future trends into innovation by crosslinking industries, finding new markets and inventing new applications for production techniques nobody ever thought of. Her presentation will look at the trends for 2015 and beyond, and translate them into highly innovative 3D, printable cosmetic applications and unique colours.

Key beauty trends, lifestyles and creative directions for 2015 and beyond will be the focus of a presentation by Peclers Paris’ Head of Colour & Beauty, Dominique Assenat, and beauty designer Lucille Gauthier. Inspiration will be derived from socio-cultural and seasonal fashion trends, with a particular focus on product concepts, colours, textures and ingredients for key players in skin care, hair care, make-up, fragrances and packaging.

The final presentation will be by KyungGoo Lee, Manager of the Korea Cosmetic Industry Institute, National Coordinating Centre for Global Cosmetics R&D (KCII-NCR). KCII has been running a project to build a Databank of Skin Characteristics By Countries, which will assist in developing cosmetic products tailored to different ethnic groups. Lee will discuss how the segmentation of consumers into subgroups by nationality and ethnicity will help manufacturers and suppliers meet growing consumer demand for personalised products.

The in-cosmetics 2014 trends presentations take place in Hamburg, Germany, between 1-3 April 2014.

Further information is available at

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