The capacity of innovating and the creativity to benefit the growing consumers expectation are the main drivers in the beauty industry. Efficiency and safety of personal care ingredients are undeniably the key features to meet consumers’ preferences.
At the same time consumers are increasingly conscious of the environmental, social and ethical ramifications and expect the industry to commit to a responsible use of resources across the entire value chain.
Another key driver that is highly influencing the customers’ choices is the sensorial aspect of the cosmetic products, crucial for the degree of acceptance of a cosmetic formulation and affecting the consumers’ perception of quality and efficacy.
For the sensory qualities they give, powder ingredients are increasingly used in cosmetic formulations providing many sensory attributes such as powdery, silky and velvety.
Powders are extensively used in a wide range of industry segments, outside of the make-up category. The sensory features that powders provide are desirable in several applications: in compact powders they provide cohesion and a soft feeling, in Sun and Skin care they can improve the performance and boost the smoothness of the skin.
Plastics (e.g. PMMA) and resins derivatives are still the most widely used sensory enhancing powders by the formulators. Polymethyl Methacrylate (PMMA) is a fine white powder with an average particle size of 5-20 microns, largely used to cover wrinkles and fine lines due to the light scattering properties which enhances optical wrinkle masking; it also imparts a “ball bearing” effect, provides texture and may also be used as a carrier to deliver active materials.
PMMA is considered high performance and safe for human use, but it is raising concerns of biodegradability and environmental accumulation which are now no longer ignored by the consumers.
It is not trendy anymore with a strong consumer’s defiance because of the fate of the earth and ocean, its limited biodegradation and accumulation in our environment. Therefore, cosmetics manufacturers and brands constantly look for more sustainable and green alternatives.
Brenntag Cosmetics EMEA is very excited to present YuraQ from Döhler, a powdery ingredient that perfectly meets all the recent ethical and environmental market instances while delivering exceptional performances in enhancing the sensory consumers’ experience.
YuraQ comes from a magic seed called Tagua produced by a native wild palm tree in the tropical rainforest of Ecuador.
Due to its consistency, appearance and creamy white shade, the stone nut is also known as vegetable ivory. Once milled to a fine and smooth powder, it is perfectly white.
The Tagua Nut helps endangered rainforest land and supports the local economy by providing jobs to dozens of indigenous communities. The Tagua Nut is marketed under Döhler’s brand name YuraQ which in the Ecuadorian indigenous language is the word for “White”.
Tagua Nut powder is suitable for cosmetics application and could be an excellent match for formulators who want to replace PMMA either in emulsion or in free powder.
The sensory analysis of YuraQ powder on skin, at the particle size of 15µm and 28µm, in emulsion at 10% of concentration and in free powder form, are shown in figure 1 and figure 2.
Figure 1 - Comparison of PMMA powder and YuraQ Powder 15µm and 28µm at 10% in emulsion
The sensory analysis, in emulsion, clearly shows the contribution of the YuraQ powder to the overall performance. Slippery, cushion, covering, shine on skin and smooth attributes are improved. In the same time, other attributes remain more or less the same.
Figure 2 - Comparison PMMA powder and YuraQ Powder 15µm and 28µm (free powder)
The sensory analysis, in free powder, demonstrates that YuraQ performs similarly or even better than PMMA, and at the same time, improves the covering and spreading.
YuraQ microparticles, produced by Tagua Nuts, provides an enjoyable texture and enhances formula touch, improving the smoothness and cushion effect, without compromising spreadability and slipperiness.
Covering skin tone is far more optimised with YuraQ than with PMMA at 10% (almost 3 points difference in the graph) meaning that Yuraq may replace a certain amount of TiO2, in free powder.
YuraQ presents an effective innovative solution to formulate sustainable colour cosmetics and skin care products. With its unique properties, YuraQ significantly improves the overall sensory performances of the cosmetic formulations and at the same time is an ideal green alternative to replace standard plastic powders like PMMA.
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