Bayer's Serdex division has introduced two new vegetal extracts, one from a cultivated plant in China and one representing the company's first liquid extract.
San Qi extract [INCI: Ginsenosides] is a highly purified extract of Panax notoginseng roots extracted from cultivated roots and said to be superior to 90% with a titration in five major gensenosides. In terms of biological activity, San Qi extract matches the more usual Panax ginseng, but it also shows additional specific activities such as heme-oxygenase activation (enzyme important in cellular protection in skin), protection against induced senescence (beta-galactosidase release reduction) and immune system protection (protection against UV-induced Langerhans' cell apoptosis).
Supplied in powder form, the extract is said to be easy to formulate and fully soluble in water. It is recommended for use at 0.1 -0.5% in general skin protection and as skin tonic formulations for mature and stressed skin.
Ambiaty extract [INCI: Water (&) glycerin (&) Vernonia appendiculata leaf extract] is a solution of Vernonia appendiculata extract in a glycerin-water blend. Traditionally the plant is used in Madagascar in wound healing and to treat stomach ache. This is the company's first liquid extract, which is not a simple extraction but a purified extract that is then solubilised to aid formulation. The vegetal extract from the wild plant is titrated in phenolic compounds and the high content of glycerin in the blend means it does not require added preservative.
Bayer says the extract offers impressive properties for dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) repair and dermis stimulation, capable of activating both keratinocyes and fibroblast for DEJ compounds synthesis. For example, it is said to improve skin cohesion thanks to the activation of the systhesis of Laminin V and Cytokeratin 14, leading to restoration of the functional interface. Ambiaty extract is also said to increase the glycosoaminoglycans content and reduce MMP-1.
Patent applications have been submitted for both materials.