Manufacturers have taken inspiration from far and wide for their latest colour cosmetic launches. SPC finds out how these influences are shaping the sector
Look in a woman's make-up bag and you are sure to find a make-up product influenced by something you wouldn't have imagined. From fashion and food to science and skin care, the colour cosmetics market is arguably the most impressionable sector in the C&T industry, with outside factors and materials dominating the development of new products.
These influences have been creeping into colour cosmetics in recent years providing huge potential for innovation. In particular, skin care technology and the associated benefits have been used to create skin caring colour cosmetics with additional anti-ageing, plumping, lifting and radiance boosting ingredients.
“There has been a blurring of the boundaries with skin care,” explains Diana Dodson, Euromonitor's senior industry analyst for cosmetics and toiletries. “We have seen anti-ageing plumping lip glosses, anti-fatigue foundations, nanotechnology and skin whitening properties becoming more popular and SPF has become a common feature beyond just foundations.”
This blurring of sectors has manifested itself across both mass and premium brands with many mass brands taking the lead in terms of innovation. Rimmel London launched Recover Illuminating Anti-Fatigue Foundation containing EnergyBoost complex, which is said to energise tired skin thanks to a cocktail of vitamins C and E, along with magnesium, calcium, potassium and zinc, which the brand claims will plump sagging skin and help promote skin renewal.
Clarins reformulated and repackaged its entire make-up line and added several new products including Instant Light Complexion Perfector and Instant Light Eye Perfecting Base. Both products are claimed to even skin tone and create a fresh radiant look to skin.
L'Oréal Paris also identified the strong link between make-up and skin care with the development of Age Re-Perfect Re-Plumping Foundation, containing Vita-Collagen, said to help prevent dehydration, and silicone elastomers and anti-redness pigments to ensure smooth, even skin tone and texture. The new foundation is being marketed alongside Age Re-Perfect skin care.
At the premium end, Chanel launched Teint Innocence a new foundation and powder collection claimed to help the user regain the radiance and softness of a child's cheek thanks to a cocktail of skin loving ingredients.
“There is a definite move towards more skin care and treatment make-up,” adds Pout co-founder Emily Cohen. “For example lip plumping products are easy to use and can be bought over the counter rather than performed in salons.” The niche retailer has launched Eye Wander, a treatment based correction pen containing Eyeliss and Haloxyl, claimed to reduce the appearance of dark circles under the eyes, while Pout Plump lip treatment is a best seller in its boutiques and concessions and is said to 'inflate' lips over time by stimulating collagen synthesis.
Similarly, Clinique's Full Potential Lips Plump and Shine promises to create an immediate plumping effect whilst moisturising lips thanks to ingredients including Capsicum Frutescens fruit extract, ginger root oil and magnifying pearls, which deliver a 3-D effect. Clinique also claims with use the product will make lips fuller, softer and more contoured over time.
Smashbox meanwhile has concentrated on the skin's microcirculation with the launch of O-Glow, a clear gel designed to deliver a natural glow to cheeks. The formula contains Goji Berry-C complex, a natural extract that can mimic the skin's micro-circulation, according to the brand. On contact with skin the gel creates a rosy glow similar to the natural shade cheeks turn when blushing.
US niche brand Tarte has taken this trend one step further with the creation of an edible lipgloss with skin care benefits. According to the brand the average woman ingests between two and four pounds of lipgloss in her life, equivalent to 708 tubes. As a result it has teamed up with Borba nutraceuticals to create Inside Out, a vitamin infused lipgloss containing a green tea extract, vitamins A C, E and K, and lychee and chamomile extracts, which are said to enhance skin clarity and increase the production of elastin, helping to protect against the signs of skin ageing.
Dodson believes that this latest wave of skin caring colour cosmetics is just the tip of the iceberg and we can expect to see many more make-up launches addressing concerns such as ageing and under eye bags.
“The trend towards functional products with skin care benefits will accelerate but I think we will see manufacturers using these added benefits to better target particular consumer groups,” she explains. “We could also see brand partnerships between colour cosmetics labels and skin care brands, or the use of branded skin care ingredients in skin care ranges. There could also be a rise in the number of dermatologist-backed colour lines as manufacturers try to prove the efficacy of their functional brands with added skin care benefits.”
Mineral makeover
The growth in popularity of skin care benefits in colour cosmetics has also given rise to the growth of mineral make-up with many brands using the addition of mineral ingredients in their formulations as a point of difference on an already saturated market.
“Mineral make-up not only taps into the trend for natural ingredients and is hypoallergenic but it also enables manufacturers to create more vibrant colours in lighter formulations that stay on for longer,” says Dodson.
So far the phenomenon has been restricted to premium and niche brands but Dodson predicts it won't be long before multinationals begin to develop their own brands or look for acquisition opportunities among established brands.
“Make-up is moving away from a heavy look to a fresh, transparent glowing complexion, and as a result mineral make-up has become in demand,” explains Glo Minerals vp business development Robin McGee.
The Glo Minerals brand consists of eye, lip, cheek and base colours, which are claimed to prevent pore clogging as well as protecting skin against UV damage. New products include Protective liquid foundation, available in a satin or matte finish. The foundation includes Venuceane, a heat activated antioxidant and Mala'kite, containing copper and said to promote the skin's natural defence against hyperpigmentation. All Glo Minerals products are claimed to be suitable for use after cosmetic procedures including waxing, microdermabrasion, chemical peels and laser resurfacing.
“Mineral make-up has also become more popular due to its natural healing and protective qualities,” McGee continues. “With advancement in skin care benefits the consumer now requires that colour cosmetics offer the same qualities.”
Therapeutic colour cosmeceutical brand Cover FX has also tapped into the trend, focusing on the development of a new range of mineral powders. Mineral FX contains micronised mineral powders, which are claimed to protect against the loss of elasticity and collagen, helping to hide lines and wrinkles. In addition, the formula contains SPF15 and zinc oxide which helps reduce irritation and inflammation.
Other mineral brands stepping up to the fore include Colorlab, which claims to offer talc, fragrance, dye-free products which provide long lasting coverage with lightweight formulas. And the Lily Lolo range of mineral colour is said to be suitable for even the most sensitive skin.
On paper, the properties of mineral make-up look set to create a big splash in colour cosmetics. But some in the industry have strong reservations about the efficacy and safety of mineral make-up. Dominique Bouvier, vp Strand Cosmetics Europe says the latest surge in popularity for mineral make-up is founded on inaccurate information and marketing claims and needs to be approached with caution.
“Manufacturers are basing their claims on the idea that mineral is natural and therefore safe but this is completely wrong. I am shocked at some of the brand claims I have read,” says Bouvier. “For example, talc or hydrated magnesium silicate is a very good, safe mineral but many manufacturers ban talc from their products because they claim it contains asbestos qualities. However, pharmaceutical talc does not contain any asbestos and today all cosmetic talcs are coated with lipaminoacids, silicone or phospholipids to enhance smoothness, biocompatibility and physiological acidophilic properties.”
She also questions the safety and sourcing of ingredients for many mineral make-up brands, arguing that stronger controls should be set up to prove the origin of the minerals used.
“Everything is a question of quality control and people should be looking into these claims,” she adds. “Where are these ingredients being extracted and what has been done to guarantee the safety and healthy benefits? I am also concerned about the enormous generalisations such as vegetal is natural and therefore safe. Some of the most dangerous lethal ingredients are natural, such as digitaline, cyanhydric acid and venomous mushrooms.”
Clearly the guidelines surrounding mineral make-up are rather vague and need to be properly defined in order for this dynamic sub sector to flourish.
Clever make-up
Increased product efficacy has also been a dominant trend in the colour cosmetics market over the past 12 months as manufacturers make ever-greater claims about their products. Long lasting foundations and lip products have been the main beneficiaries of this trend with new launches from the main players that promise greater comfort and wearability, as well as staying power.
Revlon relaunched its ColorStay make-up line with new shades and products. Each product now contains SoftFlex, a technology said to combine long wearing and comfort properties. The foundation is claimed to offer 16 hours of wear as well as a flawless finish and SPF 6. The concealer and lipstick line contain the same technology and promise to create a light natural look.
Similarly, Rimmel opted for staying power with the creation of Cool Matte 16Hr Mousse Foundation that is claimed to provide a 16 hour matte finish with a cooling sensation. What sets this product apart is its water-based formula, which contains a high quantity of purified water and a low level of silicone. The result says Rimmel, is a lighter texture and non mask-like finish, so often associated with long-wear foundations. The formula has also been used in the brand's Cool Shine Lipstick, which contains 25% purified water and features a gel-based formulation with virtually no wax. This results in a more vibrant, comfortable long wear lipstick.
Elsewhere, Maybelline has invested in high reflection lip colour with the launch of Watershine Aqua-Mirror Shine lip colour. The lipstick contains highly reflective emollients and shine polymers blended with pigments that are said to reflect light in a similar way to water, creating a high shine finish. In addition to the mirror-effect finish, the lipstick contains vitamin E to moisturise and condition lips.
Improved application has been the focus for L'Oréal Paris' new Jet Set nail lacquer. The product has been designed to create uniform nail coverage with one stroke thanks to a new Brush-Reservior applicator that holds the nail varnish in a reservoir in the cap. The system enables the user to paint all five fingers on one hand without dipping the brush back in the bottle, saving time and any potential smudges.
YSL Beauté has also focused on creating a point of difference through innovative packaging and formulas with its latest make-up launches. Éclat de Givre eye shadow features a powder to cream formula that creates a cooling sensation on the eye area when applied thanks to an innovative blend of silicone pigments. The product is housed in an airless applicator, which prevents the formula from drying out. “YSL takes advantage of its status of a 'trendsetter' in the make-up category,” explains a YSL spokesperson.
This is no more evident than in the brand's two latest key launches, Perfect Touch and Lip Twins. Perfect Touch foundation uses the same integral brush format as the brand's iconic Touche Éclat concealer but in a larger size. The product is squeezed through the brush in a measured amount and can then be applied directly onto the face. The result says the French brand, is a more professional finish. Also making its debut is Lip Twins, a duo lip colour and gloss product, featuring a lipstick case that can be turned to release either the gloss or the lip colour. It is the first such dual product from YSL and the design draws heavily on its fashion and accessories arm.
Star gazing
Accessories and celebrity have also played an important role in colour cosmetics, with the French beauty houses in particular utilising their fashion division in the development of new products. Dior, YSL and Lancôme have all created limited edition jewellery and make-up hybrids featuring lip and eye colours encased in a branded compact. The compacts have ranged from dice to bracelets and are fast becoming collectors items, according to the brands.
The cult of the celebrity is another area that is seeing a rise in popularity in the make-up arena. Celebrity has already swamped the fragrance market but more and more make-up brands are using celebrities to front their latest campaigns.
L'Oréal Paris was one of the first brands to use celebrities to front its products and has enjoyed success with this format for many years. Its latest launch, Star Secrets sees its covergirls lend their names to lip colours and eyeshadows. Each product features the signature of one of its celebrity faces as well as supporting marketing material showing the models.
Mac has also teamed up with burlesque performer Dita Von Teese to create NocturnElle, a make-up line inspired by Von Teese's signature look. The range includes lip, eye and nail colours in shades of red and black embellished with shimmering pearl particles. The brand has also used the power of celebrity to front its Viva Glam lip colour concept, which supports HIV/Aids. Celebrities that have lent their face to the campaign include Pamela Anderson, Eve and Lisa Marie Presley. Meanwhile Dior secured Monica Bellucci for its 2006 launch of Rouge Dior lipstick.
With a wealth of inspiration available for colour cosmetic manufacturers, consumers look set to enjoy even greater product claims and benefits in their make-up in the future. However, it is up to the industry to ensure these products are researched and marketed responsibly. Consumers are always looking for the next wonder product and manufacturers must ensure what goes on counter is the genuine article.