As companies prepare to visit in-cosmetics Munich (21-23 April 2009), Imogen Matthews looks ahead to the always popular trends presentations
Next month’s in-cosmetics marketing trends presentations, sponsored by ingredient supplier Ajinomoto, has three strongly themed days enabling visitors to focus on the areas of greatest concern to their business. Speakers from leading market research organisations, agencies and consultancies will share their expertise.
NATURALS & ORGANICS
The natural and organic theme has been a key focus of the trends presentations for the past few years and continues to be of major interest to ingredient suppliers and producers of beauty products. Over the past year, the global personal care industry has come under increasing economic pressure, but natural and organic products continue to grow strongly. Deidre McNulty, project manager, consumer products research practice, Kline, will aim to bring clarity to natural and organic definitions which remain ill-defined despite an increasing number of industry and supplier initiatives in the past couple of years. She will also analyse the most recent trends in the global natural personal care markets.
New innovations within the natural and organic sector will be the focus of Nica Lewis, head consultant, beauty innovation, Mintel in her presentation. She will highlight new brand launches using natural ingredients and technologies. A specific area of interest will be indigenous plants and remedies from the Americas, Asia Pacific and Europe.
“Naturoganics” is a word coined by Mike Ramsayer, chief executive officer of media research agency mymarketmonitor, which is fast becoming the industry term that sums up brands operating in the naturals and organics markets. His presentations will summarise Naturoganic market trends in the media and Ramsayer will explain why UK beauty editorial pages are losing out to increased advertising pages.
Organic Monitor founder and director Amarjit Sahota, will look beyond natural and organic and examine the rise of ethical cosmetics with case studies of companies at the forefront of these developments. He will then moderate further case study presentations from companies operating in the natural and organic sector, including Organic Apoteke, Santaverde and Ajinomoto.
Organic Apoteke’s presentation will look at breakthroughs in formulation science that have made it possible to marry high performance, results-based formulas with the strictest organic standards.
Santaverde, which produces natural cosmetics and foods, will present on sustainability as a key value in ethical markets. Sabine Beer, managing director of Santaverde, believes that establishing an ethical and sustainable brand with personal responsibility is based on classical human and ecological values but with space for creative innovations and future-oriented products.
Ajinomoto’s talk will focus on ingredients which it has developed for use by natural personal care brands. There will be an opportunity for questions and answers following the presentations.
BEAUTY CLAIMS
Day two of the trends presentations will be devoted to presentations on what beauty brands are claiming for their technologies and formulations and what is allowable. Euromonitor’s Irini Barbalova will examine real and hidden claims in anti-ageing products and talk about trends in nutricosmetics, natural products and cosmeceuticals. Mintel’s Nica Lewis will highlight the newest beauty claims related to protecting stem cells, repairing DNA and boosting the immune system.
Yana Charushkina, research analyst, Frost & Sullivan will look at the role of active ingredients and their ability to enhance the functional properties of skin care products. Her presentation will be an overview of the vitamins’ markets, alpha and beta-hydroxy acids, sodium PCA, triclosan and botanical ingredients. She will also provide details on market structure, main technological developments, strategic recommendations, conclusions and competitive advantages.
Beauty advertisers are coming under scrutiny for their claims, especially in the UK by the Advertising Standards Authority. Dr Chris Gummer, director, Cider Solutions Ltd, will review the process that should work but is getting some brands into difficulty.
Dr Jack Ferguson, director, Skinnovation Ltd, will discuss the impact that new EU guidelines will have on the many skin care products pushing the cosmetics/medicines boundary. These state that cosmetics may have a physiological effect without necessarily being classified as medicines.
Beauty journalist and brand creator, Kate Shapland, will talk about her experience in launching the beauty drink Sip, which came to market in 2007. Her talk will show how the worlds of beauty, beverages and food are becoming more entwined. Her view is that products that have an impact inside and out are the future for beauty because they offer added value. In addition, she will provide insights on what it is like to cross the line from editor to manufacturer and marketer.
THE FUTURE OF BEAUTY
Euromonitor’s Izaskun Bengoechea will look to the future and identify which will be the next beauty hot spots in personal care, including future opportunities and challenges. Her presentation will provide a global trend overview by category and country, identifying future growth opportunities beyond the BRICs.
Gillian Morris, director, chemicals and materials consulting practice, Kline, will take a retrospective look at historical sources of technology innovation including a review of key enabling technologies over the past ten years. She will also identify future sources of enabling technologies for personal care and assess the impact of regulations (eg REACH) on the pace of innovation.
Cosmetic market forecasting is mainly influenced by the fashion industry, according to Antoinette van den Berg, founder of Future Touch, a forecasting consultancy. She believes this can be useful, but is too abstract to provide information about raw materials and cosmetics in general. Her presentation will give a tangible vision of the future of cosmetics, translating this into cosmetic effects, raw materials, colours and products, including insights into the future direction for eyes, lips, nails and skin.