Cosmeceuticals is the latest buzz word in anti-ageing and becoming a viable alternative to cosmetic surgery. Laura Lovett talks to Jorn Zemple, general sales manager of Dr Lewinn’s, the brand that has come straight from the Australian sunshine
The cosmeceutical industry is undergoing staggering market growth, driven by increasing numbers of consumers looking for non-invasive solutions to ageing. Contrasted with the unknown risks and costs of cosmetic surgery, it is not surprising that the upper echelons of the cosmetic market is becoming a more viable option.
However, the market has until now been largely made up of niche brands and its science and product innovation comes at a notoriously high price, something that Dr Lewinn's Private Formula has set out to change.
Starting out as post-surgical treatments, early products were sent to be developed under the harsh Australian sun. The following success has been so widespread in its home market, beating the likes of L'Oréal in popularity, that the brand launched in the UK last year. This year it has set its sights on establishing itself as the only affordable, effective cosmeceutical grade range.
Jorn Zemple, general sales manager, describes his vision in the European market: “Dr Lewinn's bridges a gap between the mass market and upper prestige with its affordable price point. It doesn't fit with either end specifically, so sits alone, employing advanced technology that normally costs into the hundreds.”
Dr Lewinn's stands apart from others in its direct approach and has been the number one premium brand in Australia for the last eight years. “Our key objective has always been to be very accessible, and this manifests itself in our distribution channels and in the fact that it is a self-selection prestige brand. Counters are important but we invest in training to ensure that consumers always get the information they need.”
Unlike other new brands to the market, there is no must have item: “We ask our staff what their favourite product is – every person names a different one, which I think shows it’s not a single sku approach, we have 17 strong products that each stand independently.”
At present Lewinns is available in Harrods, Fenwicks, the top 30 Boots stores and a sprinkling of independents that reflect the brand’s values. Interestingly, in Harrods the collection is situated between Dr Sebagh and NV Perricone and trained sales staff are the key to establishing the brand. “We are still in the awareness phase at the moment. We are expanding everywhere but are focusing on the UK as a slow burning market so that we can have long-term success here. We don't want to run before we walk or propel the brand into any other market.”
Next in line for the brand is the rest of Europe (Germany, France and Denmark initially), Canada and the US, which Zemple says is: “Logical for us as our roots are there. One day we will return with banners and a fanfare.” Longer term plans include Malaysia, South Africa and India.
With the likes of Estée Lauder, Origins and Elizabeth Arden edging into the cosmeceuticals arena with micro-dermabrasion, treatments and botox alternatives, how does the little guy win over new markets? Zemple explains: “Our Line Smoothing Complex certainly pulled people from Estée Lauder, so there is definitely some overlap and healthy competition but we do represent something different.”
The sector is inherently about innovation, so the pressure is always to be at the forefront of technology: “Being first is very important – we can quickly catch a trend, launching a product with a new ingredient in under a year. Nimble and flexible because we have our own in-house production, we can react to market trends.”
There has been a shift in the focus of anti-ageing to encompass preventative products that appeal to the younger end of the market, says Zemple. The baby boomer products which reduce signs of ageing contrast with this newer younger audience, who take preventative measures against the effects of time. “We can't run fast enough to get it out there – there is such demand but we will have developments specifically for this market in the near future.” Following a consumer editorial in You magazine earlier this year, the product mention stimulated 2,000 phone calls of interest, forging 1,000 repeat customers.
Dr Lewinn's appears to stand apart, not only in its approach to product development and its attitude to access for all with its price points, but because it is underpinned by a classic marketing tool: “Word of mouth is enormously key to targeting new customers to the brand. Nine out of ten times, once they've tried the range they consistently come back.”