A look at the latest developments in sun care and how consumers are being persuaded to better protect themselves from the sun for their benefit and that of C&T companies
More than any other sector in the personal care industry sun care has significant ramifications for consumer health. Driven by this the sector moves fast, pushed by constant technological innovations. The ever growing consumer awareness of the dangers inherent in excessive sun exposure means sun protection and aftersun products are selling in greater quantities and value, and the use of tanning products as an alternative method of achieving the golden glow valued by western society is becoming widespread.
The worldwide sun care industry grew from a value of $6345.2m in 2006 to $6947.5m in 2007, an increase of 9.5%. Furthermore the sector is forecast to perform strongly in the next five years, with increases predicted in all three sub-sectors (Euromonitor).
Sun protection is expected to continue its dominance of the sector with the 2007 value of $5,762.6m estimated to grow to $7,605.1m by 2012. Self-tanning products are expected to rise to from $691.3m to $778.72m and aftersun to increase from $493.3m to $603.3m.
Consumer confusion
Due to the damaging effects of the sun it is very important that consumers are able to clearly ascertain the level of protection offered by sun protection products, something that has been addressed by the EU. “The new EU recommendation means that customers will start to notice changes on the labelling of some manufacturers’ sunscreens, which should make it easier for people to understand the SPF system,” notes Nina Goad of the British Association of Dermatologists. “As well as the SPF number, the SPFs will be categorised as providing low to very high protection, to make the SPF guide easier to understand. This is important as many people may associate SPF 25 with high protection as SPFs start so much lower, whereas SPF 15 to 25 is actually only medium protection, and SPF 15 is the minimum level recommended by dermatologists.”
There is much debate in academic circles about the best methods of sun protection or when protection is actually necessary. In a paper entitled Behavioral Strategies Recommended to Reduce Risk for Skin Cancer (2007) Dr Stephan Lautenschlager, from Triemli Hospital in Zurich, says that the daily use of sunscreen from October to March for people living in areas of low sun exposure, such as the UK and Northern Europe, is not necessary. This goes against some products that aim to be used all year round in these markets. He does however state: “There is evidence to suggest that year-round application of sunscreens can help prevent cancer and solar elastosis in areas of high insolation, such as Queensland in Australia and Texas in the US.”
Lautenschlager goes on to say the most important factor for effectiveness of sunscreen is the application of a liberal quantity of sunscreen, followed by the uniformity of application and the specific absorption spectrum of the agent used. Given the growing consumer enthusiasm for natural products it is interesting to note he recommends organic sunscreens should be applied to exposed sites at least 15 minutes before sun exposure.
In response to Lautenschlager’s paper, Dr Mathieu Boniol states that while his team of researchers agree with Lautenschlager in that “sunscreens are to be used as an adjunct on body areas that remain uncovered and should not be used to increase time in the sun,” they criticise commercial advertising that promote the idea of “safe sun” as it encourages people to unsafely increase sun exposure and decrease reapplication of sunscreen.
Man trouble
The battle for protection is gendered and data from Mintel shows that more women use suntan lotion than men and are also more likely to be heavy users, using three or more bottles per year. Alexandra Richmond, analyst at Mintel, comments: “Men are more likely to apply only when hot and sunny conditions prompt them. Research from our sun care preparations report shows that men are more ignorant about sun exposure, with many only using sunscreen when it is hot, or thinking that the sun is not as dangerous in the UK as it is abroad.”
Some companies are looking to address this through marketing aimed at educating and attracting male consumers.With this in mind Nivea Sun has released an SPF 50 version of its Light lotions, which Beiersdorf says will appeal to men by fighting premature ageing. This product also ties into the growing consumer desire for easy to use products.
“One of the main trends we have identified is the consumer need for lighter products and higher convenience, which is answered by our recent product introductions,” says Stephan Ruppert, product developer for Nivea sun care at Beiersdorf. In summer 2007 Nivea introduced the Light Lotions, a completely new type of sunscreen lotion, to the market. The key advantage is better spreadability onto the skin and a much lower amount of residue on the skin after application. The technology behind this is based on special emulsifiers and oils, liquid UV filters and starch derivatives as sensory modifiers. Ruppert notes: “The main reason for the introduction of this technology was the consumer need for lighter textures and the finding that a lot of consumers don’t use sunscreens just because they don’t like the sticky feeling. So an improvement of sensorial properties is the key to consumer acceptance of sunscreens.”
In 2008 Nivea has gone on to develop DNAge Face creams with SPF 30 & 50 as a part of the DNAge range. The products contain folic acid & creatine in order to help the protect skin cells from DNA damages, which are one of the main reasons for skin ageing.
Good delivery
The sun care market has seen innovation in delivery formats that complement wider consumer trends, most notably for convenience. Many new product introductions are presented in a spray format, which means less handling of the product and it makes it easier to protect hard to reach areas such as the backs of the legs and the back.
New products are increasingly offering extra benefits, for example multifunctional sunscreens that sport firming and anti-cellulite benefits, bronzing properties or insect repellence. Examples include Kanebo's Sensai Silky Bronze, which claims to reduce and improve wrinkles whilst firming the skin with a silky bronze finish. In the summer of 2007 L'Oréal launched Solar Expertise Active Anti-Wrinkle Brown Spot Cream, which is said to help reduce and prevent the appearance of wrinkles, smooth skin and remedy brown spots. It is generally accepted that using UV protection can help slow the ageing process so the crossover between skin care and sun care is a potent area for future development.
“Given that many people holiday to hot destinations and strip down to their swimming costumes, they are exposing flesh that they may feel very self conscious about, and for this reason those products that offer added benefits, particularly anti-cellulite will strike a chord with the more body-conscious amongst us,” comments Mintel’s Richmond. “Also, few of us want to be the whitest people on the beach and bronzing sunscreen is also a product that holds strong appeal.”
L’Oréal has introduced a new anti-ageing collagen protector. This gel cream is enriched with Pro-Collagen, an exclusive Solar Expertise ingredient, that protects against sun induced premature skin ageing and reinforces the skin’s collagen fibres to leave the skin feeling firmer and more toned. Also new to the Solar Expertise range this year is a transparent spray advanced sun protection that is said to be instantly absorbed leaving no white streaks on the skin and for ease of use even works when sprayed upside down.
Although amongst adults, formulas that don't leave big white streaks are in high demand, coloured pigment is available in children's products so that parents can see any bits that they've missed. In the summer of last year, Avon launched a turquoise lotion spray (SPF 40) for children. The colour helps make sure that skin is fully protected by making it easy to see skin that has been missed.
Boots added two new products to its popular Soltan range. Soltan Once Spray SPF 15 and Soltan Once Face SPF 25 are both designed to the delive a patented antioxidant complex called Optisol that works by boosting the skin’s natural defences. “One application works for up to six hours with its advanced triple protection system combating immediate and long-term UVA and UVB skin damage to the delicate skin of the face,” explains Mike Brown, Boots sun care scientific advisor. “Light diffusing particles are included to disguise any fine lines and wrinkles.”
New for Vichy’s Capital Soleil line is Fresh Cream Face. Available in SPF 30 and 50, the product provides hydration to the skin, enriches it with ingredients Hyaluronine and Sebostop, and optimises UV absorption through L’Oréal’s patented Mexoryl XL filters. For oily skin Micro Fluid Mat SPF 30+50 uses a mattifying agent and Vichy Thermal Spa Water to help soothe and fortify the skin’s barrier function.
In the world of self-tan Rimmel is hoping people will take the advice of scientists and shun the sun in favour of its four new tanning products. Instant Tan Mousse is available in golden and bronze shades and is said to offer a natural looking tan. Also new is SunShimmer’s Maxi Bronzer, which allows readjustment of complexion, Duo Bronzer, a combination of shimmer and matte bronzing powders, and Instant Tan Travel Bronzer, which is travel sized.
Specialist concerns
Looking at niche areas within the market, Outside Labs has developed new sun care products designed to meet the needs of extreme sports participants and athletes. “We set out to make sun care products that meet the needs of active people whether they are weekend warriors or elite professionals,” explains founder John Bowen. “There was a feeling among athletes that existing products did not cater to their needs because they were not sweat or water-proof in real life situations.”
Launching in the US this year under outdoor brand K2’s banner, Bowen says after taking an overview of the sector there were three major areas where they felt they could offer considerable performance enhancements. “First we wanted to achieve legitimate water and sweat-proofing that actually performed when swimming, surfing or running a marathon. Secondly we wanted full spectrum protection as most existing brands only offered partial UVA protection. Thirdly - product aesthetics. We felt other products were poor in terms of texture and looked bad, often leaving a white greasy layer. The reality is that technology has advanced to the extent that this is now unacceptable. That poor feel meant consumers do like to wear sunscreen or reapply it regularly, which is very bad for health. Because men use significantly less sun protection than women, and men have much higher rates of skin cancer as they age, one of the underlying design motivators for the K2 Endurance Suncare line is to encourage younger men to become proactive in protecting their skin and lips in all exposure conditions.”
The new products boast practical and dynamic packaging. The packs are very compact and lack edges, which can be painful if you fall on them. The lipbalm is in an oversized container so it can be used with gloves on and features a twist mechanism reminiscent of a missile silo that allows one-handed operation. Products in development at K2 include a stick applicator that will fight frostbite and a format for surfers that can be applied underwater.
Future earnings
According to Mintel figures, 26% of UK adults say that neither they nor their family use sun protection products. Given this there is clearly room for future expansion for products with direct health benefits. But how can this be achieved? “Extending sales of sunscreens to new distribution channels such as at music festivals and key leisure destinations could drive use. Travel sizes could be sold through garage forecourts and in motorway service stations on busy routes to popular holiday resorts,” proposes Richmond. ”Also, selling sunscreen alongside t-shirts and swimwear would encourage people to take a more responsible approach to the sun. Launching sun care products along with new summer clothing collections would help reinforce consumer associations of wearing sunscreen with summer clothes, regardless of whether it is sunny.”
Richmond also highlights the ethnic sector as being ripe for future development. “Whitening is a common claim within skin care, targeting people with darker skin tones. All this market needs is a little investment in sun protection factor, rather than using whitening pigment, to help people remain their natural colour without going darker in the sun.”
Future products will be able to use new technologies, which may revolutionise current thinking on sun protection. For example nanotechnology is already used in sunscreens, with some products containing nanoparticles of titanium dioxide to support claims that by drawing sun protection deeper into the skin, it is possible to achieve lasting protection that won't rub or wash off as easily. Whether these types of sunscreens are fully accepted is likely to depend on communicating the benefits effectively to consumers dubious about the safety credentials of such products.
A much heralded potential extension of the sun care market is oral supplements. These are beginning to reach the market with Lycored recently gaining a patent for a composition of lycopene, phytoene and phytofluene that is claimed to have a potential use in sun protection. But according to research by Mintel the general public will require some education on the benefits of such products; fewer than one in ten people interviewed deemed sun protection as a credible claim for a food or drink product. At Beiersdorf Ruppert agrees and plays down the role of oral supplements: “At Nivea we think that oral supplements will not play a major role in the future because the protective effect of such products are quite limited compared to sunscreen lotions, creams or sprays. They will only become an additional treatment, not a substitute for topical sunscreens.”