Corbion Esterlac Care+ NG: A sensory enhancer for rinse-off products

Brenntag Cosmetics EMEA is very excited to present Esterlac Care+ NG (INCI Sodium Isostearoyl Lactylate), an anionic co-surfactant specifically designed to enhance your rinse-off formulations

Brenntag Cosmetics EMEA is very excited to present Esterlac Care+ NG (INCI Sodium Isostearoyl Lactylate), an anionic co-surfactant specifically designed to enhance your rinse-off formulations.

Esterlac Care+ NG is a natural co-surfactant used in sulfate-free formulations 100% active (not diluted version), suitable to develop unique formulations of cleaners, body washes, hair conditioners and shampoos due to its specific ability to bring superior substantivity on hair fibres.

This readily biodegradable lactylate is a very interesting option for an amide-free, sulphate-free, silicone-free formulation, which is bio based and conforms to vegan certification.

This raw material meets the current consumers’ needs of safe, sustainable, mild ingredients. Esterlac Care+ NG improves the overall natural formulation quality.

Brenntag Cosmetics EMEA has conducted extensive sensory analysis to demonstrate the influence of Esterlac Care+ NG on hair during the different stages of washing with shampoos and conditioners.

Esterlac Care+ NG has proven to deliver superior performance in both shampoos (Esterlac Care+ NG versus Cocamide MEA) and conditioners (with and without Esterlac Care+ NG.).

The summary of performances in shampoos at all stages are shown in the following graph.

Graph: Sensory analysis of 2 shampoos formulations, one contains 2% Esterlac Care+ NG and the other one contains 2% of Cocamide MEA (P: product; F: foam ; W: wet and D: Dry stage)

At the foam stage, Esterlac Care+ NG boosts the development of the foam (Foam Speed +60%) and the volume of the foam is higher than Cocamide MEA (Foam Volume +50%).

At the wet stage, foaming properties are boosted and easily washed off (Easy to rinse + 25%). The ability of Esterlac Care+ NG to be substantive on hair is higher than cocamide MEA (Easy to detangle + 20%) and the coating attribute is much higher than the coating for cocamide MEA, which again demonstrates that the deposition of keratin is higher for ESTERLAC Care+ NG than cocamide MEA.

At the dry stage, most of the key sensory attributes for the shampoo containing Esterlac Care+ NG are also boosted versus Cocamide MEA.

For instance, the volume of hair swatches is two times higher than for the amide’s shampoo. The gloss is also improved (attribute Shiny + 50%).

The perception of the panellist having their hair cleaned also shows an improvement of the cleanness attribute of + 25% as well an improvement of hair flexibility (sensory attribute is two times higher).

This demonstrates that the Esterlac Care+ NG reinforces the hair cuticle. The ability to detangle the hair at the dry stage is boosted and comparable to that of the wet stage (easy to detangle +40%), reduced static electricity (-12%), as well as increased softness and slipperiness of the hair, respectively at + 33% and +60%, all of which contribute to a better combing experience.

The perception of dryness (opposite of moisturised) is lower by 25%, means the hair fibres are highly moisturised after shampooing due to the lactylate part of the co-surfactant.

Picture: Hair fibre before and after 3 treatments with ESTERLAC™ CARE+ NG (MEB)

Esterlac Care+ NG has extremely high binding affinity with only damaged proteins like cysteine, resulting in no residual build-up like quaterniums or silicones.

Esterlac Care+ repairs damaged hair when implemented via a shampoo or conditioner.

A shampoo containing 3% Esterlac Care+ delivers improved conditioning effects for the hair.

In a second study, the same sensory analysis was also conducted on hair conditioners to assess the performance with and without Esterlac Care+ NG. The results of this study will be published soon.

A webinar on the complete results will be provided online. For more information please contact us via cosmetics-europe@brenntag.de

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