in-cosmetics Asia 2011 takes place in the Thai capital Bangkok, alongside the IFSCC and the SCCT\'s international technical conference and ingredient exhibition for a series of events dubbed ‘Beauty Week in Bangkok’. As well as international cosmetic ingredients suppliers, attendees can expect to meet with companies from Thailand, South Korea, China, Japan, India and Malaysia. SPC Aisa looks at what exhibitors have lined up
This year sees the return of in-cosmetics Asia to Thai capital Bangkok and a collaboration with the IFSCC and the SCCT in what has been dubbed ‘Beauty Week in Bangkok’. SPC Asia will be at both events. Don't forget to visit us on stand H46 at in-cosmetics Asia
For the first time, this year the organisers of in-cosmetics Asia have joined forces with the IFSCC (International Federation of the Societies of Cosmetic Chemists) and the SCCT (Society of Cosmetic Chemists Thailand) in a bid to deliver the best possible programme of activity for the industry. From 31 October-2 November the IFSCC will host its annual international technical conference at the Centara Hotel, with in-cosmetics Asia following with its ingredient exhibition from 2-4 November at BITEC.
Cathy Laporte, group marketing manager at in-cosmetics Asia said: “The collaboration with the IFSCC will create the largest cosmetics gathering in Asia this year. Together these events present a unique opportunity for any organisation or individual working within the personal care industry in Asia to meet the key industry players and learn the latest developments, so shouldn’t be missed!”
in-cosmetics Asia will host over 250 suppliers, including over 50 first-time exhibitors, which will make the event the largest in its four-year history.
Exhibitors will include both major international players and smaller niche companies from Thailand, South Korea, China, Japan, India and Malaysia, plus there will be a new First Time Exhibitor Pavilion.
As usual the event will also include an education programme comprising Formulation Workshops, Marketing Trends Presentations, Innovation Seminars and an Innovation Zone featuring the latest new ingredient launches and innovative finished products.
Here’s a taster of what the exhibitors have lined up.
Arch Personal Care Products
Arch Personal Care Products develops plant bioactives from difficult to source plants, using ecologically-sound plant cell reactors. On display will be a range of the company’s latest ingredients including ReGeniStem Red Rice, an anti-ageing active derived from Himalayan red rice and PhytoBrasil, a line of sustainably sourced extracts comprising botanicals indigenous to Brazil.
Biogenics provides innovative and powerful solutions for the promotion of beauty and health care. The company will be highlighting BioGenic ALA, an odourless antioxidant which is easy to formulate and is recommended for anhydrous anti-ageing lotions and protective creams.
Bioland is dedicated to developing active ingredients from natural sources for use in cosmetic, nutraceutical and pharmaceutical industries. The company will be showcasing Bio-Frge, a fermented Korean red ginseng extract produced from high fermentation technology of sochibios to increase the anti-ageing property of red ginseng. Bio-Frge also contains various kinds of ginsenosides for an anti-ageing effect.
Established in 2001, Caregen offers a line of bio-mimetic peptides and purified growth factors. Amongst the products showcased at in-cosmetics Asia will be CG-ASP, a pentapeptide-13 which can be used in skin care to produce a lightening effect.
Corel Pharma Chem
Established in 1990 with a vision to develop and manufacture next generation polymers, Corel Pharma Chem is headquartered in Ahmedabad, India. The company says it is a rapidly emerging acrylic-based polymer excipient manufacturing company for the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. A total of 75% of its business is export to 35 countries, with its polymers complying with international standards including USP/NF and EP specifications, plus USDMF, Halal and Kosher certificates are available for all products in the range.
Cosmetochem Usnea barbata
Cosmetochem will launch two new cosmetic actives: usNeo and Sereniks. Addressing the growing trend for effective, plant-based actives usNeo is described as a naturally effective deodorant and antibacterial active. Derived from the alpine lichen Usnea barbata, it has both in vitro and in vivo claims data support. It is said to have an excellent antibacterial profile against Gram positive bacteria and in particular those known to cause body odour, while preserving normal skin flora. Sereniks is a patent-pending, plant-based active with clinically proven efficacy against photo-ageing and inflammation. Based on Canadian Tsuga canadensis, it is said to mimic the balancing and protecting activity of the plant and its ability to shield the skin from damage caused by the sun and other sources of stress such as chemical agents. Supported by extensive in vitro and in vivo data it is described as an essential component of anti-ageing skin care.
Courage & Khazaka
Courage & Khazaka’s Visiopor USB camera for monitoring the fluorescent secretion of acne bacteria now features evaluation software, which is particularly interesting for testing the efficacy of antibacterial products and cleansers. Scientific measurement methods are not only used for efficacy testing and claim support but also to establish consumer skin type at point of sale to help recommend the most appropriate product regime, thus helping to increase turnover and to distinguish from competitors. Courage & Khazaka will also be featuring a new family of devices for cosmetic promotion at point of sale. Devices to measure moisture, oil, skin ageing and colour can be used with or without software and can be customised to meet the look of respective product brands.
Dow Corning offers an array of emulsifying solutions and technical expertise. For example, its silicone emulsifiers provide broader options for the oil phase and expanded texture and sensory possibilities. Also on show will be hair repair solutions for heat damaged hair and hair styling and conditioning provided by a single product.
Dr Straetmans says it provides innovative solutions in times of growing concern about the destruction of natural resources and biodiversity. Dermofeel GSC (glyceryl stearate citrate) has been in the market for many years and is used as a reliable o/w emulsifier based on RSPO-certified palm oil derivatives. To make things 100% transparent the company has now introduced Dermofeel GSC palm oil free based on locally produced rape seed oil, saving transportation and respecting biodiversity at the same time.
DSM’s Regu-Fade skin lightening ingredient claims to provide noticeably brighter skin in two weeks and in-cosmetics Asia represents the Asia launch for the ingredient. Customers are said to have been particularly impressed with the fast in vivo efficacy, the product’s high purity and its comprehensive in vitro results. Regu-Fade evens and brightens skin tone using pure, nature-identical resveratrol that addresses high consumer awareness about safety and visible effects. Resveratrol is a potent antioxidant found in red grapes and associated with various health benefits. DSM scientists have shown that Regu-Fade attenuates skin pigmentation via multiple mechanisms, from initial signalling and gene expression to melanin production and final melanosome transfer.
Evonik says it draws on a tradition of quality and creativity coupled with a deep sense of responsibility when producing its products. It significantly reduces energy consumption, cuts down emissions and wastewater and ensures the responsible use of natural feedstocks with sophisticated documentation. The company will be showcasing new, low-viscous emollient Tegosoft AC, tetrapeptide Tego Pep 4-Even and sulfosuccinate Rewopol SB C 55 among other products at the event.
With the opening of its new office in Malaysia this year, first-time exhibitor Fenchem will be turning its focus to the opportunities presented by the south east Asian cosmetic market. The company will present a series of skin care, sun care and hair care products, including Tocovet tocopherols, silicone oils, polyquaternium series and sun care products.
International supplier of speciality pharmaceutical and cosmetic ingredients, Gattefossé will be promoting its new anti-ageing active ingredient Malt Secrets. A concentrate of purified polyphenols, this is derived from a collaboration between the company’s research and a famous brewing company as the vegetable source used is malted barley. A patented purification process results in a concentrated extract rich in oligo proanthocyanidins (OPCs).
French manufacturer of natural custom-made ingredients for the cosmetics industry, ID Bio is extending its actives range with two new ingredients that will be unveiled at the show: a skin lightening active and a tensor ingredient.
Innospec manufactures and sells speciality surfactants, emollients, conditioners, chelating agents and dispersants for the personal care market. Innospec also offers expertise in sulphate-free technologies for hair and skin cleansing applications, with a range of products including the Pureact isethionate and Taurate surfactants and Iselux. Products also include the multifunctional Finsolv benzoate ester emollients, which are solubilisers for actives including sunscreens and fragrance, and the Dispersun dispersing agents for pigment dispersion of inorganic sunscreens. Innospec will also showcase its new sulphate-free surfactant toolkit at in-cosmetics Asia 2011, with a variety of sulphate-free surfactants and an extensive range of formulations to help formulators develop cost effective products.
One of the finalists in the Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Awards at in-cosmetics in Milan this year, IRB will officially present Marrubium vulgare stems G. The product is specifically designed to ensure multiphase protection through radical scavenging and maximisation of the defence systems of the skin from external stress. Based on Marrubium vulgare cultured stem cells, the ingredient contains phenylpropanoid forsythoside B, a potent inducer of skin detoxification through activation of Nrf2 transcription factor. Marrubium vulgare stems G are said to be ideal in any detoxifying and anti-stress formulation as well as in anti-ageing treatments.
KAT Personal Care
First time exhibitor KAT Personal Care is a Malaysian GMP certified company manufacturing melts and pour glycerine soap base, specialising in three types of glycerine soap base: transparent, opaque and SLS-free. The bases are described as cost effective with good moisturising effects and high foaming. Soaps can be produced in a variety of different shapes and are said to be highly versatile with good fragrance and additive compatibility. A customised service is available for producing gift soaps and cosmetic cleansing bars. KAT says it offers soap noodles for bath and toiletries products at very competitive prices. In addition the company provides contract manufacturing for a wide range of cosmetic products (from head to toe) and can provide its own laboratory and R&D teams.
In order to address the issue of achieving high SPF values while simultaneously delivering multiple benefits, Kobo has created SunBoost ATB, a blend of antioxidants, anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory agents which, when used in sunscreens, is said to boost SPF scores by more than 30% while delivering multiple antioxidant benefits such as anti-ageing, hydration, rejuvenation and anti-irritation. Kobo has combined SunBoost ATB with a transparent TiO2 dispersion, TNP50T7, to provide a more powerful inorganic UV filter dispersion. TNP50T7-ATB can provide up to 4.5 SPF units for each percent of TiO2 in sunscreen formulas while delivering all the benefits of the antioxidants contained in SunBoost ATB, says Kobo. According to market studies, the demand for antioxidant-fortified products in cosmeceutical applications is increasing by 8-10% annually with vitamins A, E, and C having the highest demand. Kobo says its multifunctional SunBoost ATB will help satisfy this demand while providing two essential factors for healthy skin maintenance: antioxidant activity and sun protection.
Lessonia has specialised in exfoliators and micronised seaweeds and plants for the spa market and now offers not only 50 micron powders for spa products but also less than 25 micron powders to formulate natural make-up products. Microzest 25 are plants and dry plant extracts micronised at 25 microns to reveal intense colours. This range is said to be ideal for formulating natural and ecofriendly make-up products as a substitute for minerals or chemical micronised powders. Plant pigments are surface treated with a Lessonia patented natural surface treatment that facilitates the dispersion of the pigment within the oily phase. The colour obtained is said to be more homogeneous, with coverage and adherence of the pigments improved. Pressed powders are also said to be more resistant and easy to bind with the final products being smoother. In the same range, the company will present a micronised rice powder with multifunctional properties for both skin care and make-up, allowing the development of formulations with a soft silky touch and an anti-shine appearance thanks to sebum absorption properties.
New for in-cosmetics Asia 2011 is Phosal 40 IP, a liquid phospholipid compound based on all natural ingredients consisting of 40% non-GMO phosphatidylcholine, organic sunflower seed oil, organic ethanol and natural mixed tocopherols.
Lonza’s portfolio ranges from nature-derived skin actives and functional ingredients to highly efficient preservation systems. The company says its Glydant Glycacil and Glydant plus liquid preservatives are cost effective, versatile and easy to use. For preservation of certified organic cosmetics, Lonza also has Ecocert, Soil Association and Natrue compliant solutions through its Geogard product range. Its natural Polyaldo polyglycerol esters are derived from renewable resources and are also Ecocert, Natrue and Soil Association compliant. These PEG-free, cost-efficient products are used as emulsifiers and co-surfactants for bath and shower products. The company’s natural skin actives include: Natrulon RC-100 L-carnitine to promote healthy skin on a cellular level; Laracare A200 galactoarabinan, a natural and multifunctional film former that enhances sunscreen performance; SeaPure agarose, derived from seaweed, a neutral rheology modifier with exceptionally high gel strength; and vitamin B3/niacinamide to improve skin texture.
Expand your possibilities to create dazzling cosmetic formulations and forget your concerns about possible heavy metal content, says Merck. With a particle size between 10 and 40 µm, the company’s cosmetic pigments Colorona SynBronze, Colorona SynCopper and Colorona SynCranberry are designed to add brilliant shine, a luxurious skin feel and rich metallic tones to all cosmetic applications. The pigments are said to have a remarkably low heavy metal content and exceed even the strictest requirements. The pure substrate and luminous masstone colours enable a multitude of formulation possibilities. Colorona SynBronze, Colorona SynCopper and Colorona SynCranberry can be incorporated easily into all cosmetic formulations, including colour cosmetics, personal care and skin care products.
Ruicolor says it is regarded as one of the leading manufacturers and exporters of hair colour intermediates and cosmetic materials from China. Ingredients available include: PVP K30/K90; SLES 70% 2EO; polyquaternium-7/11/39; EDTA 2NA/4NA; and hair colour intermediates.
Schülke & Mayr
Schülke & Mayr
Schülke has extended its sensiva range of multifunctional cosmetic additives with the introduction of sensiva PA 20, a synergistic blend of phenethyl alcohol and ethylhexylglycerin said to provide excellent antimicrobial activity. It combines the skin care and deodorising properties of ethylhexylglycerin with the antimicrobial properties of phenethyl alcohol and is suitable for use in a wide range of cosmetic leave-on applications. Cosmetic formulators are looking for ways to keep their products microbiologically stable without the use of traditional preservative systems. Phenethyl alcohol is a nature-identical fragrance ingredient with a mild, flowery, rose-like scent which can mask possible unpleasant odours of other ingredients. It is effective against typical germs found in cosmetics. Ethylhexylglycerin is well known as a booster for preservatives and antimicrobial actives and enhances the antimicrobial properties of phenethyl alcohol. The multifunctional ingredient is also described as a mild humectant and an excellent solution for the microbial stabilisation of cosmetic leave-on products.
Sederma will present its latest innovative cosmetic ingredients as well as a new test of the well-known Matrixyl 3000, which confirms its repairing effect to promote wrinkle smoothing and improve skin tone and elasticity. Produced by plant cell culture, Resistem is an anti-ageing ingredient that mimics the natural hormetic phenomenon of defence. It helps skin decrease the level of pro-ageing agents and the toxin-induced micro inflammations by maintaining proteasome activity in order to restore skin’s natural glow. The anti-ageing protection offered by Resistem also includes tissue regeneration by preservation of skin stem cell character and niche, and cell life span extension by stimulation of the sirtuin-1 synthesis. Based on a vitaminated matrikine complex, Widelash acts positively on accentuating the natural appearance of the eyelashes and their anchorage to reduce eyelash loss. By fortifying the hair fibre and bulb, the rate of cell multiplication at the level of the root sheath is increased, improving keratinocyte synthesis and thus hair fibre production. Widelash promises improved eyelash length, increased eyelash thickness and volume, and fortifying effect. Sederma will also present its newest active dedicated to lessening skin’s signs of fatigue.
Japanese company Seiwa Kasei offers high-performance products based on peptides and/or amino acids and formulation examples. In addition to the core products Promois – variant hydrolysed proteins and their derivatives from natural resources – the company will be showcasing some new functional ingredients based on its original technology including: Silasoma, an encapsulated UV filter for sensitive skin, and Amitose, an arginine/glycerin derivative promising high moisturisation with good absorbancy properties.
Seppic is promising a new green-based emulsifier with an improved sensory profile. The natural formulation trend has introduced new challenges for the formulator, especially for product development according to organic or natural labels with limited ingredient choice. How do you combine stability requirements and aesthetics, particularly the prevention of an unpleasant soapy effect during application that is often faced with the simultaneous use of vegetable oils and natural gums? Seppic says Simulgreen 18-2 provides the solution. This new emulsifier is also said to demonstrate powerful emulsifying properties with a wide range of oils as well as an improved viscosity resistance in formulations rich in electrolyte active ingredients.
Setalg offers three types of products: peel-off and rinse-off bases, standard formulations and product customisation. Its 100% natural microwavable mask will be showcased at in-cosmetics Asia. This is said to provide instant relaxation, optimal opening of skin pores and better penetration of actives.
Stem cell activity decreases with age which leads to skin ageing. To optimise and preserve keratinocyte stem cell functioning, Silab has developed Stem-C-Guard, a purified peptide-rich active ingredient derived from peas. Stem-C-Guard, described as the stem cell guardian, is said to save the phenotype of keratinocyte stem cells by increasing their protection and their potential for self-renewal and adhesion, preserving the capacity of progenitor cells to build a functional epidermis. Under the effect of Stem-C-Guard, skin is said to be regenerated, with the micro-relief smoothed and radiance brightened. The ingredient can be incorporated into all anti-ageing facial care products.
This French group is a global fragrance creator and manufacturer and the company says innovation and technology are its key drivers. With a strong natural philosophy and a commitment to shaping the future of the next generation of fragrance, Technico Flor has created new fragrance families. Natfairs is a range of 100% natural fragrance compounds with fairly sourced and traded natural materials; Natflors is a line of 100% natural fragrance compounds complying with Ecocert standards; and Ecolabels is a line of original fragrance compounds which reject the substances most hazardous to health and the environment.
Products on display from Vivimed Labs will include Etone, a highly effective SPF booster; Vintox, for anti-ageing; Vividine, a proven hair growth active; and Vivinol, for skin lightening and age spot reduction. The company’s full range of hair dyes is marketed under the Jarocol trade name.
Zschimmer & Schwarz
Mulsifan CAO is a new range of five almond oil-based emulsifiers. They cover the whole range of HLB values which are essential for the formulation of both w/o and o/w emulsions. Four of the five emulsifiers are liquid at room temperature so enable the production of both w/o and o/w emulsions in energy efficient cold process. The almond oil as a base for the Mulsifan CAO range brings its emollient character to the molecules and forms them into emollient emulsifiers. By combining the different emulsifiers, the emollient character of a finished formulation can be significantly influenced via the emulsifier system.