Cyclomethicone is a member of the silicone (synthetic oils) family. This name relates to several volatile silicones, also known as siloxanes. These very tactile materials are used in easy spreading cosmetics. They feel soft to the skin and leave a silky powdery feel, providing a protective layer with physiological benefits (emolliency) and a receptive base for the deposition of actives and/or pigments.
The use of silicones (and cyclomethicone) has spanned over 50 years in the cosmetics industry and the silicone industry is predicted to grow to €2bn by 2017 in the health and personal care markets.
Current consumer trends are towards natural cosmetics, partly due to consumer perception that synthetic materials are harmful to health. Authorities in Europe and Canada are satisfied that cyclomethicone (particularly cyclotetrasiloxane D4 and cyclopentasiloxane D5) pose no risk to human health. Investigations however continue into possible environmental risks, given that these materials are very stable, bio-concentrated and non-biodegradable.
This essay establishes the properties of decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane (D5) and its uses in decorative cosmetics and proposes alternatives to keep the industry ‘on trend’.
Synthetic oils
Silicon (Si) is an inorganic mineral, naturally present as silicon dioxide (silica) or as silicates (most commonly magnesium or aluminium silicate). Silicon can bond with itself (as can carbon), to form chains or ring structures. Silicones are organic materials, composed of Si-O bonds arranged in linear chains or as ring structures. Physical and chemical properties of silicones are determined by: molecular shape (linear silicones, such as dimethicone, are inert clear liquids, whereas low molecular weight cyclomethicones are volatile and more soluble in organic materials); types of alkyl side chains present; functional groups present (eg ether groups make the material more hydrophilic); and cross-linking and/or polymerisation to elastomers/waxes or to resins/rubbers.
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