Retinoids to peptides: 5 hero ingredients being optimised in skin care

By Jo Allen | Published: 16-Mar-2026

They’re not new, they’re better than ever. Retinoids, peptides, vitamin C, ceramides and niacinamide are being upgraded for the latest skin care products

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This article was originally published in Cosmetics Business’ Skin Care Trend Report. Receive your copy here


Beauty enthusiasts love a new ingredient, particularly when it comes to skin care. From ectoin to exosomes, there is no shortage of buzzing actives for consumers to leap on. But when it comes to skin care science, the trends that shape development are not always based on the next new thing.

Mark Curry, co-founder of The Inkey List tells Cosmetics Business:

“It’s not always about new ingredients, it’s about better ones. The truth is, the heavy hitters are already here.”

These heavy hitters are retinoids, vitamin C, niacinamide, peptides and ceramides, ingredients which, Curry says “are some of the most rigorously proven tools we have in skin care.”

And they have something else in common: a trend which is seeing brands both reformulate and create entirely new products based on the latest iterations of each of these powerhouse molecules. These stalwarts of skin care are being reimagined through the latest advances in technology to meet higher expectations for efficacy and skin tolerance.

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