With an increase in exhibitor and visitor figures, SCS Formulate 2006 (28-29 November) was the busiest ever. SPC reports
After the adverse weather conditions of the previous year the Society of Cosmetic Scientists (SCS) could have been forgiven for feeling apprehensive about the 2006 SCS Formulate event, but any fears were laid to rest as bright winter sunshine welcomed a record numbers of visitors to the Telford International Centre.
For the first time the event had an official opening with a welcome from SCS president, Chris Nichols. “We do appreciate you all coming,” he said. But he also pointed out the incongruity of the fact that around 80% of visitors to the show were not actually members. “Do come and visit the SCS stand to pick up information,” he said. And anybody who didn’t get the chance can still visit www.scs.org.uk.
The event, organised by the SCS in association with Step, reported the highest number of advance registrations and record on-site attendance for the two-day event, boosting visitor numbers by over 5% to 669. The number of exhibitors also increased, swelling to 150, triple the number that exhibited at the first show in 1999.
The success of the show, now in its eighth year, has also attracted an increased number of international visitors. Though aimed primarily at UK cosmetic companies, 66 overseas visitors attended the show, including two Nigerian chemists who had flown over especially for the exhibition. One UK visitor commented: “This is the first time I have been here and it’s nice and small. You can get around quickly which is a big plus. Normally I run out of steam half way through a show so it’s good that this is not too overwhelming. I also found the workshops very interesting.”
Coty’s Mike Cross, immediate past president of the SCS, added: “Formulate is a great social event where you can meet all your customers under one roof. We are not trying to be another In-Cosmetics, this is more about getting chemists here.”
The general consensus among exhibitors was also very positive, with many claiming the event had generated important new business opportunities. “What makes the show so good is the quality of the visitor,” explained Seatons’ business development executive, Sue Pritchard. “We are interested in the people that do the lab work - formulators, chemists, etc and this is the place where you get to talk to them.” Univar’s personal care marketing assistant, Samantha Price was equally pleased with the level of interest. “This has been a really good year for us and we have had more enquiries than last year,” she said. “The booth has been really busy and the quality of enquiries has been very high.” Nash Oils’ Emma Nash said: “I haven’t been busy quite all the time but there is a very good atmosphere and you wouldn’t get this anywhere else.” And one French exhibitor remarked that he was very much enjoying his time at the show. “It’s my fifth year at SCS Formulate... it’s better than In-Cosmetics,” he said.
In 2005 the SCS held its first Formulate dinner on the evening of the first day. This was a huge success and was back, bigger and more elaborate for 2006. Held in an adjoining hall at the International centre and organised by S Black’s Dene Godfrey, the event was the talk of the exhibition the next day. With great secrecy and meticulous planning, a funfair complete with dodgems, bucking bronco, a shooting range and a coconut shy had been installed for the after dinner entertainment and provided hours of fun for guests, so much so that there were more than a few sore limbs the following morning. It will take some beating this year.
Service with a smile
Alongside the more established exhibitors, a number of companies made their debut at Formulate. Skinnovation, a specialist in formulation development for colour cosmetics, skin and sun care and claims support advice chose the exhibition to unveil its new logo. “This is the first time we’ve had a stand at Formulate but we are very pleased with the results,” said managing director Jack Ferguson. “It has given people an opportunity to come by and say hello and we have had some serious enquires from this.”
Exhibitors promoting formulating and consulting services have an increasing presence at the show. ParticlesCIC, which exhibited at the show for the first time in 2005, returned on the back of its successful debut. “We found the show very useful and picked up some good contacts when we first exhibited,” explained director Simon Lawson. “We decided to come back because it’s a good way to enter new markets such as cosmetics.” The company is part of Leeds University’s Industrial Centre of Particle Science and Engineering department but conducts commercial services for particle analysis. It recently secured a business alliance with Malvern Instruments to undertake paid characterisation services for the equipment specialist. “It is unusual for a university department to take on commercial services but we are finding that is it an area with growth potential,” Lawson continued.
Botanic focus
The use of natural and botanical ingredients is a continuing trend in cosmetic science and not surprisingly was a main focus at the show. Symrise focused on repair and protection with its latest launches SymRepair and IBR-dormin, which were shown to the UK market for the first time. “There is a strong demand for botanicals from our customers and we are being asked for natural and organic actives with multifuncionality,” explained head of cosmetic ingredients, UK and Ireland, Andrew Short. “Anti-irritant botanicals, preservative-free products and Ayurvedic skin lightening products are particularly popular at the moment.”
Croda subsidiary Seatons showcased two new seed oils - cranberry and pomegranate - as well as its Seaqua water emulsifiable oils. “People are looking for new, unique, premium products in the naturals sector,” The company’s Pritchard told SPC. “Cold pressed oils are doing very well as a result.”
French ingredients specialist Gattefossé unveiled its latest emulsifier, Emulium Kappa to UK customers. The emulsifier, which debuted at In-Cosmetics, is PEG-free, derived from vegetable waxes and is said to be a good solution for customers looking for a natural alternative. “It allows the creation of active texture and gives the same sensorial profile as silicone elastomers,” explained operational marketing director Laurent Schubnel. “The cushioning effect and rich texture makes it ideal for skin care applications such as night cream.”
Fair trade
The trend for naturals also overflowed into the area of sustainability and the responsibility companies have to local producers and manufacturers. French company Aldivia, exhibiting for the first time, highlighted the need to do more in this area. It has created a working partnership with a South African natural products trade association, PytoTrade, to ensure environmental sustainability and a long-term fair trade commitment to farmers and other rural producers. “Our passion is the promotion of green products,” said ceo Pierre Charlier de Chily “We have the technology to make lipids and oils and we want to share this with the farmers, to transfer know-how. We are helping with sustainable development - the only company to do this.” The company has created a charter to underline the importance of fair trade and a line of natural oils, Ubuntu Natural, that adhere to the guidelines. “We are directly promoting this line and the results have been very good so far,” added Charlier de Chily.
Trendsetters
In addition to the main show there were a number of paid workshops and free technical presentations on new products and trends.
Liquidrock continued the green theme with a look at the role it will play in consumer products and lifestyle over the next 18 months. Liquidrock’s marketing director, Fiona Rauh explained how proof of sourcing will play an important role in consumer marketing. “Homeland importance and local provenance are going to become more important than other green issues such as organic,” she said. “There will be a growth in eco-militancy. This has already produced the desire for organic products but it is going to be taken one step further into biodynamics - how things are grown.”
Kline similarly identified the importance of naturals in its workshop, Trends in the Cosmetic & Toiletries Market in the UK. Project manager Deirdre McNulty explained: “Natural ingredients are a definite trend. Consumers prefer to buy natural, plant-derived products.”