Are wrinkles and acne in older skin the ultimate challenge for the skin care industry? Asks Katerina Steventon
Resolving skin concerns of a middle-aged woman presents a serious challenge for the skin care industry. More women over the age of 40 than expected struggle with, and seek, a skin care solution for two opposing concerns: mild acne as well as lines and wrinkles at the forehead and eye area of their face.
At middle age, recurring acne, that they believe should have been resolved many years ago, becomes increasingly frustrating. It makes women feel self-conscious, influencing both their professional and personal life. When looking at other people’s faces, we are unconsciously trying to differentiate between the signs of health and age, represented by pigmentation and wrinkles of facial skin. Any deviation from flawless skin, considered to be the beauty ideal in our society, impacts negatively on judgement of our health and attractiveness.
Wrinkles reflect primarily our age. More lines and wrinkles make people look older and less attractive. When talking to people, we focus on their eyes. Our eye is able to detect even a 20% change in skin surface topography, ie wrinkle depth, particularly on the forehead or around the eye area. Uneven skin colouration – including acne lesions, post acne pigmentation, scarring and conspicuous facial pores – is perceived as an aesthetic defect that reflects primarily skin health. Although skin types have never been unambiguously defined, research suggests that up to 40% of Caucasian women have a combination skin type and a similar percentage of women suffer from occasional facial acne and the consequences of its inadequate healing.
Market research shows that women tend to misdiagnose their skin type and overestimate the oiliness of their facial skin. The reason for this behaviour is cultural; oily and shiny facial skin is an unattractive feature and the issue becomes more prominent in their minds, creating a vicious cycle. Women with acne experience serious psychological effects, comparable to patients with psoriasis, particularly when over the age of 40 and not seeing any improvement in the condition. These include depression, anxiety and embarrassment that can lead to social inhibition and potentially higher unemployment.
While teenage acne affects the oily T-zone, adult acne is located in the lower region of the face, mainly the chin. Stress and hormonal issues contribute to acne by stimulating sebum production and compromising the epidermal barrier function of facial skin.
Murad and SkinCeuticals offer products that tackle signs of ageing and adult acne simultaneously
Growth in the number of middle-aged women concerned about wrinkles and acne presents an opportunity for the skin care industry. Adult acne was a topic of interest at the Wound Congress of Dermatology this year and new skin care products specifically designed for adult skin with acne are being launched, such as Olay Professional Pro-X Clear, SkinCeuticals’ Blemish + Age line and the Anti-Aging Acne Regimen from Murad. The target customer group has a high motivation, and disposable income, to address their concerns. They consider having healthy facial skin important and are prepared to pay to find a skin care solution.
There aren’t many skin care products marketed for a combination skin type that have been proven to resolve both concerns successfully. Functional skin care formulation should aim to optimise age or disease related alterations of key skin biological processes. In both instances, these are primarily the epidermal barrier function, sebum excretion as well as the structure of the dermal-epidermal junction.
Given the prevalence of the combination skin type in middle-aged women, a new approach would suggest seeing combination skin as having both dry and oily skin type areas and selecting skin care products accordingly. Recognising that a routine for oily and dry areas should have a different emphasis would promote moving away from the outdated concept of one size fits all in skin care. Richer textures of anti-ageing creams often impact adversely on the oily skin areas, leading to more breakouts.
The focus of the routine specific to the oily areas is on cleansing, exfoliation and optimising sebum production, while the routine specific for the dry skin areas should primarily encourage moisturisation with anti-ageing benefits.
There is more understanding within the skin care industry that it is the diligent application of skin care that delivers clinical benefit. Skin care kits have been found to increase compliance due to the convenience of following a prescriptive skin care regime. Translating the latest research to the skin care consumer and applying it in the context of their day-to-day busy life is essential in encouraging best practice in skin care.
Research shows that even a small change in skin surface topography affects the perception of a woman’s age and attractiveness. Well formulated skin care should be able to do just that – alleviate our emotional issues by making our skin look healthier.