Skin care – Upping the ante

New ingredients and technologies are bringing a wealth of product development opportunities to the skin care market, as Emma Reinhold reports

In the fight against ageing, skin care has a new arsenal. From groundbreaking dermatological discoveries to a new generation of high tech ingredients, skin care is coming of age and science is playing a key role in communicating this.

“Innovation in skin care has become more sophisticated and the focus is now firmly on the ingredients and product efficacy,” explains Irina Barbalova, head of global beauty and personal care research, Euromonitor International. “We are seeing more and more sophisticated and specialised products launching on the market and the consumer response has been good.”

“What's interesting is that skin care has become so much more scientific,” adds Julie McManus, head of scientific and technical regulatory affairs at L'Oréal. “The science behind skin care is really taking off - we are learning so much about the skin and can go into far more detail than ever before.”

Along with the ability to screen ingredients for different skin care needs such as hydration or anti-ageing McManus tells SPC L’Oréal is working on areas such as gene sequencing and what happens to those genes as we age. “Once we know what's happening to our skin we can really start making a difference.”

The beauty giant's latest discovery intends to do just that. Following ten years of research, L'Oréal claims to have found new ways to boost radiance and skin elasticity in the skin. It has discovered that by targeting the papillary dermis (a superficial part of the dermis made up of finger-like projections that extend towards the epidermis and marketed by L'Oréal as the Derm Source) with anti-ageing ingredients, it is possible to achieve exceptional rejuvenating results.

Using technology from the pharmaceutical industry, the group found that rhamnose, a simple sugar derived from a Brazilian plant, can stimulate fibroblasts that have been affected by the ageing process, facilitating an increase in pro collagen levels, strengthening the dermal/epidermal junction and increasing epidermal thickness, helping skin look smoother, suppler, firmer, plumper and more luminous.

L'Oréal has used this technology in its new Vichy LiftActiv Derm Source anti-ageing line, which incorporates rhamnose at 5%, and includes two day creams and a night cream. The brand plans to launch a high potency serum with 10% rhamnose later this year along with further line extensions.

“There is a lot of science behind this launch and the future for us is to see how we can affect the Derm Source in the most effective way as well as combining rhamnose with other ingredients such as sun filters,” says McManus.

Plant derived stem cells are another area where science has very much taken a front seat. From a single product launch based on apple stem cells two years ago, the market has been swamped with new products and stem cell ingredients promising protecting, hydrating and rejuvenating properties.

Chantecaille introduced Biodynamic Lifting Neck Cream containing raspberry stem cells which are claimed to repair damaged skin DNA and protect against collagen degradation, helping to moisturise and repair the delicate skin on the neck and décolleté.

The brand will add a serum later this year, which again contains raspberry stem cells combined with a new BioNymph tripeptide derived from the nicotiana plant, said to help activate DNA repair, and lipsomes of carnosine dipeptide and lemon balm which help prevent collagen glycation and enhance the anti-inflammatory properties of the BioNymph peptide.

Helena Rubinstein meanwhile harnessed the power of oceanic crista stem cells, an oceanic plant, in its latest skin care launch, Prodigy Powercell Youth Grafter. The plant is said to have a strong resistance to harsh climates and the stem cells can aid in cellular regeneration, tissue repair and anti-radical defence, according to the brand. Currently the range comprises a serum, eye contour cream and day cream.

And !QMS Medicosmetics has used technology derived from Alpine rose stem cells for Cellular Alpine, an anti-ageing eye cream said to increase skin stem cell vitality and improve the skin's metabolism.

Dior meanwhile has looked at ways to stimulate the skin’s epidermal stem cells through its reformulated Capture Totale line. Through a ‘new understanding of the epidermal stem cell functions’, Dior has created six new products which are claimed to protect epidermal skin cells from toxins and other harsh factors, helping free up the regenerating potential of these cells. The result, says the brand, is firmer, more radiant skin with a significant reduction in fine lines and wrinkles.

And the development of these products has not been restricted to the premium end of the market. Superdrug has extended its Optimum Swiss apple line with an Overnight Renewal Serum containing PhytoCellTec Malus domestica, an active ingredient derived from the Uttwiler Spatlauber apple, and plans to extend the range with similar products containing grape stem cells. L'Oréal meanwhile extended its use of the active ingredient Bio-lysat, used in Lancôme's best selling Genefique Serum, to the mass market with the launch of the L'Oréal Paris Youth Code line.

“Herbal stem cells are a quantum leap in skin science – there is a lot more we can do here,” comments Dr Erich Schulte, founder !QMS Medicosmetics. “However you have to bring them into the body in a way that the body can metabolise them. You can’t put them in just for the sake of it. The future for cosmetics lies in intelligent delivery systems that allow these wanted ingredients to activate and penetrate into the skin without destroying the barrier mechanism.”

!QMS Medicosmetics has also looked at the effect of electrical currents on the skin for its new launch, Ion Skin Equalizer. The two-phase product, comprising a serum and a cream promises to stimulate the skin's collagen and elastin production through the use of E/MC Electric Micro Current technology. When the two products are combined they work together like a battery to help accelerate the flow of mineral ions in the skin. The serum contains zinc and copper ions which are activated when mixed with the cream containing a 'liquid-ion-mineral-conductor, helping the ions generate a gentle microcurrent of electricity over the skin.

While the science behind these launches sounds impressive, the challenge brands have is communicating these advances in a manner that consumers can understand and more importantly buy into.

“The sheer number of products launched and the claims associated with them have produced a certain amount of consumer scepticism in recent years,” explains Vivienne Rudd, senior European beauty analyst, Mintel. “Women know that skin care is not so much about dramatic results as a realistic improvement in lines and wrinkles. They are making informed decisions when they purchase but they still don't want to be blinded with science.”

Peter Thomas Roth has found a simple yet highly effective solution to communicating the active ingredients in its latest anti-ageing product, Un-Wrinkle by using the trade names and concentrations of the ingredients on the labelling. “It demystifies the labelling and adds gravitas to skin care,” explains Rudd. “It's putting skin care directly in the hands of the consumer.”

Rejuvenation after recession

While the influx of new technologies over the last 12 months has given the market a boost in terms of the novel, the uncertain economic outlook is still causing consumer caution at the tills.

“Skin care is still very much driven by budget,” explains Noella Gabriel, director of product and treatment development, Elemis. “Consumers are coming back to their favourite premium brands but they are shopping round for the best deal. Value is still paramount and all markets are having to be competitive.”

In their search for value Gabriel notes many consumers are buying smaller and travel sized versions of their favourite product rather than a full sized pot. This may seem like a false economy but as Gabriel explains: “People don't have the money but they still want the products they love.”

Indeed the insatiable consumer appetite for skin care products has helped keep the market buoyant even through the recession. According to Euromonitor International the global skin care market grew 4.5% to t53,739.1m in 2010. The research analyst cites premium anti-ageing products as a key growth driver although it predicts mass cosmetics will drive future growth in developing markets. Global sales of anti-ageing products jumped 7.4% to t15,088.3m last year and sales are expected to continue their upward trajectory until 2014.

“The consumer landscape is changing – people are living for longer and working for longer, despite obesity levels rising,” says Rudd. “Anti-ageing is still a very dynamic sector, however manufacturers need to shift their marketing.”

Mintel says the number of 33-44 year-olds is falling but in contrast the 55-64 year-old age bracket is growing, accounting for 31% of the population in the US. The number of 65-74 year-old is also on the increase in the US and a similar pattern will emerge in western Europe.

The analyst has identified fine lines and wrinkles as the top ageing concern in France, Germany, the UK, the US, Italy and Spain but dark circles and age spots also feature prominently; 37% of Spanish consumers, 33% of Italians, and 31% of UK consumers cited age spots as a top concern, whilst 38% of French, Italian and Spanish consumers noted dark under-eye circles as a problem.

As a result anti-ageing product development has continued to segment with products offering ever more specialised skin care claims and additional anti-ageing benefits.

“People accept wrinkles now but an even skin tone and radiance are still very important,” says McManus.

“There is a definite trend in the market for products that brighten, provide luminosity and create an even skin tone for a more youthful appearance,” adds Annalise Quest, general merchandise manager, beauty, Harrods. “Customers are definitely more educated than they once were and this drives a need for more efficacious and results driven products than ever before.”

Benefit has focused on the popularity of brightening products in its first full skin range, b.right. As the name suggests, the eight sku range promises to bring radiance and luminosity to skin and has been created in collaboration with LVMH's laboratories division. Products include Total Moisture Facial Cream and It's Potent Eye Cream.

Similarly, Bourjois' natural cosmetics spin off, Une has used skin radiance as a core marketing message for its first foray into skin care. The Une Radiance Programme comprises three products – a 3-in-1 micellar cleansing water, day cream and night cream which contains a blend of 99% natural brightenting ingredients including Moringa oleifera, organic aloe vera, organic shea and Kalahari melon seed oil.

And Estée Lauder has introduced Idealist Even Skin tone illuminator, a fast-acting serum that is claimed to significantly reduce the look of blotchiness, past blemish marks and discolouration.

Clarins has extended its popular Vital Light skin brightening range with a serum said to enhance the benefits of the existing Vital Light products. The serum contains red sandspurry and hexylresorcinol which are said to help fade dark spots; scurvy grass and sleepy morning which brighten age related dull skin, and katafray bark, double action hyaluronic acid and cangzhu root to help smooth and repair lines.

And Decléor has added a Dark Spot Corrector Concentrate to its Excellence De L'Age line, which promises to correct and lighten age spots, whilst evening out skin tone. The cream has been created to treat age spots on the hands and face and contains a cocktail of vitamin C, Bellis extract and Roman chamomile essential oil to help brighten dark spots, while white grape polyphenols and maritime pine protect against the formation of new spots.

The trend has also crept into the super premium market. Crème de La Mer introduced The Radiant Serum, said to target skin dullness and discolouration and La Prairie will introduce a reformulated version of its Cellular Radiance Concentrate Pure Gold, which is claimed to lift, firm, resurface, brighten.

Multitasking solutions

According to SkinCeuticals brand md, Denis Donohoe, 48% of European women in their 30s and 40s still suffer from acne breakouts and current products on the market do not address the skin sensitivity and ageing issues of sufferers in this age group.

“I am seeing more and more patients who are not only concerned with visible signs of skin ageing, but also still suffer with acne breakouts. One reason might be that women concerned with fine lines and wrinkles tend to use anti-ageing products which are usually too lipid rich and can cause breakouts in individuals with oily, acne-prone skin,” explains dermatologist, Dr Stefanie Williams.

In response SkinCeuticals has created Blemish+Age, a first to market range said to treat blemishes and blocked pores, control sebum production and prevent hyperpigmentation, and help minimise the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The three products contain a combination of acids which together are said to reduce the appearance of acne lesions by over 26% in just one week and improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by 27% over a four-week period.

Similarly Murad has introduced Multi-Active Blemish Fighting System, an anti-ageing blemish line which claims to clear skin whilst fighting the signs of ageing. The line includes Time Release Blemish Cleanser, Blemish & Wrinkle Reducer and Anti-Ageing Moisturizer SPF20 PA++.

At the other end of the age spectrum, Elemis has shifted its expertise in anti-ageing to a new focus – young skin. The new freshskin range is aimed at consumers in their teens and 20s, who Noella Gabriel describes as the “inbetweener age group”. The nine sku range includes cleansers, moisturisers, face masks and a lip balm.

Products which address the issues of post surgery skin have also seen a rise in launch activity. According to the British Association of Aesthetic Surgeons, the number of aesthetic procedures undertaken is showing no signs of slowing with facelifts growing by an average of 12% in the past year and the number of surgical procedures carried out by BAAPS members jumping 5% in the same period.

Tapping into this growth, NuBo introduced a highly concentrated serum designed to act against the telltale signs of aesthetic procedures such as botox, filler injections, microdermabrasion, chemical peels and mesotherapy. It is claimed to act against irritation, helping to restructure skin's connective tissue, reducing redness, bruising, swelling and puffiness. And La Roche Posay has launched Cicaplast Pro-Recovery Skincare, designed for flaking, chapped skin and skin that has undergone a cosmetic peel.

Tools of the trade

The popularity of professional treatments is also benefiting the electrical beauty market with manufacturers exploring ‘techno’ alternatives that can provide a professional standard of treatment in the comfort of the consumer’s own home.

“Electrical devices are moving forward,” says Rudd. “The designs are refined to make these products easier to use at home.”

“Techno Beauty has become a huge area of growth and we are constantly seeking newness and points of difference in this area,” adds Quest.

Sonic technology and light therapy have both proved popular areas of development with manufacturers, with products claimed to help reduce lines and wrinkles, clear acne and reduce sensitivity and redness.

The brands Tända and Baby Quasar both use LED light technology, used professionally by dermatologists for almost 40 years, in their systems. The use of blue light is said to help treat blemishes, while the red light helps stimulate collagen levels in the skin to provide anti-ageing benefits.

German brand Squoom has also tapped into the anti-ageing market, developing what it claims is a 'safe alternative to a facelift'. The device uses a mix of ultrasound and ionisation to massage the skin and active muscular tissue, which in turn helps boost skin elasticity.

Meanwhile Clarisonic, the brand behind the Sonicare electric toothbrush, has launched the Mia, a smaller version of its orginal device. It is claimed to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin conditions such as acne and enhance the performance of topical creams by creating a perfectly cleansed and primed skin surface.

“Techno beauty devices are a natural progression of the spa concept,” explains Lynette Lukes, UK sales and marketing, Clarisonic. “We are replicating spa treatments and equipment which costs thousands of pounds in an accessible at-home format. Retailers love this category because it's not competing with any existing brands, and the potential for growth is huge.

“Ten years ago not everyone used an electric toothbrush but now it's an essential device in the bathroom. We are just at the start of the curve to use a technology product to benefit the skin and I expect in another ten years these devices will be a common sight in almost every consumer's bathroom.”

Centenary celebrations for Nivea

To celebrate its 100th anniversary Nivea has launched a new global marketing campaign, ‘100 Years Skincare for Life’. The campaign is the biggest the brand has ever undertaken and is aimed to strengthen Nivea’s customer base and stabilise its position as the world’s number one skin care brand.
The campaign will feature a cross media approach, including print, TV and digital activities, alongside a skin advisory tour featuring over 75,000 retail promotions.
The brand has also signed Rhianna as the voice of its campaign and her song, ‘California Bed King’ will accompany the campaign throughout. There will be promotions with concert tickets as prizes and downloads available on the Nivea website.