As consumers become more experimental with their make-up looks, manufacturers are meeting their needs with innovative formulas and standout shades. Emma Reinhold reports.
Despite the world’s economy slumping towards all-out recession and the C&T industry bearing the brunt of increased manufacturing costs and plummeting retail sales, the colour cosmetics sector has plenty to smile about.
Consumers may be tightening their purse strings when it comes to more extravagant purchases, but increasingly they are turning to smaller items such as make-up to get their retail kick. This lipstick factor is helping to spearhead a new era of creativity and innovation for colour cosmetics, and consumers are responding.
“Make-up is one of the fastest growing categories within the cosmetics and toiletries market and is also the largest in terms of total value sales,” explains Alexandra Richmond, senior beauty analyst, Mintel. “Even during the last recession the make-up market secured year-on-year growth, growing 26% between 1987 and 1991. If consumers do begin to tighten their belts, make-up is unlikely to suffer, having become an essential purchase for many and a relatively cheap method of improving their mood when times are hard. Lip make-up in particular offers an instant and relatively cheap pick-me-up treat.”
According to Euromonitor International the global colour cosmetics market was worth US$37,897.3m in 2007, although analysts predict that any value growth could be put on hold in the coming years.
“After an era of indulging our every beauty whim, austerity chic will see us looking good for less,” continues Richmond. “As our budgets tighten, we will take a much more targeted approach to our beauty routine, pairing down the number of lotions and potions we use.We will declutter our bathroom cabinets and clear the tops of our dressing tables as we focus only on those products we really need.”
CLEVER COLOUR
Make-up products with additional skin care benefits have become a popular proposition for manufacturers in recent years. The natural synergy between the two sectors has meant that colour cosmetics have become much more than decorative with descriptions such as anti-ageing, skin plumping and protecting commonplace on cosmetic counters.
“Skin care is a key theme in the make-up market,” says Richmond. “The make-up sector is already very much influenced by skin care with brightening/illuminating, moisturising and UV protection all being common in new launches in 2008.”
Up until now this innovation has been restricted to foundations, concealers and bases but manufacturers are now developing anti-ageing technology for eye and lip products. Make-up artist Jemma Kidd is leading the way in this respect with the launch of a range of ‘skin-telligent’ colour cosmetics in her Jemma Kidd Make-up School and Jemma Kidd Professional Team brands. Products include Firming I-Silk Long Last Colour, three metallic eyewashes containing pepha-tight algae to help firm and tighten skin, and Regu-Age, a complex said to improve microcirculation, strengthen skin tissue, reduce UV damage and fight the effects of free radicals. Firming I-Crème Tone on Tone Duo meanwhile contains the anti-ageing active Dermaxyl and vitamin E to protect against free radicals. And I-Rescue Bio-Complex Cover, a tinted eye treatment from the Pro range, is said to treat, cover, brighten and reduce the appearance of fine lines thanks to an anti-ageing formula containing palmitoyl oligopeptide, ceramide 2, Dermaxyl and photosqualene.
“These products are taking skin care technology and the associated benefits and merging it with colour – we’re creating colourceuticals,” explains Grace Fodor, co-founder and md, Jemma Kidd Make Up. “We are not trying to replace skin care but we do want to create a new category that lies somewhere between the two. There is not enough common sense in product development. If you have a product that moisturises, luminates and firms, why not tint it? Women expect more from their make-up today.”
Other hero products in the range include Skin Rescue Bio-Complex Veil SPF15, described as an all-in-one moisturiser, prep, primer, illuminator and tint, containing an anti-ageing complex and active peptides to help repair age-related skin damage, along with horse chestnut, algae, butcher broom, calendula and centella extracts to help improve skin microcirculation.
The next step for the brand, Fodor tells SPC, is to take the skin-telligence concept further into lips and other colour categories. Its new listing in Space.NK, the only UK make-up brand to be stocked by the retailer, should further enhance its commitment to intuitive colour.
Blurring the lines between skin care and make-up is also a key focus for Lancôme. The brand has launched L’Absolu Rouge, a new lipstick containing Pro-Xylane, a molecule that has already been used in a number of skin care products in the L’Oréal portfolio. The ingredient is said to reinforce the skin’s fundamental matrix, helping to increase moisture levels and improve lip suppleness for up to eight hours after application. The claimed result is improved moisture levels, lip volume, lip outline, natural colour and a reduction in wrinkles.
Facial products such as foundations and concealers still remain the largest and most popular area to promote skin care benefits however and formulas are becoming more and more sophisticated.
“Make-up has to keep up to date with new ingredients as women want more than just cosmetic ingredients when they spend their cash,” says make-up artist Daniel Sandler.
Niche brand By Terry has launched two new products – Touche Veloutée Highlighting Concealer Brush and Lumière Veloutée Liquid Foundation. The concealer contains a ‘bio ultra-performing skin care formula’, which is said to erase dark circles and imperfections as well as disguising fine lines and wrinkles. The formula contains little holly and liquorice extracts, Centella asiatica, hyaluronic spheres and soft focus powders. The foundation is said to work on and below the skin surface, helping to reduce signs of fatigue and ageing, as well as disguising any imperfections. Indian chestnut helps to stimulate the skin’s microcirculation, while oriental berry extract provides regenerating, antioxidant protection, and Calendula officinalis soothes inflammation and irritation. In addition, filling spheres help smooth the skin’s surface, providing a more uniform finish.
And YSL Beauté has elevated the trend to a new level with the launch of Top Secrets Flash Radiance Skincare Brush, a protecting brightening primer that is said to refine and conceal imperfections whilst leaving skin soft and radiant. The formula is housed in a brush pen and contains energising grains of paradise and caffeine claimed to help fight signs of fatigue, whilst sweet orange flavanoids are said to regulate the skin pigmentation and pearly micropigments diffuse light to conceal fine lines and imperfections and brighten the complexion. The product can be used on its own or under make-up.
MAKING AN IMPACT
The fashion runways have been awash with bold make-up looks over the past few seasons and these have been steadily filtering down to the high street. As a result attitudes towards make-up are becoming more experimental as consumers become more comfortable with creating a unique look.
“The current trend is the more dramatic the better,” says Christine Benson, buying manager, Selfridges Beauty. “People have become more experimental with their make-up again. The last time there was this much creativity was back in the punk era. Since then the boldest thing people have done really is smoky eyes, so it’s really exciting to see this happening.”
This trend has served as the perfect platform for new colour cosmetics brand Illamasqua. The brand, the result of a two-year project, is positioned as a night-time make-up brand and it has secured a prestigious positioning in Selfridges’ Beauty Hall.
“Illamasqua is all about self-expression, about finding the darker, sexier side of yourself,” explains Kate Massarella, marketing and product director, Illamasqua. “The night-time emphasis recognises that you have less inhibitions at night and this is reflected in your relationship with make-up. Alternative cultures such as Goth, burlesque and punk are very influential but we are not a make-up brand just for these groups – we are for everyone.”
The extensive range, which is creatively overseen by make-up artist Alex Box, features over 200 skus and products include eight base variants, three eye shadow products, available in 107 colours at launch, three lip products and an assortment of brushes and ancillary tools. “We knew the brand had to deliver from the first moment and if we wanted to get professional make-up artists on board we needed a wide variety of colours,” says Massarella.
So far the brand has three permanent lines: Noir, for the femme fatale; Fantasy, an anything goes approach; and Romance, a more feminine, girly collection. The latest seasonal collection, 1920s Berlin also reinforces the drama of the brand.
Illamasqua’s heritage comes from the film and theatre industries and to illustrate this, 70% of the products are manufactured by German theatre make-up specialist Kryolan. Furthermore, the brand has invested heavily in education and offers a filmed make-up lesson to customers with its make-up artists so they can achieve the same look at home. “So many people we spoke to told us that if they knew how to wear other make-up looks they could wear more and be more experimental,” says Massarella.
Reaction to the brand has been better than expected, with some products such as the black lipgloss selling out in a matter of weeks.
“We are very pleased with sales so far,” says Benson. “This is a brand that has come from nowhere, the name has never been heard before. Usually designer brands have a name behind them which gives consumers something to associate with.”
Bold looks have also been championed by other brands. YSL’s new Gloss Pur range was launched with a noir-coloured shade, while Lancôme’s new Pink Irreverence Spring colour collection features a limited edition black gloss in its Colour Fever line. The collection also includes a pink and black eye shadow quad to create a pink smoky eye and a black nail varnish.
And the much anticipated make-up collection from denim label Rock & Republic promises more edgy creativity. The 116 sku line is described as “colourful” and includes primers, eye shadows, blush mousse, and lip gloss, all packaged in silver metal compacts adorned with R&R’s trademark emblem.
MINUTE MAKE-OVER
As consumers become more comfortable experimenting with different looks and colours, demand for a quick make-up fix has also increased, and retailers are increasingly offering a range of make-up treatments to cater for this.
Urban Retreat, which has a high end beauty retreat in Harrods, recently launched Glamour To Go in the store’s beauty lounge. The concept offers quick nail, brow, lash and hairpiece services, with no booking required.
“We launched the concept of Glamour to Go as the result of a flow of customers to the salon who were looking for an instant pre-party beauty fix,” explains George Hammer, ceo Urban Retreat. “We live in an instant world now - so why not Glamour to Go too? Urban Retreat Glamour to Go is a gateway to the much wider luxurious menu of services available at Urban Retreat’s salon on the fifth floor of Harrods. We’re still very new but we’ve received a great reaction from customers so far.”
Nail brand Ciaté has also developed a nail bar concept that offers fast manicures and products. Treatments include Treat & Tidy, Cuticle Fix and an express manicure. Eyebrow technician Shavata Singh meanwhile has launched Lash Lounge, where customers can have brow shaping and false eyelashes applied in between shopping. The lounges are currently situated in several UK department stores including Harvey Nichols and Debenhams.
In line with the popularity of false lashes, the mascara sector has shown a lot of innovation in recent months. Estée Lauder launched TurboLash All Effects Motion Mascara, claimed to be the world’s first ever vibrating mascara that delivers length, volume, definition, separation and curl. Not to be outdone, Lancôme answered with Ôscillation vibrating mascara, said to operate at 7000 vibrations a minute to coat every lash evenly, with no clumps.
MINERALS GO MAINSTREAM
Mineral make-up is still continuing to make strides into the mainstream with more make-up brands than ever launching mineral lines. The jury is still out on whether these products have any credible skin care benefits over traditional make-up products but that has not dented the level of launch activity. The mass market has seen a particularly strong number of launches with Maybelline, Revlon, Max Factor and Rimmel launching mineral variants. Each brand claims to care for the skin with a mineral blend; Max Factor’s Natural Minerals Foundation for instance is said to be the only mineral foundation that contains calcium silicate, which helps impart a natural glow to the skin. Rimmel’s Lasting Finish Minerals foundation meanwhile contains mica, antioxidants, vitamin C and pearl pigments and is said to stay on skin for up to 12 hours.
The real innovation however has come from the premium end of the market. Brands here have extended their mineral product offerings as well as improving formats and application.
Guerlain’s debut into minerals has come in the form of a new bronzing range in its Terracotta collection. Terracotta Mineral is said to impart a natural bronze glow and the light coverage of a foundation and comes as a compact powder, as opposed to the more usual loose powder format.
Packaging is also a key theme with Elizabeth Arden’s new mineral range. Its Pure Finish Mineral Powder Foundation SPF20 is a solid powder housed in a compact featuring a grinder, which creates a fresh layer of powder each time it is used and allows the user to control the quantity used. And By Terry’s Light-Expert Compact foundation and blusher compacts incorporate stencil brush and mirror with the product for ease of use.
Brushes still remain the most popular method of applying mineral foundations however and Prescriptives has invested in ensuring its brush matches the performance of its new All Skins Mineral Makeup SPF15. The powder foundation contains a blend of amethyst, rose, quartz and calcite minerals and is said to give skin a soft, luminous finish.
Despite the number of new mineral products available penetration is still relatively low. According to Mintel, 12% of consumers in the UK purchased at least one mineral make-up product in 2008, which compares to 9% in France and 34% in the US.
Richmond believes this is because textures and performance are not as sophisticated as more conventional foundation products, so are being bought as add-ons to regular make-up purchases. “Although there is potential for growth in this market one of the major stumbling blocks is performance,” she says. “The number of women who always buy mineral make-up is extremely niche. Manufacturers launching mineral products need to clearly position themselves as more natural and be in line with the green trend.”
With this in mind, Estée Lauder, Christian Dior, Physicians Formula and Jemma Kidd have all launched liquid mineral variants. Lauder’s Nutritious Vita-Mineral Makeup Collection features a loose powder and liquid foundation and contains a blend of potassium, magnesium, iron, pomegranate extract and vitamins C and E. Dior’s Nude make-up range also offers the consumer the choice between a powder and a fluid. The formulas both have a very high water content. The Natural Glow Fresh Powder Makeup contains almost 20% water, while the Natural Glow Hydrating Makeup Fluid has almost 40% and this is claimed to create a light, fresh, moisturising veil on the skin.
“Minerals can be very dehydrating on the skin and can make skin look chalky and dull,” says Jemma Kidd. “Products have really evolved though and by using an emollient base you can stop this.”
Kidd’s take on this is Mineral Skin Nourishing Tint SPF20, a sheer crème tint containing magnesium, potassium, zinc, sodium and lysine, as well as vitamins A and E to condition, and chamomile extract to soothe. There’s also a Mineral Balm Foundation & Setting Powder containing a firming and brightening foundation balm and shine-free fixing powder.
The next few months will provide an interesting watermark for the colour cosmetics sector as the true extent of the global economic situation becomes clearer. But with continued innovation and choice, and consumer willingness to experiment with new looks, the outlook for colour is looking good.