Just as innovative new products are starting to appear on the market, the second monoï formulation contest has introduced further inspiration from this Tahitian flower
Monoï de Tahiti became familiar in sun tan oils on the beaches along the south of France 30 years ago but people are now rediscovering its properties and traditions and it is really starting to capture the imagination of cosmetic formulators. Dior’s new Dior Bronze Gelée de Monoï is a hair and body beautifying moisturiser while Origins’ new Shedonism body range promotes the use of tiaré flower absolute to fragrance and awaken the senses. Monoï also features in the Sanctuary’s new Lomi Lomi Relaxing Body Butter, Bath & Body Works’ True Blue Spa collection, Body Shop’s Spa Wisdom and Unilever’s Timotei Sensations shampoos and conditioners.
Two years ago the Monoï Institute held its first International Formulation Contest to promote the use of Monoï when people were really only starting to learn about its potential in cosmetics. The results of the second edition of the contest are now in. Designers and formulators in the cosmetics industry were invited to present a product concept and a formula on a given theme, the winner being awarded a trip for two to Tahiti and its islands.
Tahiti and her islands have a tradition of holistic care, the skin being seen as a uniting bond between the human being and the surrounding natural environment with the body and spirit maintained in harmony by words, plant-based remedies and massage.
This year’s theme was monoi sublime care. “The idea was to celebrate beauty through the combination of sensoriality and functionality - to draw inspiration from the clear transparency of blue lagoons, the scintillating and snowy texture of tiaré flowers, the voluptuous and silky feel of the oil, all the positive energy of paradise... and imagine a sublime product for sublimate beauty,” say the organisers.
This year 50 projects were submitted, 20 from France and 30 from other countries.
Of these, 30 were body care formulations, 17 were for the face and three were for hair. Most of them managed to express both the active and sensorial dimensions of monoï. The jury comprised both scientific and marketing professionals from the cosmetics industry and the evaluation of projects focused primarily on sensorial properties of texture and fragrance, the originality of the concept, the consistency of the formula with the product concept and how monoï de Tahiti’s value was applied in the project.
The winner was Frédéric Burtin with his Florale Native. Burtin’s company Vim Concept creates new fragrances and cosmetics, including the award winning fragrance brand Institut Très Bien. Florale Native is a moisturising and protective gel cream. Monoï is described as playing a silky, moisturising theme around which Polynesian naturals produce harmonies. These include kaupe and blue agerate flower extracts, Oceanis saffron, Tahitian vanilla extracts and minerals from the blue lagoons. These soften, protect and revitalise the skin. The gel cream is white with golden highlights and a light and unctuous feel. It also has a delicate tiaré fragrance. To meet the sublime theme of the competition Florale Native is said to reinvent the meaning of monoï holistic rituals, translating Polynesian grace into a modern, refined formula that awakens the senses and triggers dreams. It contains 2% monoï.
Second prize went to Muriel Hibon, R&D manager of Derma Développement, for Tehani, Souffle Nacré pour le contour des yeux. This anti-ageing butter is said to reveal all the softness of monoï. The active formula uses tamanu oil, floral waters from Tahitian vanilla and tiaré. It contains 6% monoï. In third place Carole Marchais of Givaudan created Blue Lagoon with monoï pearls, an after sun product that uses monoï as both a fragrance and a skin care product. Monoï pearls are suspended in a blue lagoon and when stirred clouds of golden pearlescent pigments rise and swirl into the tonic. The product is described as a synthesis of moisturising and soothing properties, of sun tan sublimating effects and sensory delights. It contains 2% monoï.
Honour awards went to Vincent Grandjon of Clarins for a slimming after sun care product with SPF 15 (10% monoï) and to Francine Vaution and Sandra Massonnat of Affix and Ferling for a simmering Pacific emulsion (8% monoï).
For more formulation ideas the Monoï Institute has four formulation guides: white for the essence of monoï, blue for spa ideas, green for revitalising care and gold for sublimating care.
www.monoi-institute.org