Preview: What to expect at this year’s in-cosmetics Global

This year’s in-cosmetics Global, the world’s largest cosmetics ingredients-based trade event, is being held in SPC’s hometown, London, UK, from 4-6 April at the ExCeL venue. In this article, SPC brings you a synopsis of some of the new features, and novel ingredients and services being offered at the eventt

This year’s in-cosmetics Global exhibition is moving from its usual continental European location to take place in London, UK.

Attendees can expect a host of new concepts and features from the event, which runs from 4-6 April at ExCeL, including a Make-up Bar, sponsored by BASF, which will let visitors try new formulations in the eye, facial, lip and nail make-up segments.

Also new is Sustainability Corner; this will display a selection of environmental and social initiatives to highlight how the industry is moving beyond mere compliance to a more fundamentally sustainable model.

Key topics to be discussed in this year’s seminar programme include digital beauty, Brexit, sustainability and halal beauty. And returning features include the Innovation Zone, the Formulation Lab and the Sensory Bar.

Additionally, the show will bring together 800 exhibitors under one roof. In anticipation of in-cosmetics Global 2017, SPC asked exhibitors what they would be focusing on:

AAK
STAND F20
AAK will demonstrate the suitability of its Lipex L’sens and Lipex SheaLight in products for naturally-textured hair. Lipex L’sens is a highly polar, semi-solid emollient that provides body to both hair and formulations, while Lipex SheaLight is a high-spreading, low-viscosity emollient ester, suitable for cold processing, sprayable and clear styling formulations.

ACTIVE CONCEPTS
STAND NN10
Active Concepts is presenting ProCutiGen Vegan Thermal Shield. It prevents the thermally-induced damage that breaks the cysteine bridges of the hair, making it porous, weakened and prone to breakage. Rather than focusing on repairing broken bonds, ProCutiGen Vegan Thermal Shield creates a de novo cuticle on the hair to stop damage happening in the first place.

AJINOMOTO
STAND F20
Ajinomoto will launch new additions to its aminobeauty family of products: Ajidew N, a series of natural amino acid-derived humectants; Amihope OL, an amino acid-derived texture modifier and functional ingredient; and Amisoft ECS-22W (glutamic acid-derived) and Amilite GCK-12H (glycine-derived) anionic surfactants with excellent foaming and moisturising properties for sulfate-free cleansing systems.


ALCHEMY INGREDIENTS
STAND JJ71
Alchemy Ingredients will showcase its Sucragel gel-to-milk technology, which is currently being buoyed up by Asian trends and ‘low surfactant’ formulations. It will additionally be bringing a new natural, formulator-led emulsifier system to in-cosmetics Global. Alchemy is represented in the UK by Alfa Chemicals.

ASTON CHEMICALS
STAND SS50
Aston Chemicals is demonstrating its newest technologies with a bespoke Formulation Bar. The 27 Focus Formulations capture recent trends and future possibilities. Aston will also be hosting Alzo International and Gale & Cosm on the Aston stand. Gale & Cosm is an Italian supplier offering olive oil-derived emulsifiers and emollients, and 2017 will be its first time exhibiting at in-cosmetics Global.

AZELIS
STAND N20
Anti-pollution beauty products will be Azelis’ focus over the three days. The distributor will present concepts for daily-use defence products that deliver skin renewal, nourishment and hydration, and act as an antidote to pollution, stress and fatigue.

BASF
STAND HH30
In London in April, BASF will present two new actives. Oligolin is a 100% natural hydrolysed linseed extract, which acts as an anti-ageing ingredient in skin care products. In vitro, Oligolin stimulates epidermis thickness, tones up the dermal epidermal junction and re-densifies the dermis. In vivo, it visibly contributs to a healthier skin and significantly improves skin hydration and firmness. Collalift 18, meanwhile, comes from the bark of African mahogany (Khaya senegalensis) and has been developed to improve skin’s elasticity and visibly reduce pores, lines and wrinkles.

BITOP
STAND SS72
28Extremoin from Bitop is a natural and multifunctional ‘urban protection’ ingredient. A blend of two stress-protection molecules, ectoin and hydroxyectoin, it acts before damage occurs, safeguarding skin’s cells from pollution-induced damage and ROS formation.

CLARIANT
STAND JJ10
Clariant will unveil the four big new trends based on its BeautyForward platform, namely: custom, origin, revive and balance. It will also unveil its new Active Ingredients business, which will provide dedicated, expert support from Toulouse, France. In line with this, Clariant will launch a new active for indoor pollution control: Eosidin.


CORNELIUS
STAND SS49
Cornelius is showcasing 20 years of innovation at in-cosmetics Global 2017. The distributor will demonstrate key Cornelius formulations created since the opening of its Cornelius Applications Laboratory in 1997 and their impact on today’s personal care market.

COVESTRO
STAND M20
Covestro plans to release new information about its Baycusan C 1004 film former in London. New findings have proven the ingredient to have a skin-firming effect, a result of its activity as an invisible barrier against environmental influences.

CPL AROMAS
STAND Q48
Fragrance house CPL Aromas will be unveiling some significant company changes to coincide with in-cosmetics Global 2017. The family-owned business is increasingly focusing on its fine fragrance division, and this changing emphasis and repositioning is being supported with a major rebranding exercise. Its new identity will be revealed at the exhibition.

DERMSCAN
STAND DD20
Clinical studies specialist Dermscan will be focusing on the assessment of ageing versus photo-ageing. To demonstrate the activity of products on UV-accelerated ageing, long-term studies must be conducted, and Dermscan’s Tunisia-based facility and partner company in Mauritius enable Dermscan to offer manufacturers studies in sunny environments.

DR. STRAETMANS
STAND N60
dermosoft decalact sebum is the new solution for oily and blemish-prone skin from Dr. Straetmans. It is a mild, active-ingredient blend that tackles multiple skin imperfections simultaneously. An in vivo study proves a reduction in the excessive production of sebum, which leads to a decrease of enlarged and clogged pores.

DSM
STAND K40
DSM is launching several new products at this year’s show. There are two new broad spectrum ingredients in its Parsol line. Parsol Shield boosts UVB and UVA protection across the full range of application forms at low concentrations, while Parsol Max II continues protection into the blue light spectrum. For hair styling, Tilamar Fix A1000 delivers extra-strong hold, while active PEPHA-Age is designed to stimulate the skin’s own defences against sunlight.

DUPONT INDUSTRIAL BIOSCIENCES
STAND AA40
The latest ingredient by DuPont Industrial Biosciences is Genencare OSMS MI, a highly purified myo-inositol, which acts as an osmoprotectant and moisturiser, but also boosts the skin cell metabolism to improve skin tonicity.

FLORATECH
STAND M78
Floratech’s Floramac 10 is described as a natural, non-volatile alternative to silicones. Derived from macadamia, Floramac 10 is a stable, biodegradable and non-comedogenic emollient that leaves the skin feeling soft and smooth, and allows for oil-free and silicone-free claims.

GATTEFOSSE
STAND H40
A new active ingredient for the London-based expo, developed to lift the eye contour area, is Gatuline Link n Lift from Gattefossé. Obtained from organic horse chestnut flowers using NaDES technology – which stands for natural deep eutectic solvents – Gatuline Link n Lift restores fibroblast dynamism and acts on the dermal-epidermal junction to firmly reconnect the epidermis to the dermis.

GIVAUDAN ACTIVE BEAUTY
STAND FF10
At 50, skin needs 44% more time to renew itself than aged 20. Givaudan’s latest active ingredient is claimed to be the first dedicated to accelerating the entire skin regeneration process. Derived from Orobanche rapum, a unique, chlorophyll-free plant, Revivyl delivers targeted biological action in all the layers of the skin.

GRANT INDUSTRIES
STAND H10
Grant Industries will be demonstrating its Gransil SBG-11 silicone elastomer system, containing an advanced shea butter for a variety of personal care, skin care and colour cosmetic applications. It will also showcase millennial-inspired beauty concepts at its stand.

GREENALTECH
STAND NN79
Greenaltech has developed a new natural and sustainable technology to isolate novel compounds from the microalgae cell wall. The first active based on this innovation is Algaktiv BioSKN, a compound able to outperform epidermal growth factor on primary keratinocyte growth and motility. It also demonstrates broad spectrum prebiotic and probiotic properties.


GREENTECH
STAND K20
France’s Greentech plans to introduce an active that fights the biological damages caused by pollution, to provide long lasting protection to the skin. It is said to fight free radical and inflammatory stresses triggered by repeated pollution attacks in all its forms thanks to an action involving the stimulation of cellular anti-free radical and detoxification pathways, as well as skin barrier strengthening.

HUNTSMAN
STAND MM60
New from Huntsman’s Pigments & Additives division is Hombitan AFDC 101, a super pure grade of titanium dioxide. The high purity, uncoated, anatase grade of TiO2 has a very narrow particle size distribution that can be used to improve the opacity of premium cosmetics.

IBR
STAND QQ21
At this year’s show, IBR will showcase several ingredients, including the overnight recharging and rejuvenating properties of IBR-Dormin; the Botox-like activity of IBR-Snowflake; and the skin brightening effect offered by IBR-Dragon.

ICHIMARU PHARCOS
STAND MM40
Ichimaru Pharcos of Japan will present its Izayoi UV care active, which inhibits the damage-associated molecular patterns (or DAMPs) associated with sun-damaged keratinocytes, that in turn stimulate an inflammatory response in surrounding non-damaged cells, as a means of preventing photoageing. New for 2017 is Ichimaru Pharcos’ Glycerin Natural Active Line, composed of its plant extracts plus glycerin.

ID BIO
STAND CC40
Another ingredients supplier tapping the anti-pollution movement is ID bio, which will unveil a botanical active to create an invisible and breathable layer on the skin to prevent pollution particle adhesion.

IMERYS
STAND SS40
Imerys will be launching two new natural ingredients for beauty care gels at the show. ImerCare Opaque is an eco-friendly kaolin product with an innovative particle shape that enhances whiteness and opacity in gel formulations, and gives a rich, creamy texture. ImerCare Opaline, meanwhile, is a premium talc grade that confers opacity and a luxurious, pearlescent effect to gels.

IMPROVE USA
STAND MM89
Pharmachem Laboratories’ division Improve USA is launching Enderma, a new ‘healthy-ageing’ ingredient. The basis of Enderma is aloe vera, developed using a proprietary production method, which allows the raw material to be produced in a gentle, responsible manner that helps retain its inherent potency.


INDENA
STAND R48
Vitachelox is the latest active ingredient from Indena. It is a selection of optimised botanical compounds that act as anti-pollution agents, skin protectors and free-radical scavengers.

INGREDION
STAND R78
Ingredion is launching a new range of natural texturisers and sensory enhancers for personal care products. A response to consumer demand for naturals and organics, the Nativacare line lets manufacturers replace synthetic or chemically-modified polymers while enhancing sensory appeal.

IN VITRO PLANT-TECH
STAND G09
In vitro Plant-tech will be at in-cosmetics Global explaining to visitors how it can help customers obtain their own exclusive extracts from in vitro produced cells, such as plant stem cell extracts.

KUMAR ORGANIC PRODUCTS
STAND NN60
Kumar Organic Products will focus on two ingredients. Kopcerin is ethyl hexyl glycerin, a multifunctional cosmetic ingredient with good preservative efficacy, and deodorising and skin care properties. Also promoted is the company’s Koplactylate, described as an excellent secondary surfactant that helps to boost the foaming activity of primary surfactants.

LABORATOIRE PHENOBIO
STAND D15
Laboratoire Phenobio will launch its new active ingredient, Skinvia, a natural extract with retinol-like activity. The extract shows a strong modulation of many genes involved in keratinocyte differentiation, as well as many genes involved in the generation and maintenance of the extracellular matrix. In addition, it shows a down-regulation of pro-inflammatory genes.

LAMBSON
STAND F79
Lambson is showcasing its Vida-Caps Vegetarian Microencapsulates via a range of new formulations demonstrating the capabilities of its patented Vida-Caps core-shell system. Lambson’s technology removes gelatine from the system and replaces it with a unique vegetable-derived alternative. The microencapsulates can be designed in a range of colours and sizes, from 5-1,500μm to match the application intended.


LIPOID KOSMETIK
STAND M10
New from Lipoid Kosmetik will be HerbaShield URB. A natural solution to pollution, the botanical active is a self-preserving, three-component system based on watercress, horsetail and nettle extracts. The plants’ actives are embedded in a matrix of phospholipids and maltodextrin, resulting in an easy-to-use powder formula. HerbaShield URB has a triple activity, reducing pollution-induced skin damage, detoxifying air pollutants and enhancing skin’s protection versus environmental stress.

LIPOTEC
STAND GG3
The regenerative capacity of the skin reduces with age, resulting in thinness and fragility. New from Lipotec is Reproage peptide, which assists in reprograming epidermal basal cells at the epigenetic level by targeting microRNA-145, in order to boost skin’s youthfulness.

LONZA
STAND K30
Lonza will demonstrate its Ecocert-certified, naturally-derived surfactant alternative, Polyaldo 10-1-CC, which forms stable cleansing systems with improved foam properties. Additionally, it will showcase its Geogard line of single-active and blended preservatives.

LUCAS MEYER
STAND J40
New for 2017, Lucas Meyer is launching Siligel, a natural gelling agent with a silicone-like skin feel. A patented, optimised combination of phospholipids and polysaccharides, Siligel requires no pre-dispersion even when used in a cold process, unlike gums.

MAMTA POLYCOATS
STAND S89
India’s Mamta Polycoats will offer a wide range of naturally-sourced ingredients, created using raw materials transformed via fermentation. The company will showcase its new ingredient: adipic acid ester di-isopropyl adipate (DIPA), said to be ideal for use in sun care formulations.


MIBELLE BIOCHEMISTRY
STAND F50
Mibelle Biochemistry will promote two new actives. The first, InfraGuard, tackles the effects of infrared, specifically IRA, on the dermis and subcutaneous adipose tissue, while the second, SensAmone P5, is a novel neurocosmetic ingredient. Sensitive skin is characterised by overactivity of the TRPV1 receptor, leading to stinging and itching. A protein in the venom of sea anemones acts as an inhibitor of this receptor, but is too large to penetrate the skin. Mibelle has developed a five amino acid peptide that is composed of just the TRPV1 inhibitor sequence of this protein.

MICRO POWDERS
STAND M18
New for in-cosmetics Global 2017 from Micro Powders are Naturesoft 800, an ultra-fine, biodegradable cellulose powder with superior binding properties versus zinc stearate and nylon-12; the Naturescrub H product line of scrubs in three different mesh size grades; and a new line of melting waxes for use as rheological modifiers and structural additives.


MIREXUS
STAND EE40
Mirexus will demonstrate its PhytoSpherix, a completely natural form of glycogen, sourced and produced from plants using a patent-pending green process in Canada. PhytoSpherix offers multifunctional benefits, being a powerful anti-ageing ingredient that increases cellular metabolism, and promotes collagen and hyaluronic acid production in skin cells.

NAGASE
STAND BB38
New from Nagase is Extremosio, a novel active that reverses the ageing process within skin cells. Skin autophagy is a naturally occurring detox process through which damaged cellular constituents are degraded and continuously renewed, and Extremosio is designed to provide a solution to this process’ impairment with age.

NAOLYS
STAND CC11
New from Naolys is LightWaves Defense [JS+M], a new plant cell complex made from native cells of Indian jasmine (Jasminum sambac), containing not only its own active molecules but also γ-mangosteen (a natural molecule extracted from mangosteen) to fight damages induced by three types of solar rays.

OLVEA
STAND PP20
Olvea Burkina Faso, Olvea’s subsidiary, inaugurated an eco-friendly production unit last year, enabling the company to launch two new products in 2017: organic fair trade shea butter and organic sesame oil.


OMYA
STAND B40
Omya will highlight its Omyadent and Omyacare ingredient ranges for dental and skin care applications.

PQ CORPORATION
STAND RR41
PQ Corporation will demonstrate its Sorbosil BFG10 and BFG50 products: Ecocert-certified, environmentally friendly silica alternatives to PE microbeads.

PROTAMEEN
STAND LL15
Protameen is promoting its expanded manufacturing capacity for customised manufacturing needs. Its new facility in New Jersey is dedicated to amidation, esterification, oxidation, phosphation, quaternisation, blending, spray drying and flaking.

PROVITAL
STAND N30
Provital’s new active, Aquaxtrem, is aimed at a condition particularly important for people aged over 55: dry and flaky skin. Aquaxtrem stimulates the skin’s own moisture-balancing mechanisms. In vivo tests with a formula containing Aquaxtrem showed an increase in happiness (measured using FACS analysis) through hydrated skin and reduced discomfort.

RAHN
STAND N50
Rahn is launching Defensil-Soft, a neuro balm that blocks the pain receptor TRPV1. Derived from the edible mushroom Albatrellus ovinus, Defensil-Soft reduces skin discomfort and irritation within minutes; increases the heat-pain tolerance of normal and ultra-sensitive skin; prevents IR-ageing by protecting from infrared-induced heat stress; and improves the skin’s tolerance towards irritants in cosmetic formulations.

SEDERMA
STAND KK40
Sederma will invite attendees into a ‘Matrixyl Wonderland’, allowing the adventurous to discover the third generation of peptides for personal care applications. In 2017, the company will present a brand new addition to the Matrixyl Inside peptides range.

SEPPIC
STAND HH20 & K50
Seppic will demonstrate its ingredient expertise via formulation concepts like Perfect Body Illusion Slimming Foundation Street Spray, which combines Aquaxyl for moisture and Adipoless and Adiposlim to prevent orange peel.


SILAB
STAND FF20
Wellagyl and Hairgenyl are the two new products being launched by Silab at in-cosmetics Global in 2017. Wellagyl is a Bulgarian rose extract, claimed to enable ‘poorly’ ageing fibroblasts to acquire the phenotype specific to a ‘well’ ageing state. For the boosting of hair regrowth, Hairgenyl helps support the biological activity of the dermal papilla, stimulating hair follicle growth and re-normalising hair development.


SISTERNA
STAND N50
Sisterna will be introducing three new make-up formulation ideas with sucrose esters. These are velvet natural lipstick, natural cream-to-powder blush and natural fluid foundation (o/w). The first contains Sisterna A10E-C, a lipidic phase modifier that improves rheological properties by increasing the strength of a lipstick, which influences the melting behaviour positively.


STEPHENSON PERSONAL CARE
STAND RR30
Specialty soap bases manufacturer Stephenson Personal Care is putting its 160-plus years of knowledge and expertise on display at in-cosmetics Global. As part of this year’s annual showcase entitled ‘Natural alternatives to synthetic surfactants’, it will demonstrate products such as Durosoft, a naturally-derived range of cold-process emulsifiers.

SUN CHEMICAL
STAND H70
Sun Chemical will showcase new additions to its SunShine, SunCroma and Intenza families. SunShine Mystic Black is a black pearl effect pigment, said to achieve a unique combination of ‘jetness’, coverage, sparkle and lustre.

SYTHEON
STAND N50
New ingredient HydraSynol IDL from Sytheon has been designed to rebuild skin’s barrier function by up-regulating key genes, proteins and lipids; defend skin against oxidative and inflammatory onslaughts; and enhance skin’s natural moisture retention mechanisms.


VYTRUS BIOTECH
STAND D71
Centella Reversa is the latest active from Vytrus Biotech, which will be promoted at in-cosmetics Global in London. A concentrated secretome of totipotent cells from Centella asiatica petioles, it is rich in signalling peptides designed to reverse the skin ageing process.

ZSCHIMMER & SCHWARZ
STAND J30
Green surfactants will be demonstrated at the Zschimmer & Schwarz stand. First up is a new addition to the Sebumol WO line-up. Sebumol WO 350 has identical properties to the polyglycerol ester blend Sebumol WO; however, it is solvent- and preservative-free. Also new are two green products in Zschimmer & Schwartz’s bath and shower blends portfolio.

SPC and representatives from the other publications in the Cosmetics Business family, Cosmetics Business News, Cosmetics Business Markets and Pure Beauty, will be at in-cosmetics Global.
Please stop by to visit us on stand S74.

Featured Companies

BASF Personal Care (more information, website)
Sederma (more information, website)
Mibelle Biochemistry (more information, website)
Lipotec (more information, website)
Lucas Meyer Cosmetics (more information, website)
Stephenson (more information, website)
CPL Aromas (more information, website)
Provital Group (more information, website)
NAGASE Personal Care (more information, website)
Ichimaru Pharcos (more information, website)
Greentech (more information, website)
Floratech (more information, website)
AAK Personal Care (more information, website)
Sytheon Ltd (more information, website)
In vitro Plant Tech (more information, website)
Vytrus Biotech (more information, website)
Greenaltech (more information, website)
Covestro (more information, website)
DSM Personal Care (more information, website)

See also