in-cosmetics 2009 - the cream of the crop

When spring arrives it's time for the technical teams of the cosmetics industry to descend upon an European City for in-cosmetics. This year (21-23 April) it was Munich's turn and SPC was there to see what the raw materials suppliers had to offer

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When spring arrives it's time for the technical teams of the cosmetics industry to descend upon an European City for in-cosmetics. This year (21-23 April) it was Munich's turn and SPC was there to see what the raw materials suppliers had to offer

One outcome of the recession has been that European suppliers who may have offered ingredients sourced from more exotic regions in the past are now looking closer to home for inspiration. “If we have the resources, then why not source locally?” said Anne Paufique, communication manager for Silab. “At the last two in-cosmetics exhibitors liked exotic stands. Now they are returning to the old and the local.” Silab is no exception and is currently working in alliance with a French region to help promote sustainable farming.

Safic Alcan meanwhile was promoting its recently launched lingonberry extract, available in Germany and (since last month) in the UK. The decision to launch the extract in northern Europe first was partly down to the lingonberry being native to the region and therefore better known. “Due to the market, people are returning to traditional foods,” commented Safic Alcan UK’s Ken Jones.

When ingested, the berry is said to have a similar, if not more potent effect to cranberry on the urinary tract due to high levels of proanthocyandine A, which has anti-inflammatory properties. “Companies can convert the extract for use as an anti-inflammatory in skin care or oral care,” said Hans-Joachim Münke, senior business manager of Safic Alcan Deutschland. “In oral care it can be used to help prevent gum disease and in products designed for post dental surgery use. It could also be used in skin care to fight infection as it forms a layer internally, so there’s no reason why it shouldn’t form a film on the skin.”

SKIN ESSENTIALS

Many exhibitors also took the opportunity to launch new ingredients, or remind visitors about existing ingredients for use in skin care. Arkema added four new actives to its Orgasol skin care line: Orgasol Pure, a powder for the treatment of oily skin; Orgasol Caresse, which neutralises greasiness in heavy, aqueous-based skin care and sun care formulations; Orgasol Hydra+, a powder designed to endow make-up with anti-ageing properties; and Orgasol Restore, a powder said to help mature skin fight dryness and discomfort.

BASF meanwhile addressed the issue of thickening which can often pose challenges to skin care formulators due to the high levels of salt that modern skin and sun care products contain because of the active ingredients in the formulations. To counteract this the company showcased Luvigel STAR, a polymeric thickener based on polyurethane said to provide high thickening performance even under challenging conditions. The salt stable structure does not require neutralisation and does not react with cationic, anionic or zwitterionic surfactants or emulsifiers. A broad range of viscosities can be achieved and the thickener provides an elegant and luxurious skin feel, according to BASF.

The German chemical group also launched a line of active ingredients claimed to provide a Photoshop effect. Mat-XS Clinical and Mat-XS Bright, both from the group’s newly rebranded Beauty Care Solutions arm are said to perfect and add greater luminosity to the skin. Mat-XS Clinical is a synthetic molecule that helps diminish oil sebum production in the skin, making large pores appear smoother, while Mat-XS Bright is an active skin mattifying ingredient based on nature identical tea extract that helps reduce the appearance of shine, whilst providing a radiant look to skin.

Amcol Health & Beauty Solutions (HBS) specialises in Microsponges, designed to entrap cosmetic active ingredients and enhance their performance in dermatological products. The company offered visitors the chance to test the technology in a range of finished skin care products to rejuvenate, treat acne, brighten and firm. “Our business has focused on finished products more recently,” commented Ro Oteri, director of sales and marketing, HBS. “This is the first year where we’ve really demonstrated finished products at a show.”

Several companies under distributor S.Black’s umbrella introduced new ingredients for use in skin care at the show. Provital launched Vitasource, a purified fraction from Scutellaria baicalensis Georgi (Baical Skullcap) roots, said to extend the life of human fibroblasts by 10%, while Syntron PC5500, Interpolymer’s new quaternary modified olefin-graft polymer, has been created to impart substantivity, flexibility and moisturisation to skin care formulations.

According to Gillian Berry, S.Black’s group marketing manager, the high number of skin care ingredient launches is due to cosmetics companies broadening their consumer age range. “Companies are now targeting a far younger consumer,” she explained. “Tweenagers are being targeted with preventative measures and they are targeting all the way through now to the over 60s, with L’Oréal using Jane Fonda.”

Meanwhile, Innospec officially launched its sulfate-free surfactant in Europe under the revised name Iselux. Innospec says that although Iselux is completely clear it allows formulators to create a luxurious foam comparable to that of SCI and SLES. “It’s really easy to formulate with,” Innospec’s marketing manager, active chemicals, Samantha Gardner, told SPC. “Formulators don’t have to change anything or add anything new – they can use it as a replacement or to complement existing surfactants.”

NATURAL PERFORMANCE

As in recent years the natural and organic sector played a dominant role at in-cosmetics with many major suppliers bringing out ingredients suitable for use in natural and organic products. One theme that has come out of the green movement is the need for greater efficacy and claims substantiation, an area where many exhibitors were keen to show where they had made advances.

Dr Straetmans launched a new emulsifier blend suitable for use in natural products. Dermafeel symbiomuls GC is of natural origin and comprises an anionic emulsifier, structurising co-emulisifier and a wetting agent which allows the formation of emulsions at temperatures as low as 40?C, as well as providing basic preservation to the finished product, helping to minimise the use of preservatives. The supplier also launched its first organic emulsifier. Dermorganics GSC is an o/w emulsifier from organic sources and forms the first product in Dr Straetmans’ new Dermorganics product group.

“Efficacy is becoming more and more important and at the moment there is a real mixture of claims and standards,” said Susanne Jänichen, operational marketing manager. “A lot of companies are saying their products are natural but if you look at the INCI names you can see that’s not true. The industry needs to make sure that the names natural and organic do not become overused or used incorrectly.”

Inca Oil introduced what it says is the first organic certified emulsifier. Produced by Desert King in Chile, Quillaja had attracted a lot of interest, including from multinationals, according to Desert King president, Paul Hiley. “It almost comes across sounding like a snake oil as it has so many uses, including food. Of course it is a bit pricey but used at 0.5%-2% it is very cost effective,” said Hiley. “For some products it would be a direct replacement as a cleansing agent but for others you would need foaming agents.” The material can also confer a silky, powdery, silicone-style wow factor but the company is unsure how and plans further research to establish the reason for this.

Symrise launched an Ecocert approved natural cooling agent, Frescolat ML nat, while Silab extended its organic line with Coheliss Bio (to stimulate a long lasting tensor effect in the skin), Sensiline Bio (an anti-irritant) and Desoxine Bio (a cutaneous detoxifier). Evonik also built up its green credentials with the launch of Antil Soft SC, a natural thickener [INCI: Sorbitan sesquicaprylate] that had recently gained Ecocert approval for use in organic products. “It’s different to other natural thickeners. Good thickeners are not usually natural ones, but this works and it’s natural,” enthused Wolfgang Goertz, director, global marketing for Evonik’s personal care business.

Aldivia introduced its Viatenza PO6 Organic line of non-ionic water-dispersible oils. Featuring 75% organic, 100% natural argan, babassu, Brazil nut, marula, oleic sunflower, olive and shea oils, the line allows formulators to mix water and oil without adding emulsifiers. “These were Ecocert certified organic two weeks ago,” said Marianne Cochennec, Aldivia’s technical sales representative. “These oils have been chemically transformed. Before now, the only chemically transformed product allowed in organic formulations was glycerine and there are not enough producers so the price has increased.”

Gattefossé launched several naturally themed products, two of which are organically certified by Ecocert. The company added a new organic lemon water to its Original Line. The ‘living’ water has been certified 100% organic by Ecocert and is said to provide a cost effective way to help the formulator increase the percentage of organic material used in a formulation, without any risk of instability. Also debuting was Gatuline Skin-Repair Bio, an organic restructuring anti-ageing active that helps to stimulate epidermal regeneration and promote cutaneous repair. Used at 2% the ingredient is said to be suitable for a number of skin care applications including post-operative and dermatological treatments, mature skin care, sunburn treatments and products for dry or atopic skin.

The supplier also introduced a new active texturising ingredient derived from 100% plant origin. Hydracire S is based on a hydrophilized complex of jojoba, mimosa and sunflower waxes and is said to stabilise and improve the sensorial properties of natural formulations as well as enabling the creation of new formulations and textures and improving skin moisturisation. Currently it is supported by in vivo tests. “Hydracire S opens the door to new formulations and textures,” explained Laurent Schubnel, operational marketing manager, Gattefossé. “For instance you can create esters between a solid and a liquid – it’s truly a new approach.”

Traditional Chinese Medicine formed the basis of Mibelle’s new skin care application EpiCalmin TCM. The ingredient, which has Ecocert approval for natural skin care applications, combines Japanese honeysuckle, Siberian cocklebur and purple nutsedge, chosen for their soothing qualities and established use in TCM. It is said to reinforce the skin’s natural defence system, improve skin hydration, soothe irritation and help leave skin soft and more comfortable. Suggested applications include skin care for dry and sensitive skin, anti-redness products and sun care and after sun formulations.

“We’ve had a lot of requests for natural but it’s not as big as last year – maybe people take it for granted now and natural and well-being are now mainstream. But it is still a very big trend and most of our ingredients our green (preservative-free etc),” commented Isabelle Benoit, global marketing manager, Laboratoires Sérobiologiques (LS). “What people are asking for today is innovation.”

But LS’s new Euphoryl O-3 is Ecocert approved. “The idea here is to recreate the feeling of love at first sight,” said Benoit. “We studied what happens when two people meet and the involvement of dopamine. This is an anti-depressant but it is also involved with beautification of the skin; the pink flush of love is boosted by dopamine without associated irritation.” Rich in Omega-3, from sachi inchi oil, and Schinus terebinthifolius extract, this ingredient is said to stimulate dopamine production and improve microcirculation, which translates into a complexion enhancing effect. A clinical study found immediate and long-term improvements in the look of skin and a long-term improvement in the sensation of hydration, freshness and comfort. “This is about happy cosmetics – merging well-being and neurocosmetics,” said Benoit. “And being able to demonstrate well-being clinically is very important.”

To help formulators LS and parent company Cognis had both produced conceptual guides for the show. For LS this was in the form of doctor brand book of prescription-style formulations featuring highly active peptides, for example, and for Cognis it was a collection of formulations based on four key dimensions in body care: inspiring, moisturising, shaping and refining.

“Our theme now is green meets performance,” commented Bettina Jackwerth, director marketing North Europe, Cognis (though she has now changed roles). “We still feel from discussions with some customers that they want to be green but they are hesitant and have not yet decided quite how to position themselves.”

With Euperlan Green Cognis says it has developed the first ‘green’ pearlising wax dispersion. The vegetable-based material is free from ethylene oxide and amine feedstock and is suggested for hair and body cleansing formulations. The easy to handle liquid form is cold processable, saving production time and energy costs in final formulation processing. Also new from Cognis was Cutina HVG, a consistency giving wax with a positive impact on stability and viscosity, and Eumulgin Prisma, a high performance, cost efficient emulsifier derived mainly from natural sources.

First time exhibitor Malvern Cosmeceutics was keen to publicise its Lipodisq technology, or biodegradable nanotechnology. According to the company Lipodisq enables the easy formulation of hydrophobic actives into aqueous solutions. The particles accumulate in the stratum corneum and degrade harmlessly to provide sustained release of active into the skin’s lower layers. “This tries to avoid controversy. It is made of GM-free soya, is water soluble, biodegradable and doesn’t fall under the EU classification of nanotechnology,” explained Malvern Cosmeceutics’ md Steve Tonge.

FAIR TRADE

A by-product of natural and organic has been the increased visibility of sustainability claims by suppliers and the general rise in ethical consumerism. In fact the trend was deemed so important that it was given its own slot in the marketing presentations, where Organic Monitor’s Amarjit Sahota described how the sustainability and in particular the fair trade market has grown six-fold and was valued at t2.4bn in 2007.

Fair trade and sustainability were also hot topics on the show floor with many exhibitors promoting ethical initiatives in addition to natural and organic products.

“Sustainability is a very popular theme this year,” explained Ulrike Brandt, communications manager, care chemicals & formulators europe, BASF. “Companies are not only looking at their processes, they are looking at the entire life cycle.”

Brazilian supplier Beraca has made sustainability part of its core values for the past nine years and has a structured sustainability programme which ensures traceability on the supply of its raw materials sourced from the Amazon region, as well as working with local communities in the area. The company introduced two new products at in-cosmetics: Beracare ARS hair, a hair revitalisation agent said to be rich in omega-6 and flavonoids, and claimed to work as a silicone replacement in hair care to promote moisturisation, softness and shine; and biofunctional Buriti extract, certified organic by Ecocert and the USDA and featuring antioxidant properties that are said to regenerate and repair dry, damaged and delicate skin and suitable for both hair and skin care applications.

Jan Dekker meanwhile announced details of its cooperation with the Burkinakarité organisation, a union of women’s cooperatives that promote the fair trading of shea butter in the Houet province in Burkina Fasso. Jan Dekker says that the organisation can triple the incomes of the women involved in the project enabling them to pay for their children to go to school as well as for vital medicines for their families. “By working together the women can sell their raw shea butter directly to international buyers without relying on middlemen,” said Ton Trentelman, ceo, Jan Dekker. “They receive a fair price that not only covers their costs of production but guarantees a fair wage for their labour.”

In a similar vein, AAK promoted its project in Burkina Fasso, where it has collaborated with the United Nations Development Programme and the national government to improve the living conditions of women in the African country.

And Olvea featured a number of new oils and butters that have been sustainably sourced from Morocco, with profits invested back into communities to help with water extraction, literary classes for women and the protection of argan trees. “Our aim is to have a complete production chain from fruits to oil but this is a complex process,” said Olvea’s Alain Cahier. “The first step is [organic] certification but the second step, to implement sustainability is more difficult.”

Lipo Chemicals meanwhile launched Lipo VI 40/60, an exclusive natural exfoliant derived from the seeds of the Ecuadorian ivory palm. The material, more commonly known as vegetable ivory, is said to have been ecologically harvested from sustainable rainforest. The product is designed to provide moderate exfoliation and is gentle enough for face and body products.

According to Philipp Knaup of Cremer Care, one of the company’s founding principles was to promote fair working conditions. “Cremer Care’s philosophy is that there is a mutual benefit in keeping the people who work for us motivated and happy,” he commented. The farmers who produce shea butter for Cremer Care’s new Shea Soap Noodles are encouraged to grow other tradeable produce alongside their main crop to give them a lifeline in the event of a problem. “Plantations should not be monocultures as it is too easy for crops to be destroyed,” he explained. The company also introduced its new vegetable-based alternative to petroleum jelly, Cremerlin pura at the show.

Aldivia similarly has an ongoing partnership with South African trade agency Phyto Trade Africa for its Ubuntu range of hydrosoluble oils from African plants, which includes mongongo, marula, mafura, baobab, ximenia and Kalahari melon oils.

Meanwhile Naturex – which launched three new botanical ingredients at in-cosmetics including Effineo, a caffeine-free green coffee extract for use in topical slimming products – has set up the Naturex Foundation (opened in 2008) to promote social development in the communities from where it sources raw materials. The foundation focuses particularly on areas like education, medicine and amenities.

BEAUTY FOODS

Flavex Naturextracte launched three new products at this year’s in-cosmetics: a certified organic paprika extract that can be used to impart colour to cosmetic products, organic millet seed oil and organic wheat bran extract, which has a high phytosterol and tocopherol content. Karl-Werner Quirin, ceo, Flavex Naturextracte, noted that visitors at the show were particularly interested in whether the ingredients were suitable for use in nutritional products. “There have been customers asking for oils for use in health foods,” he said. “Topically there is a problem of penetration – how far will the product penetrate the skin? This is the justification for beauty from within. As these ingredients are food grade they are suitable for topical and internal applications.”

Croda also explored the theme of nutritional beauty with the launch of RevitElix and RevitElix Nutra, a new skin care system combining a topical skin rejuvenator and a nutritional supplement which are said to increase the production of collagen and fibrillin, reducing fine lines and wrinkles as well as boosting the skin’s natural barrier and skin hydration. The two products are derived from Echium plantagineum seed oil, which is rich in omega 3,6 and 9, and also includes natural antioxidants. Used together, Croda says results are perceived in 12 weeks. “Beauty from within is an area with huge potential, and combining it with beauty on the outside is a logical step,” said Sarah Millns, marketing communications coordinator, personal care, Croda. “We have a substantial data package to accompany the launch and the results are very promising.”

CONCEPTS & COLLABORATIONS

A few companies were taking a different approach this year. Clariant, for example, was positioning itself in a new way. “We’ve got a good story to tell and probably haven’t been telling it as well as we should in the past – so we’re doing more storytelling, changing our approach from selling individual products to selling formulations and know-how and providing support and services,” said Elmer Busch, global business director personal care, Clariant. And where better to communicate such a story than on a platform like in-cosmetics. The company’s new Hostacerin SFO sunflower ingredient is based entirely on renewable, vegetable and GMO-free sources and is produced using an energy saving process. But as part of its aim to build a reputation for being innovative Clariant was also showcasing new concepts: men’s care and wet wipes featuring suitable ingredients and tailored formulations. “The concept idea was originally to support regional and local customers but larger companies are also picking up on individual ideas - it’s bringing value to them and speed to market is so important,” said Busch. “And we have a lot more concepts to come in 2009.”

Also going with a strong concept this year was DSM. This was the first time in Europe that DSM and Pentapharm, the skin care specialist it merged with in 2007, had taken a stand together. “We’ve completed the work of looking at the portfolio and integrating the two companies and we’re now very clear why we did it,” commented Christine Stamm, communications manager, DSM Nutritional Products. To demonstrate this to visitors a 24-hour protection & care concept was used, combining the elements of the two companies. “Pentapharm knows all about skin biology and this is combined with DSM ingredients for protection,” said Michael Weller, DSM’s vp, personal care. “The ideas are to inspire people but it’s really to provide an overview and form a basis for discussion.” The company was also introducing its Regu-Cea ingredient targeting rosacea.

“We realise we have to go beyond pure silicones,” said Volker Oehl, European marketing manager, life sciences industry, Dow Corning. “We’re looking to provide solutions, services and formulations. We always did but now it’s even more essential. As market leader in silicone you’re targeted by everyone so we have to keep on moving.” To optimise this kind of development, Oehl said Dow Corning selects innovative technologies from different parts of the world. Last September the company signed joint development and marketing agreements with Elevance Renewable Sciences to create and market a unique line of naturally derived ingredients for the personal care market and Elevance was on-stand with Dow Corning at in-cosmetics. The first product to come out of the partnership is soy wax and another is promised within 12 months. “Phase two is expanding the portfolio and we have several exciting concepts we’re working on,” said Oehl. “We look at this as a model relationship of what we’re trying to do,” added Andrew Shafer, executive vp, sales and market development with Elevance. “People are trying to differentiate themselves and there’s a tremendous amount of opportunity in difficult times.” Oehl continued: “We don’t speculate, we keep peddling and keep doing something new. We don’t know when the market will pick up so let’s make sure we’re prepared.”

One major player who had made a fairly last minute decision not to exhibit was ISP. Instead it took a hospitality suite where it introduced its new AVANT institute and concept and explained how it is taking the company back to focus on advanced science with Vincience, the specialist active ingredients business acquired by ISP in 2007.

AVANT is a new unit formed from within ISP’s global personal care R&D and technical service capability, combining capabilities in molecular science, materials science and analytical science with its development resources. It is designed to discover, develop and deploy next generation technology for the personal care industry, taking as its model the R&D efforts pioneered at Vincience with its line of biofunctional ingredients, but the scope is now broadened to include skin, sun, hair and oral care. “We’re taking the best practices of how Vincience innovates and applying it to the ISP polymer business,” explained Jim Mish, vp and general manager of ISP personal care. The expectation is that this will help the company develop faster, more accelerated processes and products. “We’re also working with leading multinationals – we’re becoming more collaborative than ISP has been before,” added Mish. “We’re also reaching out to independent researchers, academic institutes and other organisations in the chemical and biochemical fields.” The company also plans to put an intensive focus on dermatological issues.

New at Munich were two skin care biofunctional ingredients focusing on the mitochondrial health of the skin and expected to feature in premium anti-ageing formulations. Chondricare IS is a synthetic pentapeptide said to function as a mimetic of the protein aconitase while Dynachondrine ISR is a new glycine max (soybean) extract rich in peptides biomimetic to mitochondrial respiratory chain proteins. “Vincience was the first to do sirtuins and now this is SIRT3,” said Joël Mantelin, ISP’s global marketing director of skin care. “It’s not just a quick burst of energy – it’s really working on the biology.”

ISP had actually already paid for its spot on the show floor but rather than a stand there was an ISP lounge area. “We wanted to do things differently,” said Neil Thomas, senior business director, personal care, European region. The company is changing its approach and not going the traditional stand route is part of that.

“It’s quite exciting what they’re doing,” said Richard Hesk, in-cosmetics exhibition director. “They’re looking to create a stir and that will be interesting.” The move certainly stimulated discussion and speculation. So will ISP be at the show in 2010. “We’ll certainly be there,” said Thomas. “But how we’ll be doing that we’ve not yet decided.”

in-cosmetics 2010 will return to Paris from 13-15 April.

www.in-cosmetics.com

IN-FOCUS

DESIGNING BEAUTY ARCHITECTURE

?This year seven ingredient suppliers, two major brands (L’Oréal and Chanel) and three designers and architects proposed concepts around the in-focus theme. BASF presented a very interesting idea, exploring the supporting structure of the skin to design products capable of re-architecturing the skin, defined as the envelope of our identity.

Lucas Meyer had come up with an interesting product, achieved through taking a fresh look at creams by studying the structure and architecture of natural materials and replicating them in the formulation of natural emulsions. Also interestingly, Symrise used fragrance to fire the imagination and the senses – four beauty care experiences provided an opportunity to touch, see, feel and smell the architectural dimensions of personal care.

Soliance embraced electronics in the home, with interactive architecture taking care of beauty and wellness needs, while Stéarinerie Dubois straddled the disciplines of physics and chemistry to examine the structural behaviour of cosmetic second skins. Solabia’s fun project offered CrazySpheres, original skin care pearls illustrating the chemistry of polysaccharides and creating new skin care rituals. And Croda explored the relationship between the components that affect the 3D structure of lip products, investigating the role that additives play in giving additional functionality to such products.

New for in-focus this year, workshops within the in-focus space featured inspirational presentations from Chanel, L’Oréal, the worlds of design and architecture and in-focus participants.

in-focus regulars, Cognis and LS had decided not to take part this year. “Jacques Sebag (in-focus organiser) always wants a high level of creativity and future thinking. We don’t want to give anything away, which we felt we would if we showed our future plans with body architecture. It’s a matter of competitive advantage,” commented Cognis’ Bettina Jackwerth. But expect to see them back at in-focus next year when the theme will be fashion.

INNOVATION & INSPIRATION

?For the second year, in-cosmetics worked in association with research company Mintel to put together an impressive Innovation Zone, showcasing the latest in both cosmetic ingredients and finished products in the fields of protection, anti-ageing, naturals, techno beauty (ie dispensing and packaging concepts that enhance delivery), Tech-Ture (ie merging the practical and playful) and beauty foods.

Mintel analysts were on hand to provide advice and opinion on the products and an interactive display of the Tech-Ture products and beauty food tastings drew a good crowd to the feature. Live demonstrations from Tagra (Tagra Magic), Technature (Shaker Mask) and Cremer Care (Cremerlin) were also staged to draw interest.

Featured Companies

Albea (more information, website)
Health and Beauty Solutions (more information, website)
AAK Personal Care (more information, website)

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