Katerina Steventon asks whether multitasking moisturisers are meeting consumers’ needs
I asked myself this question when giving a talk at a joint meeting of the British Association for Chemical Specialities (BACS) Personal Care Group and the Society of Cosmetic Scientists (SCS) earlier this year. On a professional level, most of the audience would say that the skin care they manufacture meets the needs of the British consumer, but on a personal level, are they happy with their skin?
Facing ageing demographics, the number of older consumers is growing fast and that means an increase in the prevalence of skin concerns. Skin is a visible organ of social communication and research shows that disappointment with our appearance causes psychological distress. Ageing women are paid less attention, making them feel invisible and lowering their self-esteem and there is an increasing pressure at work to look youthful.
So, what are British skin care consumers’ values and behaviour? Market research by Mintel shows that the Brits are less keen to maintain youthful looks compared to the rest of Europe, perhaps due to their more reserved and understated nature. They believe they are spending lots of money on facial skin care, though their spend is less than half of that in France per year; t39 versus t85. The UK retail industry is very competitive and consumers expect multiple purchase deals and discounts. The skin care culture is driven mainly by time constraints and convenience. Long working hours and associated stress, as well as the fact that one in three people are losing weight, contribute to premature signs of ageing. The Brits are looking for a quick fix and more people would consider cosmetic surgery than in other European countries; their quest for immediate results is fuelled by Botox and fillers.
The UK facial skin care market was worth £879m in 2010 and is growing at a rate of 3%, according to Mintel. This growth is positive in the time of recession, natural disasters and the threat of unemployment. It shows that consumers continue to pay attention to ageing concerns in uncertain economic times. About 39% of the facial skin care revenue comes from the anti-ageing moisturisers category. The baby boomers are reaching their 60s and the UK has become fascinated with celebrity, youth and beauty.
When asked what are they looking for in a moisturiser, more than three in ten Brits look for anti-ageing benefits. Green, ethical and sustainable claims are always desirable. Market penetration of face creams is high in Britain; almost nine in ten women use a face cream and five in ten prefer anti-ageing moisturisers. However, only three in ten women use a night cream as consumers don’t understand the importance of night care for skin regeneration. Marketing messages highlighting premature ageing and sun protection as well as the feeling of tightness prompts women to moisturise. Women consider using anti-ageing products from the age of 35 but the 40-65 age group are the biggest users; usage after this age drops considerably.
Katerina Steventon, consultant
There are opportunities in zone specific products, particularly eye care and lip care. Research confirms that facial zones age at different rates and the onset of fine lines and wrinkles happens first in the eye area. Ageing around the eyes is also more evident in older women; our eyes are able to detect a 20% change in skin surface topography. The target consumers for eye care are 45-54 year old women as about 30% of them use anti-ageing eye creams.
When selecting performance benchmarks for multi-tasking moisturisers, it is essential to be realistic. Skin care will never be as effective as surgery but it can prevent the perceived need for surgery in years to come. Advertising references and imagery that mimic the effect of surgical procedures are misleading. However, a well formulated moisturiser should deliver significant physiological effects and visible benefits to the consumer. Research shows that skin care application changes the stratum corneum structure, thickness, water gradient and hydration levels. Matching the efficacy of retinoic acid, the benchmark dermatologist prescription therapy for improving fine facial wrinkles is a realistic target. The British consumer responds well to media advertising and coverage of new product launches. So, even if initially expensive, clinical studies are important in the support of new product launches.
Since Olay introduced consumers to ‘the 7 signs of ageing’, multitasking has been a given in anti-ageing skin care. Bundling as many benefits as possible into a single product is a good strategy in the mass market with a £30 price ceiling. When formulating for premium brands and consumers with more disposable income, products tailored to a specific facial zone or treatment purpose work best. While from a marketing standpoint, the needs of consumers with mature skin appear homogeneous, on a personal level there are many factors that impact on the final choice of skin care products including skin type, climate and seasonal changes, stress, smoking, nutrition, medication and hormonal status.
It is my belief that skin care addressing factors that influence skin at the key milestones of our lives – puberty, pregnancy, 40th and 50th birthdays and menopause are more easily adopted. These are the times of greater self-monitoring and consumers are more prepared to purchase a tailored solution. Promoting education and introducing tools to improve consumer compliance, as done recently by the Garnier Ultralift Challenge, are valuable goals for the skin care industry. British consumers believe in established skin care brands – they favour holistic, sustainable concepts which, substantiated with clinical data, offer an opportunity for commercial success.