Technology – male specifics
While some men are happy with the basics in grooming, others are ready for much more. John Woodruff looks at ingredients targeted specifically at formulations for men
While some men are happy with the basics in grooming, others are ready for much more. John Woodruff looks at ingredients targeted specifically at formulations for men
Data presented by Yariella Coello of Euromonitor at SCS Formulate 2010 valued current global sales of male grooming products at approximately $28bn with sales of men’s skin care currently growing at 12% a year. Driving this growth are new product launches, the acquisition of niche brands by major companies, an increase in salons and treatments for men and celebrity endorsements, said Coello.
According to information from Arch Personal Care the male epidermis is 15% thicker than women’s, making men’s skin more resistant. It has more sebaceous glands than women resulting in a greasier skin with more open pores that are more prone to acne. Up to age 30, male skin is tighter than women’s, but by age 35 it rapidly becomes more flaccid; elasticity of connective tissue decreases and skin loses its ability to lock in moisture.
Despite these differences few papers at IFSCC Conferences or SCS Symposia have investigated the particular needs of male skin, other than the obvious ones of acne and male pattern baldness. A paper by Brandner published in 2006 in the IJCS discussed the improvement in skin barrier function by the topical application of a gel containing caffeine. According to Brandner the influence of androgens, especially testosterone and its effector dihydrotestosterone, results in reduced viability of hair at the scalp and reduced epidermal permeability barrier repair capacity. In this study, 0.5% caffeine in a hydroxyethylcellulose gel preparation was applied on one forearm and the gel without caffeine on the other forearm of male and female volunteers for seven days. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was measured before and at the end of the treatment period. Basal TEWL did not differ significantly between male and female subjects but the application of caffeine significantly reduced TEWL in male skin compared with female skin.[1]
An internet search reveals hundreds of sites claiming to offer advice to men about skin care and even more offering products that will cure everything from acne to old age. It appears that the distinction between cosmetics and medical products gets overlooked when selling on the internet. Of the more responsible ones Boots treats male skin in much the same way as female skin while allowing for its extra thickness and oiliness and the need to shave. It describes the four traditional types as dry, oily, normal and combination skin and the products proposed are not dissimilar to those found on skin care counters for women. Creams with a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of at least 15 are recommended for daily use to protect skin from the damaging effects of free radicals caused by sun, pollution and smoke. However, Boots goes beyond normal skin care and offers a male make-up master class on its website, though the products are more for covering blemishes than for decorative effect.
Male grooming has matured from a simple wash and shave to entire skin, hair and body regimens based on function, simplicity and real benefits. According to ISP[2] men have been using women’s personal care products for years but as social pressures, competitive environments and mainstream acceptance encourage men to look their best, there is an ever increasing desire for their own grooming products. Moving beyond prestige and speciality distribution channels, male personal care has become mainstream, attracting men of all ages, styles and income levels with the launch of several successful mass market product lines.
Bulldog Natural Skin Care for Men is one example of a niche product range that has moved into major retail outlets. With formulations containing significant levels of naturally derived ingredients the product range encompasses moisturisers, face washes and face scrubs as well as shower gels, shave gels and aftershave products. These products appear to be the most popular in male skin care so ingredients to enhance performance will form the basis of this feature.
Shaving Regimes
Wet shaving is still the preferred method with European males and products for it range from traditional pots of shaving soap through creams, oils and serums to aerosol foams and gels. As well as contributing to a close and pain-free shave other important attributes are products that offer skin moisturising, that help prevent razor burn and which minimise ingrown hairs (Pseudofolliculitis barbae). Also required are ingredients that provide emolliency and soothing benefits to calm and minimise skin inflammation.
All shaving compositions are required to prepare fresh hair growth for removal. Traditionally this is done by softening the hair with a soap or surfactant system plus warm water and ingredients to provide extra emolliency or to reduce the irritant effects of surfactants are suggested by various suppliers. Amihope LL [INCI: Lauroyl lysine] from Ajinomoto is an amino acid based organic powder derived from coconut fatty acid and the naturally occurring amino acid, lysine. It offers an alternative to nylon-12, boron nitride and talc, providing extraordinary slip and skin feel to shaving and depilation products.
Crodamol SFX is a patented emollient ester from Croda Europe possessing many of the sensory benefits of cyclomethicone D5. Crodamol SFX [INCI: PPG-3 benzyl ether ethylhexanoate] can be used to enhance the aesthetics of a wide range of cosmetics and toiletries and acts as a solvent for several frequently used organic sun filters to offer a functional benefit in sunscreen products. It is said to add a silky, dry skin feel to shaving products.
Aftershave options
Following the shave are aftershave products. These are no longer 5% perfume in 80% alcohol but soothing balms that restore skin’s natural barrier function and have a calming effect following the trauma of facial exfoliation. ISP recommends Vital ETTM for shaving applications due to its soothing effect, redness reducing benefits and skin lubricity to reduce the burning sensation and skin irritation experienced after shaving. It is a mixture of disodium lauriminodipropionate and tocopheryl phosphates and is incorporated at 3%. ISP also suggests Ceraphyl SLK [INCI; Isodecyl neopentanoate] to provide emolliency and spreadability to shave and post-shaving compositions.
Abyssine from Unipex is an exopolysaccharide [INCI: Alteromonas ferment extract] produced by a microorganism living in hydrothermal vents in the deepest abyssal zone of the Earth. It is claimed to soothe and reduce irritation of sensitive skin, to calm razor burn and improve skin softness. Unipex also suggests Hydroxan CH for additional moisturising of sensitive and reactive skins. It is described as a mix of marine hydroscopic substances with a chitin derivative and comprises carboxymethyl chitin, panthenol and sodium hyaluronate in a base of sorbitol, glycerin and propylene glycol.
Jan Dekker International supplies Gemmocalm for aftershave products. It is an Ecocertified extract from the buds of the blackcurrant bush and has been tested to show a reduction in razor burn. Its INCI name is Ribes nigrum (blackcurrant) bud extract and it is supplied in aqueous/ethanol solution or as a powder. Alp Sebum from AlpaFlor is designed for oily skin and sensitive skin products and in-vivo studies have shown a reduction of size and appearance of pores, a reduction in skin inflammation and a reduction in the production of 5 alpha-reductase. Epilobium fleischeri or Alpine willow herb is a rare Alpine plant cultivated under strict conditions in the Swiss Alps for the production of this skin care active.
Defensil from Rahn is a mixture of octyldodecanol, Echium plantagineum seed oil, Cardiospermum halicacabum extract and Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil unsaponifiables. It is designed to alleviate skin inflammation, redness, swelling and heat and tissue damage and is ideal for post-shave products. Defensil is rich in omega-3 to help reduce itching. The stearidonic acid present in echium oil is rich in omega-6 and helps rebuild the skin barrier while the concentrated sunflower oil fraction helps rebalance the skins key lipid level.
For post-shave products Lucas Meyer suggests Lysosensyl, a solution of lysolecithin in aqueous/glycerin described as a powerful anti-irritant with soothing and calming properties able to reduce the moisture loss effect of surfactant-based shaving compositions. Biodynes TRF from Arch is a live yeast cell derivative created for sunburn relief but also recommended to soothe razor burn. SymCalmin from Symrise is hydroxyphenyl propamidobenzoic acid in glycolic solution with anti-irritant, anti-itch and anti-histamine activity.
An emollient and protective action with a significant soothing effect is claimed for Antiderm from Kalichem. It is recommended for skin that is low in lipids and as a protective measure against irritating external agents. It is a complex mixture of Balsam copaiba, Olea europaea fruit oil, paraffinum liquidum, glyceryl isostearate, palmitoyl hydrolysed wheat protein, potassium cocoyl hydrolysed wheat protein and panthenol and glycyrrhetinic acid and its content of sesquiterpenes, diterpenes and terpenic acids has anti-inflammatory and redness reducing properties while facilitating the healing process.
Healing powers
Wet shaving can result in small razor nicks and cuts which, even if they don’t bleed, are regarded as open wounds and many ingredients are proposed to hasten their healing. Allantoin is one of the original healing aids and is still effective and popular. Cicatrol SB from Greentech is an extract from the micro-algae Porphyridium cruentum boosted with mineral copper that improves skin healing and protects DNA against oxidation by free radicals and ROS. Ajidew ZN-100 [INCI: Zinc PCA] supplied by Ajinomoto helps heal nicks and cuts from daily shaving whilst moisturising the skin and keeping it clear from bacteria.
Dragon’s Blood from Cobiosa is a hydro-glycolic extract obtained from the latex of the tree Cr
