David Haworth talks to IFRA president Pierre Sivac about the European fragrance market and the need for protection of trade secrets
Celebrity fragrances have become such a huge industry that even the Pope now has his own eau de cologne. According to Italian perfumer Silvana Casoli (whose clients include Madonna and the King of Spain), this unique blend reflects the German pontiff’s love of Bavarian forests and their flora and fauna, creating an aura of ‘peace and tranquility’. The fragrance is not for sale, at least not in Pope Benedict XVI’s lifetime, but will remain an academic addition to the burgeoning world of signature scents.
Emerging examples of personal fragrances such as this are just one indication of the rapidly expanding perfume industry. For fragrances alone, the number of new briefs has increased from an average per perfume house of 30 to 40 annually in the 1990s to between 600 and 700 these days. With an annual turnover of $10bn, half of the current business is in fragrances for personal care products while household products make up 25% and the remainder consists of fine fragrances, says the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) whose current president is Pierre Sivac. When he took up his post in January 2011 he approached the position with this expanding market in mind, as well as a novel take on the prospects of the association’s members.