The untold story of Rimmel London’s mascara franchise

From 1860 market disruptor Cosmétique Superfin to 2026 launch Thrill Seeker Mega Lift, the Coty-owned heritage make-up player reveals how it has created a mascara empire that has lasted 166 years in Cosmetics Business’ ‘Untold Story’ series

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Rimmel London is nothing short of a beauty category definer, having built a mascara empire that not only changed the game format-wise, but has lasted for an impressive 166 years. 

The Coty-owned make-up player debuted its first lash darkener, Cosmétique Superfin, in 1860 to meet consumer needs for a safer way to define lashes, and from there it has built a mascara empire that has repeatedly pushed forward innovation to make application and results better.

From the early days of solid block (known as ‘cakes’), to the cream-based and brush-on wand formats and formulas we know today, the heritage player’s influence in the mascara category can not be disputed.

Rimmel London is to mascara what Hoover is to vacuum cleaners

“We believe heritage gives us that credibility, but innovation and constant evolution keeps us competitive,” says Janine Fernandes, VP Rimmel London and Max Factor.

“Our current best-selling mascaras still have deep heritage – our 100% waterproof Scandaleyes Mascara is still among our bestsellers – but then Thrill Seeker, our newest evolution, has done incredibly well.

“This will be how we continue to define the future of the Rimmel London mascara category.” 

Fernandes lifts the lid on Rimmel London’s mascara origin story and how it has remained a successful beauty franchise in Cosmetics BusinessUntold Story’ series.

Rimmel London's first lash darkener, Cosmétique Superfin, launched in 1860

Rimmel London's first lash darkener, Cosmétique Superfin, launched in 1860

How Rimmel’s mascara franchise came to be…

Rimmel London began as a fragrance house in London, UK, in 1834, but quickly expanded its remit into other hygiene and beauty products by the 1850s.

One of the company’s earliest debut’s into this category was Cosmétique Superfin in 1860 – a hair darkener for everything from eyelashes and brows, to moustaches and gray hairs.

It is generally considered to be one, if not the first, non-toxic commercial mascara.

“It was created to replace dangerous, homemade lash darkeners with a safe, affordable and non-toxic alternative,” explains Fernandes. 


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“[At the time], people were darkening their lashes using lamp black – an oily soot from oil-burning lamps – as well as coal, and even some toxic substances, including mercury and lead. 

“So, what really started as a practical, safety-led innovation changed daily beauty routines.

“The biggest challenge we faced was trust, given consumers really did fear eye make-up that was unsafe [at the time]. 

“We focused on a harmless formulation that built confidence and changed perceptions, and this pivot showed Rimmel London it could broaden into that even more.”

We believe heritage gives us that credibility, but innovation and constant evolution keeps us competitive

By the late 19th-to-early-20th century, Rimmel London’s mascara products became so well known that ‘Rimmel’ colloquially became a word for ‘mascara’ in several languages.

During the 1930s to 1950s, the product name Rimmel Cosmétique was gradually replaced by the term mascara, according to company records.

By the 1960s, Rimmel London’s mascara took a leap forward in terms of innovation, with the launch of its first cream-based formula, and offering solid block mascaras until the 1980s.

This was soon followed by the introduction of roll-on and wand-style format mascaras that we know so well today. 

“It has been a constant evolution over the decades for the brand,” says Fernandes.

“From the very beginning of fingertip-applied solids and water-activated cakes, to modern cream-based formulas and the ones that are more typical today, Rimmel London has really led each transition.

“We were also one of the first brands to replace animal fats with early petroleum derivatives, and that was a big breakthrough that made mascaras more stable, safer and easier to apply – it really did modernise cosmetics. 

“The key has always been matching how consumers live and actually apply mascara throughout the stages, so we help create and define those consumer habits.”

Rimmel London's mascara empire is 166 years old

Rimmel London's mascara empire is 166 years old

Making mascara a core brand category

From there, Rimmel London’s wand mascara range has continuously evolved and diversified, which has led to its success – with consumers trusting the brand throughout its many developments.

This includes well-known products Exaggerate Mascara (1997), 100% Waterproof Mascara (1998), Scandaleyes Mascara (2011) and Wonder’Full Mascara (2014), to name a few.

“Now there are brown mascaras, different shades that are more expressive, shimmer shades, and clear mascaras for a more natural look,” adds Fernandes.

“While in one of our more recent mascaras – [Wonder’Bond Lash Filler+Hyaluronic Mascara] – we have brought in a caring ingredient, hyaluronic acid, so it is always really a balance between heritage and innovation.

“We scan new technologies and incorporate [into our franchise] what is relevant for our consumers, because as time evolves, we really need to make sure we deliver what they need – that forward momentum is critical.

“And, as such, Rimmel London really has proven that it has a right to win in mascara.”  

The key has always been matching how consumers live and actually apply mascara throughout the stages, so we help create and define those consumer habits

But it has not only been about the final product, there have been several iconic campaigns that have helped Rimmel London cement its reputation as a master mascara maker.

From launching its iconic ‘London Look’ tagline from the 1990s onwards, to its memorable supermodel era campaigns starring the likes of Kate Moss and Cara Delevingne, the brand has always made sure it tapped into the cultural zeitgeist. 

“Rimmel London is to mascara what Hoover is to vacuum cleaners,” explains Fernandes.

“And there have been so many iconic moments throughout the years with ambassadors and activations, such as the Scandaleyes Mascara campaign with Cara.

“The orange packaging [of the mascara] was super bold and disruptive back during a time when packaging was quite muted across the board.

“The supermodel era we had, those [campaigns] still really resonate very well, and are remembered – the nostalgia is super strong.”


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This cultural relevance can be seen in Rimmel London’s most recent campaign to mark the addition of Thrill Seeker Mega Lift Mascara to its Thrill Seeker Mascara range.

The make-up giant teamed up with Red Bull and five-time All-American gymnast Lily Smith in January on a high stakes stunt, where Smith took the balance beam to new heights during a 90-second routine.

The display saw Smith perform her gravity-defying routine 52 stories above street level in New York City, US.

“It was about how do we take it to the next step of highlighting and amplifying the product innovation of a mega lift in a thrilling moment, and which has a cultural impact in that storytelling which we can leverage through digital?,” added Fernandes.

“It was a very iconic moment… and a very culturally relevant campaign.” 

Rimmel partnered with Red Bull and All-American gymnast Lily Smith on a high stakes stunt for its Thrill Seeker franchise

Rimmel partnered with Red Bull and All-American gymnast Lily Smith on a high stakes stunt for its Thrill Seeker franchise

Continuing to build Rimmel London’s mascara legacy

Mascara remains the number-one category for Rimmel London in the UK market, with 21 iterations of mascara available in stores and shades. 

Time to market for a new variation can depend on the technology, formulation and packaging – the full mix – and this can vary between six-to-18 months in terms of development.

And the momentum to continue to grow its mascara empire is only accelerating.

“From the early reassurance-led adverts – which [were] needed and key for that moment – through to the supermodel era and today's creators and influencers, plus the athlete world, the authenticity now we see is really amplified through social and digital platforms, and that credibility continues in the momentum,” explains Fernandes.

“So, for us, our winning formula is to really disrupt this crowded category with a blend of constant quality products, ensuring cultural relevance, and making sure that we are always evolving with the consumer stages.”

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