Environmental pollutants take many forms; the following abstracts are for compositions that claim to protect skin from the more significant ones affecting human skin and the ageing process.
The following patents provide different methods aimed at achieving these desirable outcomes.
1. Cosmetic composition containing jade powder for blocking blue light
US Patent 10,172,768
Application No 15/576,173
Granted 8 January 2019
Assignee AmorePacific Corp
According to the applicants, blue light refers to visible light with a wavelength of 380-500nm, while light with a wavelength range of 380-430nm is classified as violet light in the blue light spectrum.
The adverse effects of UVB and UVA radiation on human skin are well documented. Now the adverse effects of blue light on the skin have also been investigated, and blue light has been proven to encourage free radical formation in skin cells and to upset sleep patterns.
The applicants claim that jade powder applied in a cosmetic composition can be useful in specifically reflecting light in the blue light spectrum, thereby protecting the skin.
There are various forms of jade; the patent cites Chuncheon jade, which is a high-quality nephrite jade produced in the Chuncheon area of Gangwon-do.
Nephrite jade consists of crystals and aggregates of microparticles having a fibrous texture, and includes three minerals, calcium (Ca), iron (Fe) and magnesium (Mg), all of which are good for the human body.
The jade powder preferably has a particle size of 10nm to 100nm and may be included at a level of 0.05-5.0% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
The preferred composition is jade powder 0.5-1.0%; cetearyl alcohol 1.5%; glyceryl stearate SE 0.5%; polysorbate 60 1.2%; sorbitan stearate 0.3%; PEG-40 stearate 1.0%; diisostearyl malate 2.0%; cetyl ethylhexanoate 2.0%; Mangifera indica (mango) seed butter 1.0%; cyclopentasiloxane 2.5%; cyclohexasiloxane 1.5%; dimethicone 2.0%; disodium EDTA 0.05%; glycerin 5.0%; betaine 1.0%; tromethamine 0.15%; phenoxyethanol 0.4%; glyceryl caprylate 0.1%; ethylhexylglycerin 0.05%; butylene glycol 8.0%; hydroxyethylacrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer 0.2%; carbomer 0.2%; and water to 100% by weight.
2. Anti-inflammatory and antioxidant cosmetic composition containing green tea polysaccharide and Tricholoma matsutake extract
US Patent 8,852,655
Application No 12/700,074
Granted 7 October 2014
Assignee AmorePacific Corp
The progression of skin ageing caused by harmful environments is accompanied by both inflammatory reactions and oxidative reactions, and if the two reactions are not simultaneously inhibited, it will be difficult to exhibit a strong anti-ageing effect.
The inventors developed a combination of plant extracts that can protect the skin from external harmful environmental factors such as UV light and environmental pollution. They found that a combination of green tea polysaccharides and Tricholoma matsutake extract inhibits skin inflammation and skin oxidation to maximally retard skin ageing.
The inventors prepared an oil-in-water (o/w) emulsion formulation and a soluble gel formulation using green tea polysaccharide and Tricholoma matsutake extract, and examined the anti-inflammatory and anti-ageing effects of the formulations.
They developed a cosmetic composition that showed the synergistic effects of green tea polysaccharides and Tricholoma matsutake extract, acting as a direct barrier against external harmful environments by strongly inhibiting the expression of a pollution antenna.
Green tea is a group of acidic polysaccharides produced by the binding of sugar components, made by photosynthesis, with amino acids. The green tea polysaccharides inhibit inflammation, which can occur due to external harmful environments.
The Tricholoma matsutake extract contains vitamins, minerals, amino acids and sugar components, as well as the antioxidant component, ergosterol, which is found only in Tricholoma matsutake, to inhibit skin oxidation resulting from pollution.
The patent describes various tests that illustrate the efficacy of the composition in reducing inflammation and the formation of reactive oxygen species when topically applied to skin.
3. Anti-pollution cosmetic composition
US Patent 5,571,503
Application No 08/510,077
Granted 5 November 1996
Inventor Mausner, Jack
The patent describes a cosmetic composition that incorporates a combination of ingredients designed to provide significant protection of the skin from environmental pollution, while also providing protection against moisture loss and damage due to free radical activity and UVA and UVB radiation.
It incorporates an anti-pollution complex comprising propylene glycol, hydrolysed wheat protein, mannitol, glycogen, yeast extract, ginseng extract, linden extract, calcium pantothenate, horse chestnut extract and biotin. Additionally, it contains a micellar complex comprising phospholipids, glycosphingolipids, panthenol, Crataegus extract, cholesterol and sodium hyaluronate, plus an anti-free radical complex comprising melanin and fatty acid esters of tocopherol, retinol and ascorbic acid plus a sunscreen.
Optionally it may contain aloe extract, Matricaria extract, apricot kernel extract, garden balsam leaf extract, hydrolysed soy protein, horsetail extract and other ancillary components.
According to the inventor, Crataegus extract is believed to exert anti-stress, anti-inflammatory, calming and soothing effects. Panthenol is believed to exert a calming, soothing and protective effect on the skin. Glycosphingolipids are believed to have a powerful hydrating effect, together with the ability to restructure and reinforce the barrier effect to the skin, and improve the cohesion of the corneocytes.
They are also believed to have an overall soothing effect and to exert a protective role against environmental aggression. The sunscreen is a mixture of oxybenzone and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate to provide SPF15 protection.
Antioxidant protection is claimed for retinyl palmitate, melanin, ascorbyl palmitate and tocopheryl acetate. Aloe, Matricaria, horsetail extract and garden balsam leaf extract may be included as counter irritants and soothing agents. Hydrolysed soy protein is said to exert a protective effect on the skin.
Approximate minimal and maximal levels for each of these water-soluble components are shown. The preferred composition is an emulsion comprising the water-soluble ingredients already mentioned plus an oil phase comprising of 20 or so more.
The patent is of interest because of the many combinations of active ingredients included with their levels of incorporation and for the possible claims made for their activity.
4. Composition comprising hyaluronic acid and mepivacaine
US Patent 9,925,309
Application No 15/705,80
Granted 15/705,80
Inventor Teoxane
The compositions and methods of the present invention are useful for treating and preventing the cutaneous signs of chronological ageing induced by external factors such as stress, air pollution, tobacco or prolonged exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation.
The patent describes compositions and methods for improving the surface appearance of the skin using an injectable composition containing hyaluronic acid and mepivacaine.
In the skin, hyaluronic acid is primarily synthesised by dermal fibroblasts and epidermal keratinocytes, and acts as a water pump for maintaining the elasticity of the skin. The ECM is composed of collagen and elastin, water, minerals and proteoglycans. This matrix gives to the skin its turgor and mechanical properties of firmness, elasticity and tone.
With age, the amount of hyaluronic acid and its degree of polymerisation decreases, resulting in a decrease in the amount of water retained in the connective tissue. Meanwhile, ECM components are degraded, mainly by matrix metalloproteinases or MMPs.
In addition, there is a decrease in cellular defences leading to increased damage and disorders induced by external stresses such as pollution. The skin is thus subjected to an ageing process leading to the appearance of defects and blemishes.
The hyaluronic acid optionally has an average molecular weight ranging from 50,000 to 10,000,000 Daltons, and may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked hyaluronic acids, or a combination of both.
The mepivacaine is present as a local anaesthetic. In addition, the composition contains an antioxidant and may contain vitamins, amino acids, mineral salts and a coenzyme, and be presented in a sterile saline solution suitable for administering as an intravenous injection.
