An extensive variety of ingredient launches greeted visitors to in-cosmetics this year. The Paris show displayed new raw materials for skin, body and hair
As we reported last month, Paris was a huge success for in-cosmetics this year. So much so that a number of people have been advocating keeping the event in Paris every year. But organisers Reed Exhibitions are convinced that keeping the show moving is crucial to its success. "We have considered Paris every year but I honestly think rotation keeps the show alive," says Richard Hesk, exhibition director. "The touristy idea of having a chance to see something does make a difference and keeping that spark alive is at the core. Also important is that we are seeing more distributor activity; we are seeing more of them and more of them starting to manufacture themselves. The fact that we rotate helps these distributor effects and also opens up the show to more junior employees."
in-cosmetics 2007 could be summed up as a formulator's paradise, with manufacturers and suppliers showcasing hundreds of novel ingredients and products. Innovation is key to success in this industry and there was plenty on offer to meet even the most demanding customer needs.
Silver generation
One of the trends addressed at in-cosmetics presentations in recent years has been the potential for the mature market. There are about 690 million people worldwide aged 60 years or over, and according to the United Nations, this figure is set to triple by 2050. There is a need for specific products for this age group, particularly as it holds considerable spending power.
This year suppliers answered the call with innovations coming from several leading players. One of the unwanted signs of ageing is sallow skin, and Laboratoires Sérobiologiques tackled this with Syniorage LS 9748, an active peptide claimed to restore skin's radiance and resistance. It acts on two constituents of the epidermis that are primarily responsible for its cohesion, syndecan-1, a small proteoglycan, and collagen XVII, a protein that occurs in the hemidesmosomes. Syniorage LS9748 is a ready to use hydro-glycerinated tetrapeptide solution that stimulates the synthesis of syndecan-1 and collagen XVII.
Actichem and Jan Dekker's product for mature skin, Reservatrox, aims to reduce deep wrinkles by sirtuins activation in aged fibroblasts and keratinocytes. It is an extract obtained from Vitis vinifera cultivated in the Bordelais in France and is concentrated in reservatrol monomers and oligomers, unique factors of DNA integrity protection. Sylvie Mirasole, senior sales manager at Jan Dekker, commented that "after two months of panelists applying the cream, the number of wrinkles decreased by 30%. In some cases the improvement was 77%".
Goldschmidt Personal Care's answer to mature skin problems is Skinmimics, a product that focuses on the protection, prevention and regeneration of skin. The product is a ceramide blend featuring Degussa's newly identified Sphingokines. It is claimed to correct and repair membrane defects of the stratum corneum lipid barrier, supplement the skin's own precursor substances to activate the skin lipid synthesis and stimulate epidermal renewal and repair, particularly
aquaporin 3. Tony Payne, sales manager of parent company Degussa told SPC: "In tests, this particular blend of ceramides was compared on skin above 50 and below 50 years old. The improvement in skin above 50 is greater."
Face values
The skin care sector overall attracted many new innovations as always. Lipotec presented Trylagen, a combination of proteins and peptides that helps to boost collagen synthesis. It targets the effects of ageing on collagen: the reduction of synthesis of collagen, the increase in degradation and disorganisation of the fibril network and the loss of skin's three-dimensional integrity. Trylagen is said to boost the synthesis of collagen types I, III and IV, control collagen fibril dimensions, inhibit enzymatic destruction and avoid excessive collagen damage in aged skin.
Hema'Tîte, the iron complex derived from stone extraction technology, was Gattefossé's central focus at in-cosmetics, with new ex-vivo and in-vivo tests revealing activity that stimulates synthesis of type I procollagen and increases epidermal thickness. The product, billed as an alternative to retinol, was demonstrated on crow's feet to reduce the volume of wrinkles by an average of 13% and up to 75% for some volunteers. Gattefossé was also promoting its patented active Age-Defense2 but under a new application: advanced hair care. A new ex-vivo test on hair locks noted that the product helps to protect the capillary fibres against the deleterious effects of UV, pollutants or heavy metals.
Skin elasticity and wrinkles were targeted by Goldschmidt with a low molecular weight version of its HyaCare product. HyaCare 50 [INCI: Hydrolized sodium hyaluronate] penetrates the skin more effectively to improve skin elasticity and decrease skin wrinkles. It is produced by fermentation of Bacillus subtilisis using an environmentally friendly aqueous recovery process. Studies demonstrated that HyaCare 50 has positive effects on detoxification mechanisms and tautness of the skin, increasing skin elasticity, decreasing the viscoelastic ratio and decreasing skin dryness and skin wrinkles.
The Jan Dekker booth hosted Nikkol's latest skin care development, a liposoluble vitamin B6 (VB6-IP). Vitamin B6 is an enhancer of fillagrin production, said Jan Dekker's Mirasole. "It is also a new concept in Japan as they are much more interested in epidermal care since it is considered to be the first step in enhancing protection." The product is said to show high stability against heat and oxidation, excellent epidermis penetration and high compatibility with other oily materials.
Skin whitening is a market that is no longer limited to Asian countries but has become an essential part of the global face and body care market, pointed out Isabelle Benoit, global marketing manager of Laboratoires Sérobiologiques. The company has answered the market's growing demands with Actiwhite LS 9808, a tailor-made whitener, first launched at PCIA this year, that allows daily use. The product property is linked to a decrease of tyrosinase activity in melanocytes and also to an inhibition of melanosome maturation. The resulting whitening efficacy is said to match the market benchmark and visibly reduce skin pigmentation.
For sensitive skin, Italian supplier Kelisema introduced KeliOat [INCI: Hydrolysed oat protein], a product obtained by enzymatic hydrolysis of non-genetically modified oat flour. A collagen membrane test revealed the ability of the product to protect against the irritating potential of a solution of LES at 0.5%. It is also said to protect the corneum layer against dehydration and reduce transepidermal water loss. Jan Dekker also had an answer for skin sensitivity. GemmoRegule, a product from the GemmoBlasts range of organic, preservative-free bud extracts, is made from buds of the wayfaring tree (Viburnum lanata). It is said to inhibit inflammatory neuromediators, thus regulating allergic symptoms.
Natural activity
Actives for skin care products were in abundance at the show, with companies focusing on natural and exotic ingredients. Natural ingredients have swamped the market in recent years, and the extent of natural products on offer at the show underlines the fact that the current manufacturer and consumer love affair with all things natural is far from fading.
LS' Entielles, a range of naturally derived actives based around five interpretations of femininity originating from five continents, was showcased by Laboratoires Sérobiologiques. The plant extracts are preservative-free and fragrance-free. LS' Entielle Ressource is an extract from the African camphor bush (Tarchonanthus camphorates) that is said to significantly reduce the production of free radicals under stressful conditions, and also provides detoxifying and soothing effects. Detoxifying skin care products, toiletries and spa ranges are among its potential applications. The plant was originally used as a detoxifying treatment by nomad tribes.
LS' Entielle Allure is an advanced extract of lovage (Levisticum officinale), a plant first cultivated in ancient Persia and attributed with aphrodisiac qualities due to its strengthening and energising properties. The product is said to improve the epidermal growth factors supporting the keratinocytes' growth and the synthesis of proteins. Potential uses are stimulating skin care and scalp treatments. Spiked ginger lily (Hedychium spicatum) extract from India is the basis for LS' Entielle Harmonie. The plant's essential oil is said to reduce the release of prostaglandins by stressed keratinocytes and limit inflammation due to environmental stress. LS' Entielle Harmonie is claimed to help the skin cope under stress and is suited to products such as anti-stress skin care and spa ranges. Native to South-East Asia, magnolias with their calming properties are the inspiration behind LS' Entielle Spiritualité. The extract comes from white sandalwood (Michelia alba), of the magnolia family, and Laboratoires Sérobiologiques has demonstrated its potential to repair stressed neurons and help enhance the skin's receptivity. It is suitable for calming or de-stressing skin care, body or hair care products. Finally LS' Entielle Volupté is said to revitalise skin as it has been developed from an Amazonian pepper plant (Schinus terebinthifolius). It significantly increases the dopamine release of neurons so can be used in sensual well-being, body or skin care products.
Mibelle addressed the protection of the skin against environmental stresses such as pollution with its latest launch, Detoxophane. Derived from cress sprouts, this new active contains naturally occurring sulforaphane, which activates the body's detoxification system comprised of two enzyme phases. By downplaying phase I and activating the enzymes in phase II, Mibelle says the active can protect skin cells against toxins, prevent DNA damage and premature ageing and leave skin looking radiant and healthy. "This is a new kind of active for Mibelle and addresses the trend for detoxifying cosmetics," explained biochemistry department product manager, Franz Suter.
Alban Muller also focused on skin stress, launching Reparami, a skin preparing and repairing active made from the prickly pear. The fruit is said to have good ability to survive extreme temperatures and sun exposure and the active is claimed to prevent the effects of stress by conditioning cells to react faster to it. The ingredient also tackles stress on skin by encouraging the skin to stimulate the creation of chaperone proteins. The result is less visibly strained, radiant skin, according to the French actives specialist.
Lipotec introduced a male-specific moisture restoring treatment in the shape of Ion-moist 4men. With daily shaving making skin more prone to irritation and dryness, plus the natural lower hydration levels that are characteristic of male skin, means that hydration of the stratum corneum is essential. This product is described as a molecular film that helps maintain the physical properties of the stratum corneum, such as hydration and plasticity, due to its potassium, sodium and magnesium ions, plus lactate and urea components. Available as an opaque gel, it is claimed to restore the levels of moisture and preserve the natural barrier function of the epidermis. It also delivers a pleasant feeling to the skin.
Sensory benefits
The aspect of sensuality has always played an integral part in skin care formulation, but this year, many companies focused on it with renewed energy. Arkema launched a new grade of cosmetic powder for o/w emulsions. Orgasol Caresse is said to be easier to disperse and brings sensorial properties even at low concentrations. "It is a new way to bring richness to a formulation without greasiness," explained Karine Loyen of Arkema's applications and development service. The emulsifier can be used in creams to provide a luxurious yet light texture, and in lotions such as sun protection where it is quickly absorbed and leaves a soft, non-sticky finish.
Momentive Performance Chemicals, the company created by the sale of GE Advanced Materials to Apollo Management in 2006, also addressed sensory issues, showcasing its new Silsoft E-Pearl emulsion, a new non-ionic emulsion said to provide excellent sensory properties, moist feel, line blurring and skin lightening benefits. The new emulsion contains a patent pending blend of polymethylsisequioxane, dimethicone and cetearyl methicone that can be post-added directly to any skin care finished product to deliver sensory benefits. Silsoft E-Pearl emulsion can be used in a variety of cosmetic and personal care products, including cleansers, sun care products, foundations and body washes. "This emulsion enables the formulator to give outstanding sensory benefits to skin care products with high water content, even when the product contains more than 90% water," said global personal care marketing manager, Beatriz Blanco. "This product's multifunctionality is the result of the unique combination of its ingredients."
Body beautiful
Companies unveiled some fascinating launches for the body care sector. As the trend for cosmetic surgery shows no signs of slowing, many brands have addressed this issue and developed products to mimic the effects of these procedures. Rahn concentrated on improving bust size and firmness with the launch of CellActive-Form, a water soluble active containing mangosteen and an essential cell boost factor that imparts a firming effect on the bust. It is said to work in the opposite way to an anti-cellulite cream, increasing cell capacity and improving skin elasticity. In tests with the product at 5% concentration, the company said there was a 13% increase in bust volume after 84 days of use. "The product is a cosmetic version of breast augmentation surgery, but we have been very surprised by the effects," said Roman Ott, head of Rahn's application laboratory. "There is a significant demand for such products as many consumers are looking for these kind of results but are afraid to go under the knife."
A slimming ingredient that claims to be at least 30% more active than caffeine was highlighted by Jan Dekker. Actichem's Viniferol is derived from Vitis vinifera (grape) vine shoots, which are cultivated in the Bordelais region of France. The active molecule is concentrated in epsilon-viniferin and is capable of activating SIRT-1, an adipogenesis mediator. A test to find its phosphodiesterase 4 inhibitory effect revealed its superior performance over caffeine.
Lipo Chemicals also addressed slimming with Hydrillien 9, a polymeric associative thickener and emulsion stabiliser said to form a clear gel and provide a smooth, silky feel that reduces tackiness and drag. The ingredient is said to be compatible with slimming products and has a particular affinity to caffeine. It is also said to be highly pseudoplastic and forms continuous films upon drying.
Hair features
"Within the hair care market, we've seen an increased demand for products that provide better conditioning and manageability to promote a smooth, sleek look," said Denise Elias, global marketing manager, Amerchol (Dow). At in-cosmetics suppliers were ready to meet these demands with a number of superior conditioning ingredients. From Amerchol came SoftCAT SX Polymers, the final product in the line of SoftCAT Conditioning Polymers that the company first introduced in 2004. The Polymers are said to incorporate medium levels of hydrophobic modification in medium and high viscosity grades to deliver maximum conditioning and deposition performance. The product, which is derived from cellulose, is also claimed to offer superior performance to other conditioning polymers such as cationic guar. It is said to be particularly suitable for Asian or frizzy, unruly hair.
A new conditioning agent was also highlighted by Goldschmidt (Degussa). "The key point with Varisoft EQ65 is that it's an ester quat, so it has much better biodegradability while maintaining excellent performance," said Degussa’s Payne. The ingredient is said to improve detangling and both wet and dry feel and combing. It can also act as an emulsifier for skin care emulsions.
The company also launched Abil UV Quat 50, a hair care ingredient that prevents colour fading and UV damage to hair. The product is substantive to the hair keratin as it is cationic, forming a thin protective layer that absorbs UV radiation. Suitable applications include shampoos and anionic post treatment for colourants with or without polycationic ingredients.
Lipotec focused on delivering actives into the hair fibre with Vecorexin, a type of liposome. Its ability to remain anchored to the cuticle after washing facilitates the penetration of the actives into the deepest parts of the hair. It is also claimed to provide sheen, smoothness and moisture to the hair. Vecorexin should be used in conditioners, milks and lotions for the hair, but is not recommended for formulations with a high level of tensioactives in order not to affect the integrity of the liposomes.
A new biopolymer was introduced by Laboratoires Sérobiologiques. Phytosleek LS 9817 has film-forming properties and claims to have three-in-one functionality: to straighten hair even under humid conditions, to tame hair without a build-up effect and to brighten and soften hair, allowing easier combability.
Rovi was showcasing its liposomal hair growth promoter, Rovisome Hair Growth Serum. The Serum is a combination of vitamins H (biotin), F (linoleic acid), E (tocopherol acetate), provitamin B5 (D-panthenol) and caffeine and in a human study carried out over 24 weeks, it was found to increase hair density by 16.1% per square centimetre for female volunteers and 9.4% for males. It also enhanced the anagen (active growth) state of hair follicles from 73% to 81% in 24 weeks.
Nalco showcased a new water soluble polymer that is claimed to provide superior conditioning performance and a clear surfactant balance. Merquat 10 is a polyquaternium-10 conditioning polymer that forms clear, uniform, non tacky films, as well as increasing foam volume and quality. When used in hair care products, the ingredient is said to improve hair smoothness during washing and rinsing, enhance detangling and impart soft wet and dry hair feel.
in-cosmetics returns to Europe from 15-17 April 2008 when it visits Amsterdam.
In-focus aphrodisia objects of desire
in-focus is the creative platform of in-cosmetics and many exhibitors were this year involved with developing concepts for the feature. "The idea behind Aphrodisia is quite simple," commented organiser Jacques Sebag of Re-Source! who wanted to question classical concepts of beauty. "There is a prevalent trend in advertising that captures people in a narcissistic process. Women are desperate to achieve some sort of ideal, but when they try to achieve this perfection, it's like Narcissus falling in love with himself. Beauty may lie in the sensation of the eye of the beholder but when you're in love with someone, a wrinkle doesn't matter. You also build your identity through emotional experiences and the eyes of others who are completely different from you. Aphrodisia is also about moving forward and growing in self and self confidence through the ability to integrate with someone.
"Beauty is always surprising but you're never really sure what it is that fascinates you. The fascinating thing is not visible - it is an unusual dialogue between the visible and the invisible. It's to do with the fascination of what you can't see; covered skin for example. We decided to question the classical model and re-explore the idea in the beauty industry to free people from the narcissistic process and to build experiences."
A special section at the show was devoted to Aphrodisia, with exhibitors taking space here in addition to their own stands where they could focus on their own particular Aphrodisia concepts. There were some very exciting results, including the following ingredients and concepts.
Symrise sponsored this years' in-focus. As the company's Patrice Bellon commented: "It's a good way of showing our image and an interesting way to show Symrise as a global company," something which he admitted the company has found quite difficult to communicate since the merger of Dragoco and Haarmann & Reimer. "For Symrise it's very interesting as a company with so many elements, so many possibilities. We're presenting different implementations around sensorality. For us the chemistry of emotion could be the next generation of marketing; feeling compared with technical feel. This show is very scientific but this feature adds a new dimension."
Cognis and Laboratoires Sérobiologiques studied the mythology of ancient Greece, trying to imagine cosmetics that would enhance their life rituals and then what formulations could be used. For example, in Mystical Transformation the focus was on god of love Eros and the idea that when the arrow strikes, the body has to be prepared. Products here therefore included tightening body emulsion and firming body wash, both incorporating Laboratoires Sérobiologiques' tightening ingredients.
Solabia served up a whole day of Aphrodisia inspired fare: Passion Pearls (stimulating massage maracuja beads) for breakfast; Caramel Temptation (edible massage butter) for a snack; Happy Hour (erotic, juniper infused smoothing gel) as an aperitif; Irresistible Mousse (with dual tactile effects and an amazing crackling effect) for supper; and Care Me, Care you (containing various erotic actives) as a midnight herbal tea.
And if you weren't sated by now Jan Dekker had organised a romantic dinner with chocolate and kir royale. But the chocolate was not for eating as the cocoa had been replaced with mango kernel butter, which has a particularly low melting at around 30°C lending itself to massage. Meanwhile, the kir is an extract of bud blackcurrant designed to soothe the senses. "As a lab worker it's a great opportunity to see how people react to our ideas and to inspire them," commented Anne-Sohpie Gardes, application lab manager with Jan Dekker.
Laboratoratoires Prod'hyg combined pure shea butter with essential oil and fragrances in massage candles. At around 40°C the candle develops a liquid aspect and this can then be poured onto the skin and massaged. The idea is to offer a complete sensorial experience.
Lessonia explored ginger in all its states - powder, zest, syrup, paste, candies and Japanese shogagari. "It's a good platform for us. All the participating companies have a different approach and are using different ingredients and different textures," said Lessonia's Mallorie Péron.
Food for thought
The cosmetics industry has always taken inspiration from other industries, and in recent years, there has been a growing link between food and beauty, partly due to the popularity in natural products.
Givaudan has taken this concept to a new level with the launch of a new active based on yoghurt powder. Yogurtene Balance is a combination of spray dried yoghurt powder and a natural vegetable based probiotic ingredient that is said to enhance the growth of beneficial microflora on the skin. "This is the first such product based around probiotic beauty and represents a new trend," explained vp category specialty ingredients, Hervé Fretay. "The ingredient gives a cream lather to surfactants as well as skin firming properties. It's a very interesting product."
Zenitech also took inspiration from the food sector for its new lime butter, which is suitable for lipstick, lip balms, sun products and moisturisers. The new butter is 100% natural and has a natural fragrance. "It's the only citrus butter that we know of," said Zenitech's Carter La Vay. "There has been a big reinterest in citrus and there has been a very positive response to this new launch."
Responsible sourcing
The alarming rate at which global warming has increased matched with daily reports in the media about endangered flora and fauna has forced industries to sit up and account for their contribution to this situation. A number of companies at the show have taken this concern to heart and are actively finding a way to reduce the detrimental effects manufacturing has on the environment.
Whetoleo is a new joint venture set up between ARD and Oleon in order to market a new generation of natural, vegetal renewable sugar surfactants based on alkylpolypentosides. These new green surfactants can be used in a variety of applications including foaming products, shampoos, wipes and detergents. "This kind of surfactant has advantages to replace others on the market," said account manager, Philppe Lapeyre. "We are planning to launch a new line made of wheat and wheat substrates which will follow the same ethos."
Brazilian company Beracca also addressed the issues of environment and sustainability with its new range of products derived from the açai fruit. The new line includes a refined oil, a scrub and a biofunctional extract. In addition, the company unveiled an innovative harvesting project where the açai and buriti plants are planted in opposite harvest cycles, ensuring continuous employment for the indigenous families who harvest the crops. "We work with 800 families and this new system ensures a complete harvest cycle for them," explained president, health and personal care, Ulisses Matiolli Sabarå. "We have taught the families to harvest the buriti plant so they now have a continuous income, and furthermore the land is protected from further cultivation."