Autofermentation: A new approach to making cosmetic ingredients

9-Jun-2022

Ashland's new Caressense biofunctional is based on spontaneous fermentation of jasmine flowers. Justine Cotton reveals more about this novel way of obtaining new bioactives

Caressense biofunctional by Ashland is a skin care active ingredient created using a novel process: autofermentation.

Here, Justine Cotton, Global Marketing Manager at Ashland biofunctionals & naturals, reveals what this approach involves and some of the benefits.


Nature is a source of inspiration and the new Ashland autofermentation process is based on this observation. The fermentation process is an ancestral methodology, which allows us to break down nutrients into smaller and more bioavailable molecules thanks to the enzymatic action of microorganisms (eg, yeast or bacteria).

Autofermentation is a biotechnology process invented and patented by Ashland, named phytofermentology, to create novel types of bioactives for the cosmetics industry. For the first time in cosmetics, phytofermentology applies the principles of fermentation to the natural plant microbiome: the phytobiome.

The technology is a 100% natural process and does not require the addition of external ferments such as yeast. The natural microorganisms of a plant, called the phytobiota, are used for the self-fermentation. The flower extract or plant extract will create a perfect fermentation medium: it meets the nutritional requirement for the endogenous plant phytobiota, without the addition of any external microorganism or material.

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