Oily skin is a condition that affects about 35% of both men and women around the world, and despite it having minimal impact on skin physiology, excessive sebum production can cause great discomfort to those affected1. Oily skin leads to signs such as intense shine and dilated pores, while also contributing to the development of acne2. In addition, according to studies, the consequences of excessive sebum have an emotional and social impact on those affected, like feelings of unattractiveness, embarrassment, irritation, and frustration3.
According to Mordor Intelligence, a market research consultancy company, the segment of products for oily skin control is expected to grow globally at a CAGR of 4.8% in the period (2019-2024), driven by the growth of the skin care products market for men and women. Although the female sector still dominates, products for men have been rising at an accelerated pace due to their increasing concerns with appearance4. In fact, when analyzing the global launch of facial care products with an oiliness control claim at Mintel GNPD, the reflection of increased demand for this type of product becomes evident (Figure 1).
Even though the demand for facial care products for oily skin control has been increasing, the vast majority of active ingredients on the market act by inhibiting the 5α-reductase enzyme, which converts testosterone into an even more potent metabolite, dihydrotestosterone, an androgen hormone that regulate sebogenesis5. However, a number of studies indicate that 5α-reductase inhibitors may not be able to significantly reduce sebum production6,7. A new modulator of sebogenesis involving melanortin receptors (MC5R) may have the potential for reducing and controlling oiliness8, since research has shown that MC5R is specifically expressed in differentiated cells in the center of sebaceous glands and that antagonist agents or blockers of such receptors can significantly reduce sebum production9,10. Another relevant point to be considered is that ingredients that act through the 5α-reductase pathway restrict treatment to young people, between puberty and 30 years old, when androgen hormones are at their peak production. From the age of 35 onwards, there is a continuous drop in the rate of free testosterone11, indicating that the cause of oily skin for them is due to a route other than 5α-reductase.
In an effort to provide oily skin control for all ages, Chemyunion has developed a new tripeptide that acts by blocking the melanocortin 5 receptor (MC5R), a regulator of sebogenesis. Peptid4 S-Control is the result of in silico screening carried out on more than 300,000 candidate molecules to obtain the most potent and safest structure proven using in vitro and in vivo tests with immediate and long-lasting results.
- Balances and mattifies oily skin to reveal a natural look
- Ideal solution for both young and mature skin – acts by blocking the MC5R receptor
- Immediate effect – reduces skin oiliness by 15% in just 4 hours
- Reduces sebum production by 30% after 14 days
- Visibly minimizes pore sizes
1. In vitro test
1.1.Lipogenesis inhibitory effect on sebocytes
Human sebocytes treated by 7 days.
2. Clinical trial
2.1.Oil reduction and control
2.1.1. Preliminary study
2.1.2. Final study
- 2.2.Pore size reduction