Hyaluronic acid (HA) has been the skin care industry’s gold standard hydrator for more than 40 years, but now, it might have competition from Pentavitin.
A flurry of beauty brands are now working with this moisture-binding active because it not only draws moisture to skin’s surface like HA and glycerin do, but it goes a step further and actually binds moisture to the keratin in the skin for 72 hours without it evaporating, giving longer-term hydration.
Providing hydration lasting beyond a few hours is where many other excellent hydrators currently struggle – by comparison HA lasts around four-to-24 hours, depending on the formula, according to research.
So, what is Pentavitin, and why all the fuss?
Also known as saccharide isomerate, Pentavitin is a plant-derived moisturising ingredient and its structure is very similar to the sugars found within the skin's natural moisturising factor,” explains Dr Sonia Khorana, GP, Dermatology Expert and Cosmetic Doctor.
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“This allows it to bind effectively to the skin's surface, attracting and retaining water to support long-lasting hydration and skin barrier function.”
Yet, it is not a new ingredient.
Pentavitin was created by fragrance and flavour company DSM-Firmenich and has been around since 2011.
But, it is back in the spotlight because brands are beginning to recognise increasing consumer demand for longer-term hydration, and the benefits that come with it, such as a protected skin barrier, lasting plumpness and glow, improved make-up wear and skin care longevity.
“The challenge for brands today is consumers’ expect more than a temporary boost in moisture, they want skin that remains hydrated all day, with visible radiance and a healthy, resilient barrier,” explains Janet Milner-Walker, Brand Consultancy Expert and founder of Bespoke Advantage.
“As a result, brands are looking beyond a single hero ingredient now, and given hyaluronic acid has become almost ubiquitous in skin care, it is increasingly difficult for brands to differentiate themselves by using HA as a standalone hydrator.”
Pentavitin is a plant-derived moisturising ingredient
Why demand for Pentavitin is on the rise
There is also growing consumer awareness that not all HA products perform in the same way, with efficacy dependent on factors such as molecular weight, formulation and the overall condition of the skin barrier in the first place.
Responding to this consumer demand, Abi Cleeve, Formulator and founder of beauty brand SkinSense, has introduced Pentavitin at 1% strength as the hero ingredient in its new Hydranet Plus skin care range, alongside different molecular weights of HA, to boost the long-term hydration benefits of the products.
“Many of our consumers are starting to ask why their serums feel great in the morning and less impressive by 3pm,” she says.
“Exposure to central heating, air conditioning and pollution means that moisture evaporates, and that is where Pentavitin comes in.
[Pentavitin binds] effectively to the skin's surface, attracting and retaining water to support long-lasting hydration and skin barrier function
“It works differently to HA because once it is locked onto the keratin in the skin, it functions as a moisture reservoir.
“Continuing to attract and hold water even as conditions change around it, until the skin naturally renews itself, meaning hydration can last up to 72 hours, rather than just hours after application.”
Research shows there may be longer-term benefits, too.
One small clinical study revealed that after four weeks use Pentavitin can prevent up to 20% of trans-epidermal water loss, improving the skin’s long-term ability to retain moisture.
Beauty brands such as Glow Recipe, SkinCeuticals, Dr. Jart+ and Environ are already using Pentavitin in some products.
SkinSense has used Pentavitin at 1% strength in its new Hydranet Plus range
Where the Pentavitin versus hyaluronic acid battle will lead
But given that the global hyaluronic acid market was worth US$11.5bn in 2025, according to data by Grand Review Research, and is predicted to grow by another billion this year, could Pentavitin ever be considered a potential replacement for it as a core ingredient?
Dr Khorana does not think so.
“Hyaluronic acid can bind large amounts of water while glycerin is one of the most effective and well-studied humectants available,” she says.
“Whereas Pentavitin's USP is its ability to bind strongly to the skin's surface and provide sustained, lasting hydration over time, so they all do different things and have different benefits.
Milner-Walker agrees with this thought process.
“I do not think the industry's challenge is necessarily to find a replacement for hyaluronic acid,” adds Milner-Walker.
“Rather, it is to find ways to deliver better hydration outcomes and tell a different story around moisturisation.”
Pentavitin's renewed visibility could also be reflecting consumer trends like ‘glass skin’, which has hydration at its cornerstone.
Given hyaluronic acid has become almost ubiquitous in skin care, it is increasingly difficult for brands to differentiate themselves by using HA as a standalone hydrator
“This trend has certainly increased interest in ingredients that can provide deeper, lasting hydration,” explains Milner-Walker,
“It has also encouraged greater focus on skin barrier health, given a well-functioning barrier is essential for achieving the luminous appearance associated with ‘glass skin’.”
Milner-Walker thinks Pentavitin is not, therefore, being positioned as a direct competitor to HA, but as part of a broader hydration strategy alongside HA and other humectants.
“I think the industry’s becoming aware there is some consumer fatigue around hero ingredients that have become commoditised,” she explains.
“Alongside growing interest in skin barrier health, and demand for multifunctional ingredients backed by strong efficacy claims and scientific credibility.”
Given Pentavitin is a branded, proprietary hydrator with a more specific mechanism and often used at lower levels than HA, it can be more expensive too.
“Therefore I do not think we will see brands moving away from hyaluronic acid in favour of Pentavitin”, explains Dr Khorana.
“Rather than it being a case of replacing one with the other, it is increasingly likely more brands will use them in combination to compliment each other going forward.”
Image credits: Adobe Stock.
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