In 2018, the world’s largest cosmetics ingredients-based trade event, in-cosmetics Global, will visit the Netherlands.
The three-day event will run from 17-19 April at RAI Amsterdam and will represent the cutting edge of cosmetic science.
Here, Cosmetics Business provides a synopsis of some of the new features, and novel ingredients and services being offered at the event.
Tulips, windmills, canals, bicycles… and now make-up. This month, cosmetic ingredients will become part of the Amsterdam landscape as in-cosmetics Global moves to RAI Amsterdam for its 2018 edition.
This year’s event will feature several new additions: a series of exclusive ‘silent’ tours focusing on ‘Biotechnology actives’ and ‘The future of anti-ageing’, during which participants can use wireless headphones to hear about relevant ingredients and technologies that are being launched at the show; a Formulation Challenge, during which scientists will compete to create finished products from a mystery box of ingredients; the Boost Your Test initiative, an interactive area dedicated to the subject of cosmetic testing; and a new Pre-Show Regulatory Conference on 16 April.
Additionally, the show will gather approximately 800 exhibitors under one roof including manufacturers and distributors of raw materials and ingredients, consultancies, finished product manufacturers and fragrance houses. In anticipation of in-cosmetics Global 2018, Cosmetics Business asked exhibitors what they would be showing:
AAK STAND L330
To mark its 30th anniversary, AAK will preview the latest addition to its portfolio: Lipex SMP. The highly versatile, stable solid emollient has a sharp melting profile and provides silky-smooth richness with a soft, dry skin feel.
ALCHEMY INGREDIENTS STAND G50
Alchemy Ingredients (formerly Alfacos) will demonstrate the newest addition to its range of COSMOS-certified natural ingredients. Its HIPEgel enables the formulator to make stable high internal phase emulsions (HIPE) quickly and easily. Two versions of HIPEgel are available for high water internal phase (>90%) and high oil internal phase.
AMI INGREDIENTS STAND C300
AMI is distributing Olixol, which are sustainable, high-purity vegetable oils obtained using a unique biotechnological process.
BASF STAND E40
In Amsterdam, BASF will unveil several new solutions for skin and hair care. Replexium is a synergistic complex of two patented peptides that works on various layers of the skin, while Proteasyl is a natural protease inhibitor that is proven to improve skin elasticity on multiple body parts. RNAge rebalances the Let-7b microRNA that downregulates the production of proteins key to building dermal architecture; Hyalurosmooth counteracts the harmful effects of daily stresses on skin; and DN-Age slows down the hair greying process and reduces hair loss. Also new are Rheocare XGN, a vegan stabilising and thickening polymer, and Tinosorb S Lite Aqua, which brings broadband UV protection to the water phase.
BELL FLAVORS & FRAGRANCES STAND P41
Bell Flavors & Fragrances will be exhibiting in the Fragrance Zone at in-cosmetics Global. It will present fragrances and botanical extracts that are either fully natural or based on nature. Among the concepts on display will be a range of completely natural fragrances, five new extracts from ancient whole grains and millet plus fragrance proposals for cosmetics containing these extracts and tree-inspired fragrances for male grooming products.
BERG + SCHMIDT STAND B140
Berg + Schmidt will exhibit BergaCare Smart Crystals Rutin. The product has an elevated saturation solubility and dissolution rate, and both factors significantly raise the biological effectiveness of rutin, which is one of the strongest natural antioxidants.
BICOSOME STAND C318D
Start-up company Bicosome will show Bicohair, a new technology for hair treatment. Bicohair adheres to the hair cuticle via electrostatic interaction, at which point the material’s intelligent structure penetrates the cuticle, delivering active ingredients to the cortex. There are two new variants: Bicohair HP for heat protection and Bicohair UP, which addresses urban pollution.
BRB SILICONES STAND K10
BRB Silicones will exhibit its speciality silicones portfolio. This will include its silicone elastomer range, which has been extended with new references, as well as its dimethicone copolyols – formulation aids developed at BRB’s new Malaysian synthesis plant in Kuala Lumpur. New to BRB’s alkyl dimethicone range, meanwhile, are BRB Caprylyl Methicone, a low viscosity product providing non-greasy skin feel; BRB 2835, which provides lubricity, shine and emolliency; and BRB 2836, a silicone wax that melts upon contact with the skin.
CHEMYUNION STAND H50
Chemyunion will launch three new products. The first, 4MAN, is a natural multifunctional active offering four effects – reduction of excess oil and signs of ageing, as well as moisturising and smoothing – making it ideal for minimalist male grooming formulations. Hebeatol CG, meanwhile, is a broad-spectrum antimicrobial agent. Powderfeel WR, Chemyunion’s final new addition, is an o/w emulsifier that enables cold development with high stability.
Hair conditioning will be a focal topic for Clariant at the Amsterdam-based event
CLARIANT STAND H90
Clariant will unveil new sustainable innovations including a range of hair conditioning ingredients for daily stresses. An especially exciting new innovation, meanwhile, will be a natural plant extract inspired by the 2017 Nobel Prize for Medicine or Physiology that protects cells’ biological rhythm to prevent the appearance of signs of fatigue.
CLR STAND G40
Vitamin D enables water binding in the skin. The new ingredient from CLR, MultiMoist CLR, activates production of the vitamin D receptor (VDR) and potentiates the effect of vitamin D. Immediate and long term moisturising effects have been proven.
COPTIS STAND H111
For 2018, Coptis will present Coptis Tox, a new toxicological database of more than 2,000 substances to automatically generate reports on the toxicological profile of substances in a formula, allowing the user to evaluate the safety of both raw materials and finished products.
CONTIPRO STAND D141
At the Amsterdam show Contipro will launch NanoDeliveryHA, a delivery system based on nanofibres of hyaluronic acid, which can contain higher amounts of active substances than conventional carriers.
CRODA STAND G60
Croda will showcase several new products in Amsterdam, including Kereffect SD, a low-molecular weight, hydrolysed keratin that prolongs the hair straightening efficacy of sodium sulphite for up to 30 washes; Optisol OTP-1, a pollution-protection ingredient for colour cosmetics and tinted skin care; Cithrol PGTL, a water in-oil emulsifier, which is 100% bio-based; Cropure Mango Butter, a high purity butter with excellent long term oxidation stability; and Moonshine, borosilicate-based effect pigments with exceptional intensity and shine.
DERMSCAN GROUP STAND J80
Dermscan Group recently joined forces with Mauritius-based CRO Insight Research. This alliance lets Dermscan Group evaluate products in different climates and on different phototypes at any time of the year.
DKSH STAND H18
DKSH will showcase new launches from its principals. These include Marine Bamboo TG, a blue light protection ingredient from DKSH’s French partner Odycea; NSG Group’s Silky Flake (glass flakes for skin radiance) and Glossy Metashine (metal-coated glass flakes for a soft focus glow); NK-Mat from Nihon Koken Kogyo, a synthetic mica for a deep matte effect; Vinysol 3700 polymer from Daido, which provides adhesive properties with excellent elasticity; and hair care polymers from DKSH’s new partner Osaka Organic Chemicals.
DSM STAND C70
Stress-busting solutions will be the theme of DSM’s booth at in-cosmetics Global this year. DSM has developed a range of ingredients to ease stress on consumers, including Bel-Even, which provides skin with relief from day-to-day stresses and Pentavitin, which acts as a ‘moisture magnet’ to alleviate very dry skin.
DUPONT STAND A11
DuPont Industrial Biosciences will demonstrate the benefits of its new launch Genencare OSMS Pro, a new ingredient, based on osmoprotection, which has been developed to protect the skin from pollution.
EARTHOIL STAND C331
Earthoil has launched a unique range of COSMOS approved WONF (with other natural flavours) solutions that offer price stable alternatives to a number of widely used essential oils. The six variants include ginger, mandarin, lime, peppermint, lavender and bergamot.
Eppendorf’s ViscoTip is recommended for processing thick liquids like conditioners and toothpastes
EPPENDORF STAND J158
To speed up the processing of highly viscous liquids, Eppendorf has developed ViscoTip for its Multipette instrument – combined they are capable of processing liquids with viscosities of up to 14,000mPa*s precisely and quickly.
GATTEFOSSÉ STAND E18
New from Gattefossé and due to be exhibited in Amsterdam is EnergiNius, developed to help reduce the impact of artificial visible light (AVL) on skin. The ingredient helps prevent the mitochondrial network from fragmenting, allowing normalised ATP production, while the mobility and communication properties of fibroblasts are no longer affected by screen light exposure. Skin is reinforced and signs of fatigue visibly reduced.
GREENTECH STAND A10
Greentech has developed Acnilys, which acts on all causes of acne, preventing hypersebhorrhea, limiting the proliferation of P. acnes and reducing inflammation induced by P. acnes or oxidised squalene.
ICHIMARU PHARCOS STAND G90
Ichimaru Pharcos will exhibit its most recently developed item, Chrono Chardy, which enhances the action of the clock genes to maintain the skin’s biological clock and reduce wrinkle formation.
ID BIO STAND L75
ID bio, part of Novacap, has launched Evolu’age for in-cosmetics Global. The active ingredient is extracted from getto leaves sourced from Okinawa island and is said to reinforce the connection between the skin’s structural elements to improve tonicity and impart a healthy look.
IDEA STAND J141
IDEA now offers new in vivo and in vitro tests to establish anti-pollution claims. Two test protocols are available, one for skin care products and the other for cleansing products.
IFF-LUCAS MEYER STAND E20
Greyverse is a new active ingredient from IFFLucas Meyer that acts on the two main factors causing hair greying. The a-MSH biomimetic peptide stimulates the melanogenesis process and reduces oxidative stress in the hair bulb to improve the production of melanin and increase the quantity of pigments in the hair shafts. Also new from IFF-Lucas Meyer is OiLESS’city, which acts as an urban multi-ethnicity sebum regulator.
This year’s event will feature several new additions [including] a series of exclusive ‘silent’ tours focusing on ‘Biotechnology actives’ and ‘The future of anti-ageing’
IMERYS STAND Q110
For use in cosmetic gels, Imerys will showcase ImerCare Opaque, an eco-friendly kaolin product that enhances whiteness and opacity for a creamy texture. ImerCare Opaline, meanwhile, is a premium talc grade. It has a particle shape and size distribution that confers opacity and a pearlescent effect to gels.
INDENA STAND M138
Indena will be promoting the benefits of its Vitachelox anti-blue light active, a combination of grape seed, green tea and oak wood extract with powerful skin protection action.
IN VITRO PLANT-TECH STAND H339
This year, In vitro Plant-tech is launching a powerful new extract from aloe vera plant stem cells that protects skin cells from pollution by decreasing the levels of reactive oxygen species (ROS) in keratinocytes.
INOVIA INTERNATIONAL STAND M10
Inovia International is launching its iBase range of products, a line of off-the-shelf cosmetic and personal care bases in a range of categories.
ITACONIX STAND F330
Itaconix is expanding its portfolio of naturally-derived polymers. RevCare HP and RevCare MC-XD are both COSMOS approved. RevCare HP protects the hair cuticle from damage during hot iron styling, while RevCare MC-XD eliminates unpleasant odours without affecting the microbiome.
ITHOS GLOBAL STAND J130
Software solutions provider Ithos Global will showcase the newly available Global Regulatory Content subscription at its stand during in-cosmetics Global. Ithos Global is also sponsoring the Pre-Show Conference, ‘Cosmetic regulations: Europe and the World’, on Monday 16 April.
KAHLWAX STAND K170
At in-cosmetics Global, KahlWax will introduce 6614 Tea Wax, obtained via mild and eco-friendly CO2 extraction of Camellia sinensis leaves. It is a soft, dark olive-coloured wax with a distinct natural tea scent and flavour.
KLK OLEO STAND E180
Switzerland’s KLK Oleo will demonstrate its ester quats and phosphate esters. Manufactured in Delden in the Netherlands by KLK Kolb Specialties (formerly Elementis Specialties Netherlands), a recent acquisition, ester quats are widely used in hair conditioners while phosphate esters can be used in cosmetics as emulsifiers, cleaning agents and surfactants.
LABORATOIRES EXPANSCIENCE STAND D100
Laboratoires Expanscience will unveil two new 3D model tests on its a-Lupaline antioxidant active ingredient. The first demonstrates that it preserves cell integrity and function by protecting DNA and lipid proteins from oxidative stress. The second shows that it preserves the integrity of the skin matrix by inhibiting UV-induced protease activity.
Lessonia will exhibit its Piece of Nature range
LESSONIA STAND G300
Lessonia has launched Healthyskin, an active skin care ingredient derived from marine glycobiology that meets the ‘well ageing’ trend. The mask specialist will also showcase its Piece of Nature range, a line of blossom decorative products to boost the natural look of formulations in a playful way.
LIPOID KOSMETIK STAND C120
Lipoid Kosmetik is launching two new actives during the April event. HerbaGlow NRG is a COSMOS approved, three-part active using extracts from caper flower buds, white mulberry leaves and rose roots, which boosts the skin’s energy supply. Natipide Eco, meanwhile, is a natural carrier for cosmetic actives. Designed as a pre-liposomal concentrate, Natipide Eco forms stable liposomes when mixed with water.
LUBRIZOL/LIPOTEC STAND C30
Lubrizol will join forces with Lipotec (a Lubrizol-owned company) for the first time at an in-cosmetics event to showcase Lubrizol’s functional ingredients and Lipotec’s actives. Three concepts will be promoted: ‘expect the unexpected’, to engage millennials; ‘a good start’, looking at the impact of diet, lifestyle and pollution on our skin, scalp and hair; and ‘wash forward’, featuring four cleansing formulations that combine convenience, hybridity, wellbeing and sustainability. New ingredients include Fixate Keratin, a thermal activated hair treatment that’s free-from formaldehyde and non-glyocylic acid chemistry, and Fensebiome peptide, which promotes microbiota balance, prevents dehydration and strengthens the skin of those exposed to urban environments. Also new is Lumicease blue ingredient, which provides triple skin protection against UV, infrared and blue light radiation. Finally, a selection of unique botanicals from around the world will make up the Actismart extracts line.
Mamta will show its Triethyl citrate for deodorants, while Omya will present its range of versatile calcium carbonates, including Omyadent for toothpastes
MAMTA POLYCOATS STAND G210
Mamta Polycoats specialises in non-toxic eco-friendly citrate and adipate esters. At the Amsterdam event it will showcase its Triethyl citrate for deodorants, manufactured from nature-derived agro resources.
MERCK STAND Q31
Merck is introducing two ready-to-use mixtures suitable for use as calibrants under the new IFRA method. The mixes consist of different alcohol and carbonyl components that have been individually characterised with their contents determined by quantitative nuclear magnetic resonance (qNMR) spectroscopy. Also new from Merck is its Strat-M membrane, a synthetic membrane for transdermal diffusion testing.
MIBELLE BIOCHEMISTRY STAND E30
MossCellTec No. 1 is the new active ingredient from Mibelle Biochemistry, based on moss cells produced by biotechnology. The ingredient contributes to cell nucleus health, with the nucleus being involved in regulating important cellular processes. It helps skin to adapt to climatic changes.
MICRO POWDERS STAND G90
Micro Powders will showcase Naturesoft 810. 100% naturally-derived from hydrogenated castor oil wax and surface treated with natural jojoba esters, it provides best-in-class dry binding and an excellent payoff.
NAOLYS STAND J40
Naolys is launching two new active ingredients at in-cosmetics Global. EtHAIReal Peppermint is dedicated to hair care; active plant cells from peppermint rebalance oily scalps by decreasing the release (or synthesis) of three key actors involved it the overproduction of sebum. Meanwhile, Healthy Perfection (Vitis flower)2 is a new concept derived from two vine varieties. Healthy Perfection (Vitis flower)2 repairs skin and strengthens its natural defences.
OLVEA STAND H171
Olvea officially began production at its new eco-refining plant in 2018. Equipped with two refining lines, the plant means Olvea can now offer its customers bio-sourced and eco-refined vegetable oils with complete traceability and a reduced carbon footprint.
OMYA STAND A160
Omya Consumer Goods will present its range of versatile calcium carbonates, including its Omyacare range of natural pure white minerals with several particle sizes, Omyascrub for scrubbing applications, Omyaskin for decorative cosmetics and Omyadent for toothpastes.
PRODERM STAND H140
Clinical studies company proDERM is giving attendees the chance to win a full delegate pass to its Claims Support Seminar by entering the draw at its booth.
PROVITAL GROUP STAND G130
The new ingredient from Provital Group is derived from the stem cells of orchids, which enhance communication between adipose-derived stem cells and fibroblasts to relaunch their rejuvenating activity. Called Orchistem, the active ingredient defines and tightens the facial contours and provides a lifting effect on the upper eyelid to rejuvenate the eyes.
RAHN STAND A100
Rahn will focus on two ingredients at in-cosmetics Global: Slimexir is a silhouette-refiner that reduces cellulite, but also has an excellent effect on eliminating eye bags and dark circles. Seboclear-MP, meanwhile, helps balance the facial skin microbiota to reduce signs of acne.
ROLEMI STAND F210
New from Rolemi is an eco-sustainable ingredient for leave-on cosmetics called Celus-Bi Feel. Derived from nature-friendly sources, Celus-Bi Feel is described as being unique among texturising agents because it performs as effectively as standard plasticising powders, but is also readily biodegradable.
SASOL STAND B80
Sasol is launching Cosmacol NII-9, very low levels of which are needed to solubilise fragrances and essential oils in water. Also new are Ceralution ES, an emulsifier and dispersing agent for low viscosity o/w emulsions, and Cosmacol ELI, a multifunctional light emollient with mild keratolytic and moisturising effects.
SEDERMA STAND G60
Sederma will launch its latest innovation, PoreTect, an eco-designed active ingredient that rejuvenates skin texture, smoothing the grain and revealing natural radiance. The company will also promote its keratosis pilaris-reducing body care active Hydronesis.
Seiwa Kasei’s Amitose R-PD is a long lasting moisturising ingredient
SEIWA KASEI STAND H305
Seiwa Kasei’s latest innovation, Amitose R-PD, will be exhibited in Amsterdam. A long lasting moisturising ingredient for skin, hair and scalp care, it is made from a combination of glycerin and arginine.
SHARON LABORATORIES STAND N100
Sharon Laboratories is presenting two new lines of alternative preservative solutions. SharoSENSE Plus is a broad spectrum high efficacy preservative that originates from natural compounds, but is created in the lab. Also new is the Sharomix Amplify line, which offers broad spectrum activity allowing for a lower level of use in finished products (approximately 0.5%).
SILAB STAND G120
Silab’s new ingredient has been inspired by the rich micro-habitat provided by floral nectar. The company studied the floral nectar microbiota – called ‘Nectarobiota’ – of Hoya carnosa (porcelain flower). Metschnikowia reukaufii yeast in this Nectarobiota is said to have a remarkable metabolism, ensuring the defence, development and regeneration of the plant. This will be the basis of Silab’s new biomimetic active ingredient, which will launch in Amsterdam, and which regulates the skin microbiota.
SISTERNA STAND C54
Sisterna will demonstrate the versatility of its sucrose esters with four new pampering formulations. Chocolate-Orange Body Mousse moisturises for silky-soft skin, while Delicate Tinted Powdery Balm is an anhydrous balm with a melting texture and a silky result. Rejuvenating Eye Serum smooths and moisturises the skin, and the final formulation, Golden In-Shower Butter Gel, is a gel-to-milk concept that nourishes skin while showering.
SOLABIA STAND G100
There will be three themes for Solabia in Amsterdam. Solagreen Superfluids Technology is a new extraction method based on the complementary properties of subcritical water and supercritical CO2. It is said to be ideal for the development of exclusive, customised products. New ingredient BlueShield, meanwhile, is derived from the cold pressing of bell peppers and protects skin from the harmful effects of blue light. An in-powder version of Solabia’s neurosoothing Fucogel is also newly available.
The SPC team will also be exhibiting at in-cosmetics Global 2018 in Amsterdam, so please visit us on stand R321
STEPHENSON PERSONAL CARE STAND G322
Stephenson Personal Care will demonstrate its Durosoft range of naturally-derived monoglyceryl and polyglyceryl esters, including thickeners, emollients, emulsifiers, solubilisers and preservative boosters.
STRATICELL STAND J100
StratiCELL has developed a 3D in vitro human reconstructed skin model that efficiently reproduces morphological and functional aspects of sensitive skins.
VERTELLUS STAND P141
At in-cosmetics Global, Vertellus will showcase its Freshstat preservative platform based on cetylpyridinium chloride (CPC). CPC, according to Vertellus, offers several benefits including efficacy versus a wide range of bacteria and fungi, and a trusted 40-year history as an FDA-approved ingredient in oral health.
VENATOR STAND H10
Titanium dioxide and colour pigments specialist Venator will promote its high purity products for personal care including its Hombitan, UVTitan, Ferroxide, Sicovit, Trupure and Ultramarine products.
VYTRUS BIOTECH STAND C318E
Vytrus Biotech is launching two new ingredients. Quora Noni is an active that ‘hacks’ the microbiome communication system to protect skin. Made from plant cell cultures of Morinda citrifolia, it ‘disarms’ bacteria without killing them. Also new is Sarcoslim Re-Shape, which reduces cutaneous lipid content while rebuilding the skin, thereby avoiding sagging.
The Cosmetics Business team will also be exhibiting at in-cosmetics Global 2018 in Amsterdam, so please visit us on stand R321 to find out more about SPC, the other products in the Cosmetics Business portfolio and 2018’s Cosmetics Business Regulatory Summit, which will take place in Barcelona in October.