The three-day event will run from 17-19 April at RAI Amsterdam and will represent the cutting edge of cosmetic science.
Here, Cosmetics Business provides a synopsis of some of the new features, and novel ingredients and services being offered at the event.
Tulips, windmills, canals, bicycles… and now make-up. This month, cosmetic ingredients will become part of the Amsterdam landscape as in-cosmetics Global moves to RAI Amsterdam for its 2018 edition.
This year’s event will feature several new additions: a series of exclusive ‘silent’ tours focusing on ‘Biotechnology actives’ and ‘The future of anti-ageing’, during which participants can use wireless headphones to hear about relevant ingredients and technologies that are being launched at the show; a Formulation Challenge, during which scientists will compete to create finished products from a mystery box of ingredients; the Boost Your Test initiative, an interactive area dedicated to the subject of cosmetic testing; and a new Pre-Show Regulatory Conference on 16 April.
Additionally, the show will gather approximately 800 exhibitors under one roof including manufacturers and distributors of raw materials and ingredients, consultancies, finished product manufacturers and fragrance houses. In anticipation of in-cosmetics Global 2018, Cosmetics Business asked exhibitors what they would be showing:
AAK STAND L330
To mark its 30th anniversary, AAK will preview
the latest addition to its portfolio: Lipex SMP.
The highly versatile, stable solid emollient has a sharp melting profile and provides silky-smooth
richness with a soft, dry skin feel.
ALCHEMY INGREDIENTS STAND G50
Alchemy Ingredients (formerly Alfacos) will
demonstrate the newest addition to its range of
COSMOS-certified natural ingredients. Its
HIPEgel enables the formulator to make stable
high internal phase emulsions (HIPE) quickly
and easily. Two versions of HIPEgel are
available for high water internal phase (>90%)
and high oil internal phase.
AMI INGREDIENTS STAND C300
AMI is distributing Olixol, which are
sustainable, high-purity vegetable oils obtained
using a unique biotechnological process.
BASF STAND E40
In Amsterdam, BASF will unveil several new
solutions for skin and hair care. Replexium is a
synergistic complex of two patented peptides
that works on various layers of the skin, while
Proteasyl is a natural protease inhibitor that is
proven to improve skin elasticity on multiple
body parts. RNAge rebalances the Let-7b
microRNA that downregulates the production
of proteins key to building dermal architecture;
Hyalurosmooth counteracts the harmful effects
of daily stresses on skin; and DN-Age slows
down the hair greying process and reduces hair
loss. Also new are Rheocare XGN, a vegan stabilising and thickening polymer, and
Tinosorb S Lite Aqua, which brings broadband
UV protection to the water phase.
BELL FLAVORS & FRAGRANCES STAND P41
Bell Flavors & Fragrances will be exhibiting in
the Fragrance Zone at in-cosmetics Global. It
will present fragrances and botanical extracts
that are either fully natural or based on nature.
Among the concepts on display will be a range
of completely natural fragrances, five new
extracts from ancient whole grains and millet
plus fragrance proposals for cosmetics
containing these extracts and tree-inspired
fragrances for male grooming products.
BERG + SCHMIDT STAND B140
Berg + Schmidt will exhibit BergaCare Smart
Crystals Rutin. The product has an elevated
saturation solubility and dissolution rate, and
both factors significantly raise the biological
effectiveness of rutin, which is one of the
strongest natural antioxidants.
BICOSOME STAND C318D
Start-up company Bicosome will show Bicohair,
a new technology for hair treatment. Bicohair
adheres to the hair cuticle via electrostatic
interaction, at which point the material’s
intelligent structure penetrates the cuticle,
delivering active ingredients to the cortex.
There are two new variants: Bicohair HP for
heat protection and Bicohair UP, which
addresses urban pollution.
BRB SILICONES STAND K10
BRB Silicones will exhibit its speciality silicones
portfolio. This will include its silicone elastomer
range, which has been extended with new
references, as well as its dimethicone copolyols –
formulation aids developed at BRB’s new
Malaysian synthesis plant in Kuala Lumpur.
New to BRB’s alkyl dimethicone range,
meanwhile, are BRB Caprylyl Methicone, a low viscosity product providing non-greasy skin feel;
BRB 2835, which provides lubricity, shine and
emolliency; and BRB 2836, a silicone wax that
melts upon contact with the skin.
CHEMYUNION STAND H50
Chemyunion will launch three new products.
The first, 4MAN, is a natural multifunctional
active offering four effects – reduction of excess
oil and signs of ageing, as well as moisturising
and smoothing – making it ideal for minimalist
male grooming formulations. Hebeatol CG,
meanwhile, is a broad-spectrum antimicrobial
agent. Powderfeel WR, Chemyunion’s final new
addition, is an o/w emulsifier that enables cold
development with high stability.
Hair conditioning will be a focal topic for Clariant at the Amsterdam-based event
CLARIANT STAND H90
Clariant will unveil new sustainable innovations
including a range of hair conditioning
ingredients for daily stresses. An especially
exciting new innovation, meanwhile, will be a
natural plant extract inspired by the 2017 Nobel
Prize for Medicine or Physiology that protects
cells’ biological rhythm to prevent the
appearance of signs of fatigue.
CLR STAND G40
Vitamin D enables water binding in the skin.
The new ingredient from CLR, MultiMoist
CLR, activates production of the vitamin D
receptor (VDR) and potentiates the effect of
vitamin D. Immediate and long term
moisturising effects have been proven.
COPTIS STAND H111
For 2018, Coptis will present Coptis Tox, a new
toxicological database of more than 2,000
substances to automatically generate reports on
the toxicological profile of substances in a
formula, allowing the user to evaluate the safety
of both raw materials and finished products.
CONTIPRO STAND D141
At the Amsterdam show Contipro will launch
NanoDeliveryHA, a delivery system based on
nanofibres of hyaluronic acid, which can contain
higher amounts of active substances than
conventional carriers.
CRODA STAND G60
Croda will showcase several new products in
Amsterdam, including Kereffect SD, a low-molecular
weight, hydrolysed keratin that
prolongs the hair straightening efficacy of
sodium sulphite for up to 30 washes; Optisol
OTP-1, a pollution-protection ingredient for
colour cosmetics and tinted skin care; Cithrol
PGTL, a water in-oil emulsifier, which is 100%
bio-based; Cropure Mango Butter, a high purity
butter with excellent long term oxidation
stability; and Moonshine, borosilicate-based effect
pigments with exceptional intensity and shine.
DERMSCAN GROUP STAND J80
Dermscan Group recently joined forces with
Mauritius-based CRO Insight Research. This
alliance lets Dermscan Group evaluate products
in different climates and on different phototypes
at any time of the year.
DKSH STAND H18
DKSH will showcase new launches from its
principals. These include Marine Bamboo TG, a
blue light protection ingredient from DKSH’s
French partner Odycea; NSG Group’s Silky
Flake (glass flakes for skin radiance) and Glossy
Metashine (metal-coated glass flakes for a soft
focus glow); NK-Mat from Nihon Koken Kogyo,
a synthetic mica for a deep matte effect; Vinysol
3700 polymer from Daido, which provides
adhesive properties with excellent elasticity; and
hair care polymers from DKSH’s new partner
Osaka Organic Chemicals.
DSM STAND C70
Stress-busting solutions will be the theme of
DSM’s booth at in-cosmetics Global this year.
DSM has developed a range of ingredients to
ease stress on consumers, including Bel-Even,
which provides skin with relief from day-to-day
stresses and Pentavitin, which acts as a ‘moisture
magnet’ to alleviate very dry skin.
DUPONT STAND A11
DuPont Industrial Biosciences will demonstrate
the benefits of its new launch Genencare OSMS
Pro, a new ingredient, based on
osmoprotection, which has been developed to
protect the skin from pollution.
EARTHOIL STAND C331
Earthoil has launched a unique range of
COSMOS approved WONF (with other natural
flavours) solutions that offer price stable
alternatives to a number of widely used essential
oils. The six variants include ginger, mandarin,
lime, peppermint, lavender and bergamot.
Eppendorf’s ViscoTip is recommended for processing thick liquids like conditioners and toothpastes
EPPENDORF STAND J158
To speed up the processing of highly viscous
liquids, Eppendorf has developed ViscoTip for
its Multipette instrument – combined they are
capable of processing liquids with viscosities of
up to 14,000mPa*s precisely and quickly.
GATTEFOSSÉ STAND E18
New from Gattefossé and due to be exhibited in
Amsterdam is EnergiNius, developed to help
reduce the impact of artificial visible light (AVL)
on skin. The ingredient helps prevent the
mitochondrial network from fragmenting,
allowing normalised ATP production, while the
mobility and communication properties of
fibroblasts are no longer affected by screen light
exposure. Skin is reinforced and signs of fatigue
visibly reduced.
GREENTECH STAND A10
Greentech has developed Acnilys, which acts on
all causes of acne, preventing hypersebhorrhea,
limiting the proliferation of P. acnes and reducing
inflammation induced by P. acnes or oxidised
squalene.
ICHIMARU PHARCOS STAND G90
Ichimaru Pharcos will exhibit its most recently
developed item, Chrono Chardy, which
enhances the action of the clock genes to
maintain the skin’s biological clock and reduce
wrinkle formation.
ID BIO STAND L75
ID bio, part of Novacap, has launched Evolu’age
for in-cosmetics Global. The active ingredient is
extracted from getto leaves sourced from
Okinawa island and is said to reinforce the
connection between the skin’s structural
elements to improve tonicity and impart a
healthy look.
IDEA STAND J141
IDEA now offers new in vivo and in vitro tests to
establish anti-pollution claims. Two test
protocols are available, one for skin care
products and the other for cleansing products.
IFF-LUCAS MEYER STAND E20
Greyverse is a new active ingredient from IFFLucas
Meyer that acts on the two main factors
causing hair greying. The a-MSH biomimetic
peptide stimulates the melanogenesis process and
reduces oxidative stress in the hair bulb to
improve the production of melanin and increase
the quantity of pigments in the hair shafts. Also
new from IFF-Lucas Meyer is OiLESS’city, which
acts as an urban multi-ethnicity sebum regulator.
This year’s event will feature several new additions [including] a series of exclusive ‘silent’ tours focusing on ‘Biotechnology actives’ and ‘The future of anti-ageing’
IMERYS STAND Q110
For use in cosmetic gels, Imerys will showcase
ImerCare Opaque, an eco-friendly kaolin product that enhances whiteness and opacity for
a creamy texture. ImerCare Opaline, meanwhile,
is a premium talc grade. It has a particle shape
and size distribution that confers opacity and a
pearlescent effect to gels.
INDENA STAND M138
Indena will be promoting the benefits of its
Vitachelox anti-blue light active, a combination of
grape seed, green tea and oak wood extract with
powerful skin protection action.
IN VITRO PLANT-TECH STAND H339
This year, In vitro Plant-tech is launching a
powerful new extract from aloe vera plant stem
cells that protects skin cells from pollution by
decreasing the levels of reactive oxygen species
(ROS) in keratinocytes.
INOVIA INTERNATIONAL STAND M10
Inovia International is launching its iBase range
of products, a line of off-the-shelf cosmetic and
personal care bases in a range of categories.
ITACONIX STAND F330
Itaconix is expanding its portfolio of naturally-derived
polymers. RevCare HP and RevCare
MC-XD are both COSMOS approved. RevCare
HP protects the hair cuticle from damage
during hot iron styling, while RevCare MC-XD
eliminates unpleasant odours without affecting
the microbiome.
ITHOS GLOBAL STAND J130
Software solutions provider Ithos Global will
showcase the newly available Global Regulatory
Content subscription at its stand during in-cosmetics
Global. Ithos Global is also sponsoring
the Pre-Show Conference, ‘Cosmetic regulations:
Europe and the World’, on Monday 16 April.
KAHLWAX STAND K170
At in-cosmetics Global, KahlWax will introduce
6614 Tea Wax, obtained via mild and eco-friendly
CO2 extraction of Camellia sinensis
leaves. It is a soft, dark olive-coloured wax with
a distinct natural tea scent and flavour.
KLK OLEO STAND E180
Switzerland’s KLK Oleo will demonstrate its
ester quats and phosphate esters. Manufactured in Delden in the Netherlands by KLK Kolb
Specialties (formerly Elementis Specialties
Netherlands), a recent acquisition, ester quats
are widely used in hair conditioners while
phosphate esters can be used in cosmetics as
emulsifiers, cleaning agents and surfactants.
LABORATOIRES EXPANSCIENCE STAND D100
Laboratoires Expanscience will unveil two new
3D model tests on its a-Lupaline antioxidant
active ingredient. The first demonstrates that it
preserves cell integrity and function by
protecting DNA and lipid proteins from
oxidative stress. The second shows that it
preserves the integrity of the skin matrix by
inhibiting UV-induced protease activity.
Lessonia will exhibit its Piece of Nature range
LESSONIA STAND G300
Lessonia has launched Healthyskin, an active
skin care ingredient derived from marine
glycobiology that meets the ‘well ageing’ trend.
The mask specialist will also showcase its Piece
of Nature range, a line of blossom decorative
products to boost the natural look of
formulations in a playful way.
LIPOID KOSMETIK STAND C120
Lipoid Kosmetik is launching two new actives
during the April event. HerbaGlow NRG is a
COSMOS approved, three-part active using
extracts from caper flower buds, white mulberry
leaves and rose roots, which boosts the skin’s
energy supply. Natipide Eco, meanwhile, is a
natural carrier for cosmetic actives. Designed as
a pre-liposomal concentrate, Natipide Eco forms
stable liposomes when mixed with water.
LUBRIZOL/LIPOTEC STAND C30
Lubrizol will join forces with Lipotec (a
Lubrizol-owned company) for the first time at
an in-cosmetics event to showcase Lubrizol’s
functional ingredients and Lipotec’s actives.
Three concepts will be promoted: ‘expect the
unexpected’, to engage millennials; ‘a good
start’, looking at the impact of diet, lifestyle and
pollution on our skin, scalp and hair; and ‘wash
forward’, featuring four cleansing formulations
that combine convenience, hybridity, wellbeing
and sustainability. New ingredients include
Fixate Keratin, a thermal activated hair
treatment that’s free-from formaldehyde and
non-glyocylic acid
chemistry, and Fensebiome
peptide, which promotes
microbiota balance,
prevents dehydration and
strengthens the skin of
those exposed to urban
environments. Also new is
Lumicease blue ingredient,
which provides triple skin
protection against UV, infrared and blue light radiation. Finally, a
selection of unique botanicals from around the
world will make up the Actismart extracts line.
Mamta will show its Triethyl citrate for deodorants, while Omya will present its range of versatile calcium carbonates, including Omyadent for toothpastes
MAMTA POLYCOATS STAND G210
Mamta Polycoats specialises in non-toxic
eco-friendly citrate and adipate esters. At the
Amsterdam event it will showcase its Triethyl
citrate for deodorants, manufactured from
nature-derived agro resources.
MERCK STAND Q31
Merck is introducing two ready-to-use mixtures
suitable for use as calibrants under the new IFRA
method. The mixes consist of different alcohol
and carbonyl components that have been
individually characterised with their contents
determined by quantitative nuclear magnetic
resonance (qNMR) spectroscopy. Also new from
Merck is its Strat-M membrane, a synthetic
membrane for transdermal diffusion testing.
MIBELLE BIOCHEMISTRY STAND E30
MossCellTec No. 1 is the new active ingredient
from Mibelle Biochemistry, based on moss cells
produced by biotechnology. The ingredient
contributes to cell nucleus health, with the
nucleus being involved in regulating important
cellular processes. It helps skin to adapt to
climatic changes.
MICRO POWDERS STAND G90
Micro Powders will showcase Naturesoft 810.
100% naturally-derived from hydrogenated
castor oil wax and surface treated with natural
jojoba esters, it provides best-in-class dry
binding and an excellent payoff.
NAOLYS STAND J40
Naolys is launching two new active ingredients
at in-cosmetics Global. EtHAIReal Peppermint is
dedicated to hair care; active plant cells from
peppermint rebalance oily scalps by decreasing
the release (or synthesis) of three key actors involved it the overproduction of sebum.
Meanwhile, Healthy Perfection (Vitis flower)2 is
a new concept derived from two vine varieties.
Healthy Perfection (Vitis flower)2 repairs skin
and strengthens its natural defences.
OLVEA STAND H171
Olvea officially began production at its new eco-refining
plant in 2018. Equipped with two
refining lines, the plant means Olvea can now
offer its customers bio-sourced and eco-refined
vegetable oils with complete traceability and a
reduced carbon footprint.
OMYA STAND A160
Omya Consumer Goods will present its range of
versatile calcium carbonates, including its
Omyacare range of natural pure white minerals
with several particle sizes, Omyascrub for
scrubbing applications, Omyaskin for decorative
cosmetics and Omyadent for toothpastes.
PRODERM STAND H140
Clinical studies company proDERM is giving
attendees the chance to win a full delegate pass
to its Claims Support Seminar by entering the
draw at its booth.
PROVITAL GROUP STAND G130
The new ingredient from Provital Group is
derived from the stem cells of orchids, which
enhance communication between adipose-derived
stem cells and fibroblasts to relaunch
their rejuvenating activity. Called Orchistem, the
active ingredient defines and tightens the facial
contours and provides a lifting effect on the
upper eyelid to rejuvenate the eyes.
RAHN STAND A100
Rahn will focus on two ingredients at in-cosmetics
Global: Slimexir is a silhouette-refiner
that reduces cellulite, but also has an excellent
effect on eliminating eye bags and dark circles.
Seboclear-MP, meanwhile, helps balance the
facial skin microbiota to reduce signs of acne.
ROLEMI STAND F210
New from Rolemi is an eco-sustainable
ingredient for leave-on cosmetics called Celus-Bi
Feel. Derived from nature-friendly sources,
Celus-Bi Feel is described as being unique among
texturising agents because it performs as
effectively as standard plasticising powders, but is
also readily biodegradable.
SASOL STAND B80
Sasol is launching Cosmacol NII-9, very low
levels of which are needed to solubilise
fragrances and essential oils in water. Also new
are Ceralution ES, an emulsifier and dispersing
agent for low viscosity o/w emulsions, and
Cosmacol ELI, a multifunctional light emollient
with mild keratolytic and moisturising effects.
SEDERMA STAND G60
Sederma will launch its latest innovation,
PoreTect, an eco-designed active ingredient that
rejuvenates skin texture, smoothing the grain
and revealing natural radiance. The company
will also promote its keratosis pilaris-reducing
body care active Hydronesis.
Seiwa Kasei’s Amitose R-PD is a long lasting moisturising ingredient
SEIWA KASEI STAND H305
Seiwa Kasei’s latest innovation, Amitose R-PD,
will be exhibited in Amsterdam. A long lasting
moisturising ingredient for skin, hair and scalp
care, it is made from a combination of glycerin
and arginine.
SHARON LABORATORIES STAND N100
Sharon Laboratories is presenting two new lines
of alternative preservative solutions.
SharoSENSE Plus is a broad spectrum high
efficacy preservative that originates from natural
compounds, but is created in the lab. Also new
is the Sharomix Amplify line, which offers broad
spectrum activity allowing for a lower level of
use in finished products (approximately 0.5%).
SILAB STAND G120
Silab’s new ingredient has been inspired by the
rich micro-habitat provided by floral nectar. The
company studied the floral nectar microbiota –
called ‘Nectarobiota’ – of Hoya carnosa (porcelain
flower). Metschnikowia reukaufii yeast in this
Nectarobiota is said to have a remarkable
metabolism, ensuring the defence, development
and regeneration of the plant. This will be the
basis of Silab’s new biomimetic active ingredient,
which will launch in Amsterdam, and which
regulates the skin microbiota.
SISTERNA STAND C54
Sisterna will demonstrate the versatility of its
sucrose esters with four new pampering
formulations. Chocolate-Orange Body Mousse
moisturises for silky-soft skin, while Delicate
Tinted Powdery Balm is an anhydrous balm
with a melting texture and a silky result.
Rejuvenating Eye Serum smooths and
moisturises the skin, and the final formulation, Golden In-Shower Butter Gel, is a gel-to-milk
concept that nourishes skin while showering.
SOLABIA STAND G100
There will be three themes for Solabia in
Amsterdam. Solagreen Superfluids Technology is
a new extraction method based on the
complementary properties of subcritical water
and supercritical CO2. It is said to be ideal for the
development of exclusive, customised products.
New ingredient BlueShield, meanwhile, is
derived from the cold pressing of bell peppers
and protects skin from the harmful effects of blue
light. An in-powder version of Solabia’s neurosoothing
Fucogel is also newly available.
The SPC team will also be exhibiting at in-cosmetics Global 2018 in Amsterdam, so please visit us on stand R321
STEPHENSON PERSONAL CARE STAND G322
Stephenson Personal Care will demonstrate its
Durosoft range of naturally-derived
monoglyceryl and polyglyceryl esters, including
thickeners, emollients, emulsifiers, solubilisers
and preservative boosters.
STRATICELL STAND J100
StratiCELL has developed a 3D in vitro human
reconstructed skin model that efficiently
reproduces morphological and functional
aspects of sensitive skins.
VERTELLUS STAND P141
At in-cosmetics Global, Vertellus will showcase
its Freshstat preservative platform based on
cetylpyridinium chloride (CPC). CPC, according
to Vertellus, offers several benefits including
efficacy versus a wide range of bacteria and
fungi, and a trusted 40-year history as an FDA-approved
ingredient in oral health.
VENATOR STAND H10
Titanium dioxide and colour pigments specialist
Venator will promote its high purity products
for personal care including its Hombitan, UVTitan,
Ferroxide, Sicovit, Trupure and
Ultramarine products.
VYTRUS BIOTECH STAND C318E
Vytrus Biotech is launching two new
ingredients. Quora Noni is an active that ‘hacks’
the microbiome communication system to
protect skin. Made from plant cell cultures of
Morinda citrifolia, it ‘disarms’ bacteria without
killing them. Also new is Sarcoslim Re-Shape,
which reduces cutaneous lipid content while
rebuilding the skin, thereby avoiding sagging.
The Cosmetics Business team will also be exhibiting at in-cosmetics Global 2018 in Amsterdam, so please visit us on stand R321 to find out more about SPC, the other products in the Cosmetics Business portfolio and 2018’s Cosmetics Business Regulatory Summit, which will take place in Barcelona in October.
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- See also:
- Croda
- Solabia Group
- Greentech
- Naolys
- Silab
- BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH
- Lucas Meyer Cosmetics
- Rahn
- Micro Powders Inc
- Seiwa Kasei
- Chemyunion
- Stephenson
- Alchemy Ingredients
- BRB Silicones
- Omya International
- DuPont
- Sederma
- Dermscan Group
- DKSH Performance Materials
- Vertellus Specialties
- Imerys
- Sasol
- Contipro Group
- in-cosmetics
- CLR - Chemisches Laboratorium Dr Kurt Richter
- SGS proderm
- dsm-firmenich
- OLVEA Vegetable Oils
- Sharon Laboratories
- Sisterna BV
- AAK Personal Care
- Coptis
- Straticell SA/NV
- Bell Flavors and Fragrances
- SGS IDEA
- Univar Solutions
- Berg + Schmidt GmbH and Co. KG
- Merck Electronics KGaA
- Mamta Polycoats
- Vytrus Biotech
- Seqens
- Bicosome
- Venator Corporation
